Hydrolock recovery help
#16
09-26-2011, 07:18 PM
I don't think a code will help that much in finding out what's wrong internally. It's mostly a result of something else. ie... if the cylider's rings/valve is bad, it might be screwing with the 02 sensors, or making it idle below spec, or 2-3 other things. There's no sensor for a bent rod, broken rings or a bent valve.
#17
09-26-2011, 07:21 PM
Codes are ALWAYS helpful in diangosing issues. If there is a spun bearing, bent rod, etc there will be a code.
All codes help to diagnose.
My buddy had a piston break and it was throwing random multiple misfire as well as other codes.
To the OP - you should consider changing the oil again in a relatively short period of time if the motor is ok. Its better to make sure there is no water in there.
All codes help to diagnose.
My buddy had a piston break and it was throwing random multiple misfire as well as other codes.
To the OP - you should consider changing the oil again in a relatively short period of time if the motor is ok. Its better to make sure there is no water in there.
#18
09-26-2011, 07:24 PM
My old maxima didn't throw a code when it gave up the ghost. It was obd1 though.
On internal problems, codes aren't directly related to the problem. slightly related.
If you buddy was running on a completely broken piston, I'd think the racket of broken piston pieces would clue you in more than a multiple misfire (which could be the coil pack, broken plug etc.)
On internal problems, codes aren't directly related to the problem. slightly related.
If you buddy was running on a completely broken piston, I'd think the racket of broken piston pieces would clue you in more than a multiple misfire (which could be the coil pack, broken plug etc.)
#19
09-26-2011, 07:29 PM
OBD 1 and OBDII are very different
Of course we heard the knock, and from using a long metal piece we were able to ascertain the problem was in the bottom end. It wasn't completely busted up, just one side of the top of the piston had broken off.
I'm just stating a way to get the ECU fault codes. If you don't start with getting the fault codes you may end up chasing the wrong problem. It would be foolish to rule them out as a viable option for checking problems.
Of course we heard the knock, and from using a long metal piece we were able to ascertain the problem was in the bottom end. It wasn't completely busted up, just one side of the top of the piston had broken off.
I'm just stating a way to get the ECU fault codes. If you don't start with getting the fault codes you may end up chasing the wrong problem. It would be foolish to rule them out as a viable option for checking problems.
#20
09-26-2011, 07:34 PM
obd1 and obd2 aren't that different in this discussion. None of them really give you great clues as to what is broken internally. The biggest diff inbetween obd1 and 2 is the common protocalls that the Gov't required. And CanBus in 2007 or so.
I'm not ruling out codes, just saying they play a small part to finding the problem. A better clue is oil consumption. A spun bearing or a broken ring will start making the motor use ALOT of oil before it finally gives up.
I'm not ruling out codes, just saying they play a small part to finding the problem. A better clue is oil consumption. A spun bearing or a broken ring will start making the motor use ALOT of oil before it finally gives up.
#21
09-26-2011, 07:38 PM
#22
09-26-2011, 07:45 PM
Tell me, in what ways as it pertains to this is obd1 and obd2 different?
I'm not being an azz, it's you that's putting a higher priority on the codes than I think is due. I didn't say codes don't count, I say they wouldn't help as much as you think.
What codes usually show up for a spun bearing or a bent rod?
I'm not being an azz, it's you that's putting a higher priority on the codes than I think is due. I didn't say codes don't count, I say they wouldn't help as much as you think.
What codes usually show up for a spun bearing or a bent rod?
#23
09-26-2011, 07:51 PM
For reference: When you do the gas pedal procedure, the blinking lights will tell you the fault code that is being kicked.
Turn Ignition on: wait 3 seconds
Fully depress and release gas pedal 5 times within 5 seconds.
Wait 7 seconds: then hold gas pedal down for 10 seconds
At this time the SERVICE ENGINE SOON light will begin blinking. The first series of blinks will be 1 second apart. 10 = 0.
The subsequent 3 series of blinks will be .5 sec apart
Count them and write them down as you go. It will repeat the blinks over and over until you turn off the ignition. If you have more than 1 code stored it will cylce through them 1 at a time. The first digit is always denoted by the 1 second interval blinks(slow) and the following 3 digits are 1/2 second long(fast).
Hope this helps in the even that you cant get to Checker/Autozone/Etc right away.
As always, using a stopwatch/clock to keep track of the time is the best way to be successful at entering the ECU diagnostics.
Side Note: If after counting/writing down the stored fault codes you want to reset the ECU, do not turn the ignition off just yet. Press the gas pedal down and hold it for 10 seconds. Then turn it off. The ECU will be reset.
Turn Ignition on: wait 3 seconds
Fully depress and release gas pedal 5 times within 5 seconds.
Wait 7 seconds: then hold gas pedal down for 10 seconds
At this time the SERVICE ENGINE SOON light will begin blinking. The first series of blinks will be 1 second apart. 10 = 0.
The subsequent 3 series of blinks will be .5 sec apart
Count them and write them down as you go. It will repeat the blinks over and over until you turn off the ignition. If you have more than 1 code stored it will cylce through them 1 at a time. The first digit is always denoted by the 1 second interval blinks(slow) and the following 3 digits are 1/2 second long(fast).
Hope this helps in the even that you cant get to Checker/Autozone/Etc right away.
As always, using a stopwatch/clock to keep track of the time is the best way to be successful at entering the ECU diagnostics.
Side Note: If after counting/writing down the stored fault codes you want to reset the ECU, do not turn the ignition off just yet. Press the gas pedal down and hold it for 10 seconds. Then turn it off. The ECU will be reset.
#26
09-26-2011, 10:51 PM
Update for the evening:
Got a code reader - cylinder 4 misfire & random multiple cylinder misfire.
Change the oil two more times, looks like good synthetic oil going through it now, and I've got about 15 quarts of 5w30 chocolate milk to dispose of now.
Drove the car about 5 miles to the shop doing the repairs, felt practically normal, but I never got on it at all, very gentle driving, but again - it felt fine at 45mph, not lacking in power or anything. Water continued to come out of the exhaust, as reported by my trail vehicle, and when stopped I could see vapor coming out of the exhaust. I cannot tell whether this was just water in the exhaust evaporating or if it was coolant. It didn't smell sweet to me, but I've never had a good nose for coolant.
The noise definitely sounded like it was coming from the upper half of the engine, but I couldn't find my auto stethoscope or long screwdriver to really check, and as I was taking it to a shop regardless, I felt I'd let them do the diagnosis.
Got a code reader - cylinder 4 misfire & random multiple cylinder misfire.
Change the oil two more times, looks like good synthetic oil going through it now, and I've got about 15 quarts of 5w30 chocolate milk to dispose of now.
Drove the car about 5 miles to the shop doing the repairs, felt practically normal, but I never got on it at all, very gentle driving, but again - it felt fine at 45mph, not lacking in power or anything. Water continued to come out of the exhaust, as reported by my trail vehicle, and when stopped I could see vapor coming out of the exhaust. I cannot tell whether this was just water in the exhaust evaporating or if it was coolant. It didn't smell sweet to me, but I've never had a good nose for coolant.
The noise definitely sounded like it was coming from the upper half of the engine, but I couldn't find my auto stethoscope or long screwdriver to really check, and as I was taking it to a shop regardless, I felt I'd let them do the diagnosis.
#27
09-27-2011, 01:23 AM
#28
09-27-2011, 08:14 AM
I'm hoping the shop can give me a diagnosis today. They are an authorized Jasper remanufactured engine seller, so I might consider doing that method, as they come with a 3 year/100,000 mile warranty. Not sure on price, but it easily looks like $4k+ installed. I might be able to get a stronger rebuild for that price, but wouldn't have a warranty.
#29
09-27-2011, 10:30 AM
used engine swap/install would probably be about half that price
Keep an eye on the oil. Sounds like you may have got the water out of it but it could be a few days to be completely gone.
How did the spark plugs look when you pulled them? Try pulling them again.
Did you reset the ECU? Did the codes come right back?
Keep an eye on the oil. Sounds like you may have got the water out of it but it could be a few days to be completely gone.
How did the spark plugs look when you pulled them? Try pulling them again.
Did you reset the ECU? Did the codes come right back?