Thanks.

I was told by the dealer I have a hard code stored for the knock sensor but I dont have a check engine light. Im confused

 

yes it does not light the ses light for this code i have no idea why it just doesnt .

 

Looks like the harness is only accessible from under the car ,

 

Drives like a truck! Once in a while, it will drive okay early mornings but most of the times, horrible.

 

Okay,


Don't waste your time running it disconnected. It is a ghost code, which means it will now show check engine light. So, Although I changed the sensor, that didnt do crap. Car was still bad. All you need to do is go to autozone, they will connect the ODB II computer which will give u the code.


I am tired of autozone because, they have to clear out the store before they go out and put computer on my G.


Anyway, it's more likely the harness that is bad... I had to do the job again and couldnt wait to order any harness from Z1. I made my own harness. It is easy.

The reason these go bad is because of a design flaw. It is located directly in the center of the block which gets pretty hot like 400 degrees. When I took aprart the old hardness and examine it, it was crispy and hard like some old 1950 wire. It contains to cables inside a wire conduit. The part out of the block outside the engine did not have this issue.


All I did was find the harness from my old Headlight and 2 cables thivk enough gauge. I tested the cables in the oven and they were fine at 400 degrees. I then replicate what they were doing.. I resued the other end of the wire conduit that was fine. Connect the new cable to the new harness tip from headlight. Same as the knock sensor connector. I then covered it with the flame retarded electrical tape, put it inside the wire conduit. I then fille dup the conduit with a high temp silicone from autozone. I then put that wire conduit into a larger wire conduit from autozone that was flame retarded.


You can also get the heat shielded cover to cover the wire connected to the harnes in the block. The other end of the wire that is under the engine is fine.. just reuse that harness end. It is the one on the block that is not good.


Try to buy a new gasket for the intakes when you do this job since reusing an old gasket can cause air leaks which then cause bad MPg.


after hours, I fired my baby up, and it is flying now. So, I go the knock sensor for no reason! Oh well, at least I know it is new and good. I still got the old one which I am convince was okay.


The old wire did collapse into dust and pieces which I took it apart.

Any question or pictures, just hit me up.

 

BTW, make sure you test the signal. Connect one end to the battery and a tester to the other end of the harness. This will verify the signal.

 

no reason more like preventive maintenance.they dont last forever (knock) and you had it apart anyway . i changed mine and had to go back in there myself the second time this was a few years ago . but i was happy as sh*t when i got the power back

 

So from my research, the culprit is most likely the knock sensor harness for OBD2 Code: P0327. I purchased the harness and am wondering if you must remove upper/lower plenum and manifold to replace just the harness. I'd like to get the harness installed and see if I throw the code again before actually changing out the sensor itself.

I was able to get to the lower connector quite easily from underneath the car, but not the connector on the sensor end. Is the harness connected directly into the sensor, or is there a short wire coming off the sensor that plugs into the sensor end of the harness? Any tips/tricks to get to that end of the harness/connector?

 

Dont think you can change the one going to the sensor without taking it apart . unhooking from bottom is easy .

 

Yes most likely, but it could also be the sensor itself, like others have said previously it's sitting on top of the engine block so in long term the heat could eventually damage the sensor as well. And yes you have to remove upper/lower plenum, manifold and unbolt fuel rail to get to the sensor and that end of the harness. It's not that difficult but it does take some work to get it done, IMO it'll be a good idea to replace both at the same time, since you're spending your time fixing it. That's what I did.

 

yes , changing both is a good idea the sensor doesnt last forever . and if you have an 03 its already 10 yrs old.. it sits right on top of the vq where it has been baking nicely for several years now

 

Thanks for the info. I'll pick up a new knock sensor and take care of both this weekend. Also, I'll be adding a plenum spacer while I'm at it.

 

I replaced mine I have some pics hopefully this helps.

 

I've bought my G35 with this issue, Knock sensor doesn't work.

So it's meant to be it's out of power (because of stored DTC)?

 

Car goes in to limp