Drove my 2003 G35 5AT this morning and everything was fine. Let it sit a bit, tried to head out again and it cranks but won't start running. Took a listen for the fuel pump and I hear nothing.

I pulled the lower dash to check any of the fuses down there, all are good. I checked all the fuses in the small fuse panel (iedm?) and all were good as well. Lastly I checked the big fuse panel on the firewall and the fuse for "fuel pump" was good.

When I turn the key to ON, I hear a 2-step clicking which kinda sounds like a turn signal would. For the life of me I can't find the location of the fuel pump relay so I can check it out. It sounds like it's coming from either under the dash somewhere or on the driver's side under the hood but I can't place it.

Would anyone know if my clicking sound points to the relay being an issue, or what it might be? I don't recall hearing that before this problem, but I'm not certain that it wasn't there.

 

Finally figured out where the fuel pump relay is (on the same firewall fuse panel). Swapped the fuel pump relay out w/another known good relay and that didn't help the issue. Fuel pump still won't turn on and I get that clicking coming from either under the dash or somewhere along the driver's side firewall.

FWIW I do have a remote start hooked up. Perhaps there's a cutoff or relay that should be in line with that which I could look into? It's so tight up there I can't see anything but the brain box. I don't know anything about them to be able to unhook or bypass it. The clicking I hear isn't coming from that box but I also can't see where it leads to.

Surely someone out there can lend some input. I'm without a car until I fix this

 

Pump may be dead...

 

Yea, that's the thought. I spent time checking the other electronics leading to it before I spent the money for a new pump & the time to put it in.

Any idea on what that clicking I'm hearing coming from under the dash/in the engine compartment near the firewall? I still can't figure that out.

Worse yet I'm only home on weekends since I travel for work so I can't do anything but research it more until I get home later this week.

 

the clicking sound you hear is from the throttle body - self test

 

Awesome, thanks for that! It was still driving me crazy but now it makes sense. I bet it'll seem obvious when I take another look now

 

Have you removed the fuel pump and hooked it up to the battery directly? There's also a relay next to the fuel pump under the seat I thought?

 

I haven't been home all week. I just got home this evening and plan to get back to it tomorrow. I will look for a relay under the seat; it'd be great if that were the culprit. How do I hook it to the battery to test? I can do that if I determine the pump needs to come, which I fully expect. Just run the leads to the battery terminals?

 

That's correct, however I should have stated possibly trying a fuel pressure check if you have not done so before pulling out your fuel pump.

 

Is that necessary when the pump isn't turning on at all? Where do I look?

 

It's just an extra reassurance. It's not very time consuming to do a fuel pressure check.
But to answer the question, using a fuel pressure gauge with a "T" adapter will let you know if its working. Make sure to relieve the fuel pressure in the system first.

 

I'll take a look tomorrow, thanks for the info. I could have spent 20 minutes looking for it myself for all I know

 

Found my chilton. Please reference my above comment, original post info would have added time to the troubleshooting process.

 

Forgot to check the fuel pressure before I got going today.

But I was able to confirm the pump works when power reaches it. I wasn't exactly wanting to discover that, because that means a pump replacement won't solve the problem.

What else would stop the pump from getting power besides the fuse in the panel on the firewall and the relay on the same panel?

 

Had it towed to the dealer over the weekend. Kicking myself now since I had the fuel pump out to test w/direct power. It cycled on and I had to leave for another trip for work so I didn't have more time to screw with it. Got the call from Infiniti today and they say it's the pump indeed. So that's $850 or so to do the job otherwise I have to let it sit, tow it back home when I get back on Thursday, then get the pump and put it in. Of course, that's only 20 minutes or so since I still have the back seat removed, but sometimes you just have to be defeated (unfortunately for me). I'm curious as to why the pump kicked on when it had direct power, though. Whatever caused that is costing me $650 or so because I would've put a replacement pump in myself right at that moment. Lesson learned, I guess.