03 G35 Fuel Pressure Damper Help
#1
03 G35 Fuel Pressure Damper Help
Hey everyone, so i found out that i have to get my fuel damper line replaced, the dealer wanted a leg and arm so of course i want to attempt this install myself. I searched around and i cant seem to find a DIY. Can somebody lead me the right way? The part # is 22675-AM60A
Thanks
Thanks
#3
This may be a little late for you, but it may help someone else. I just did this install a couple days ago. Someone here said it took them 20 mins, and i'm not sure how because it took me much longer than that (could have been due to colder temperatures making the removal more difficult, perhaps, but I spent a couple hours since I didn't know what I was doing). With these instructions, it should go much faster for you. Anyway, here it goes:
1. Open the hood and remove the engine cover
2. Remove the vacuum line that connects the plenum to the battery cover area. This will give you some good working space.
3. Looking down between the strut tower and engine, you'll see a bracket that holds two fuel lines to the body. Remove those two bolts (10mm- I used a ratcheting wrench). Then, unlock the clip that fastens the fuel damper line to the bracket.
4. Push the now loosened bracket toward the back of the car so that it stays out of the way. This will make your job a lot easier.
5. Use a long screwdriver to remove the green clip that holds the bottom of the fuel damper line to the connecting fuel line. I just pushed down on it and it came right off.
6. Unbolt the top of the fuel damper hose. 10mm socket w/ small extension is best. Keep a shop towel handy to catch some minor fuel leakage, but I didn't depressurize the system and I didn't have any crazy spraying or anything.
7. Jack up the passenger side of the car high enough to crawl under. I found it easier to remove the lower connection from under the car, but since i'm 5'6 I didn't do this at the beginning.
8. Push the green tabs together (top and bottom) and push the connector off. The green "lock" will stay on, but the larger black piece will slide off with some effort while holding those tabs down. Beware some fuel will drain out here as well, so keep a rag handy. This step caused me the most grief. I think I pushed both tabs, then rotated the hose so they would stay open and then pushed the hose off. Once the hose is off, pull off the green lock and replace with the new one.
Install is reverse of removal!
1. Open the hood and remove the engine cover
2. Remove the vacuum line that connects the plenum to the battery cover area. This will give you some good working space.
3. Looking down between the strut tower and engine, you'll see a bracket that holds two fuel lines to the body. Remove those two bolts (10mm- I used a ratcheting wrench). Then, unlock the clip that fastens the fuel damper line to the bracket.
4. Push the now loosened bracket toward the back of the car so that it stays out of the way. This will make your job a lot easier.
5. Use a long screwdriver to remove the green clip that holds the bottom of the fuel damper line to the connecting fuel line. I just pushed down on it and it came right off.
6. Unbolt the top of the fuel damper hose. 10mm socket w/ small extension is best. Keep a shop towel handy to catch some minor fuel leakage, but I didn't depressurize the system and I didn't have any crazy spraying or anything.
7. Jack up the passenger side of the car high enough to crawl under. I found it easier to remove the lower connection from under the car, but since i'm 5'6 I didn't do this at the beginning.
8. Push the green tabs together (top and bottom) and push the connector off. The green "lock" will stay on, but the larger black piece will slide off with some effort while holding those tabs down. Beware some fuel will drain out here as well, so keep a rag handy. This step caused me the most grief. I think I pushed both tabs, then rotated the hose so they would stay open and then pushed the hose off. Once the hose is off, pull off the green lock and replace with the new one.
Install is reverse of removal!
Last edited by keithk831; 03-25-2012 at 01:20 AM.
#4
This may be a little late for you, but it may help someone else. I just did this install a couple days ago. Someone here said it took them 20 mins, and i'm not sure how because it took me much longer than that (could have been due to colder temperatures making the removal more difficult, perhaps, but I spent a couple hours since I didn't know what I was doing). With these instructions, it should go much faster for you. Anyway, here it goes:
1. Open the hood and remove the engine cover
2. Remove the vacuum line that connects the plenum to the battery cover area. This will give you some good working space.
3. Looking down between the strut tower and engine, you'll see a bracket that holds two fuel lines to the body. Remove those two bolts (10mm- I used a ratcheting wrench). Then, unlock the clip that fastens the fuel damper line to the bracket.
4. Push the now loosened bracket toward the back of the car so that it stays out of the way. This will make your job a lot easier.
5. Use a long screwdriver to remove the green clip that holds the bottom of the fuel damper line to the connecting fuel line. I just pushed down on it and it came right off.
6. Unbolt the top of the fuel damper hose. 10mm socket w/ small extension is best. Keep a shop towel handy to catch some minor fuel leakage, but I didn't depressurize the system and I didn't have any crazy spraying or anything.
7. Jack up the passenger side of the car high enough to crawl under. I found it easier to remove the lower connection from under the car, but since i'm 5'6 I didn't do this at the beginning.
8. Push the green tabs together (top and bottom) and push the connector off. The green "lock" will stay on, but the larger black piece will slide off with some effort while holding those tabs down. Beware some fuel will drain out here as well, so keep a rag handy. This step caused me the most grief. I think I pushed both tabs, then rotated the hose so they would stay open and then pushed the hose off. Once the hose is off, pull off the green lock and replace with the new one.
Install is reverse of removal!
1. Open the hood and remove the engine cover
2. Remove the vacuum line that connects the plenum to the battery cover area. This will give you some good working space.
3. Looking down between the strut tower and engine, you'll see a bracket that holds two fuel lines to the body. Remove those two bolts (10mm- I used a ratcheting wrench). Then, unlock the clip that fastens the fuel damper line to the bracket.
4. Push the now loosened bracket toward the back of the car so that it stays out of the way. This will make your job a lot easier.
5. Use a long screwdriver to remove the green clip that holds the bottom of the fuel damper line to the connecting fuel line. I just pushed down on it and it came right off.
6. Unbolt the top of the fuel damper hose. 10mm socket w/ small extension is best. Keep a shop towel handy to catch some minor fuel leakage, but I didn't depressurize the system and I didn't have any crazy spraying or anything.
7. Jack up the passenger side of the car high enough to crawl under. I found it easier to remove the lower connection from under the car, but since i'm 5'6 I didn't do this at the beginning.
8. Push the green tabs together (top and bottom) and push the connector off. The green "lock" will stay on, but the larger black piece will slide off with some effort while holding those tabs down. Beware some fuel will drain out here as well, so keep a rag handy. This step caused me the most grief. I think I pushed both tabs, then rotated the hose so they would stay open and then pushed the hose off. Once the hose is off, pull off the green lock and replace with the new one.
Install is reverse of removal!
#5
Well I can hear a rumbling noise at idle so I changed out the fuel damper and whaalaa, the noise is gone. It makes sense since the fuel damper's main function is to "dampen" the fuel pressure (which is the rumbling noise) from the injectors..
The installation with wasn't so bad and the hardest part is the un-clipping the connector under the car. A good trick is to use a big flat head tip, stick it to where you have to push down on the green part and turn the flat head (letting the screw driver force the hose down from the green clip). It unclips it much faster than trying to squeeze it with your hands while trying to push down. If you do that, the installation is about 25-35 minutes.
I had to change out the valve cover with new grommets (extended warranty denied my power train warranty), new fan belts, Camshaft position sensor bank 2 anyways... so what a hell of a "tune up" weekend for me lol
Btw, my part number for the fuel damper is 22675-AM60B. This is the one that's not behind the intake manifold. It's the damper that comes with a hose attached to the valve, to the right side of the manifold if you're facing the engine.
The installation with wasn't so bad and the hardest part is the un-clipping the connector under the car. A good trick is to use a big flat head tip, stick it to where you have to push down on the green part and turn the flat head (letting the screw driver force the hose down from the green clip). It unclips it much faster than trying to squeeze it with your hands while trying to push down. If you do that, the installation is about 25-35 minutes.
I had to change out the valve cover with new grommets (extended warranty denied my power train warranty), new fan belts, Camshaft position sensor bank 2 anyways... so what a hell of a "tune up" weekend for me lol
Btw, my part number for the fuel damper is 22675-AM60B. This is the one that's not behind the intake manifold. It's the damper that comes with a hose attached to the valve, to the right side of the manifold if you're facing the engine.
Last edited by richard0ne; 04-30-2012 at 01:42 AM.
#7
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Fuel Pressure Damper Pictures
I know this is an old thread, but there was an unanswered request for pics, so I'm adding pics.
I recommend removing the small rock-bounce blocking guard under the car -- the small one behind the big one you have to remove to to change the oil. Makes getting to the junction between the fuel damper line and the line from the back of the car much easier.
It was surprisingly difficult to separate the fuel lines underneath the car. (Green clip.) I ended up using a twisting motion and didn't worry about why it worked. A pretty good little splurt of gasoline spilled over the rag and on my sleeve. My eyes were over under the tranny, so no real concern. I wouldn't have my head underneath the clip when popping it open. The elongated light green part (in picture under car) just pulls straight down to come off, then the bright green clips that also exist on the replacement part are the tricky part.
I had one small problem getting the new one on -- the part comes with a short tube (shown in pic sitting on driveway) inserted in the bottom end to keep dust and other potentially engine-fouling debris out. It pulls out effortlessly, and if you don't remove it, it makes installation impossible. Once removed, the damper line popped on super easy.
Now the idle is quiet. The dull rumble from the glove box I had before is gone. As is ~$90.
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