horrible noise please helppp
horrible noise please helppp
thanks so much in advance for the input 
VIDEO AT BOTTOM
so heres the deal
My car has a stage 1 long block/cylinder build and 700bb JWT kit installed and built by vinnytenracing.com.
starting Over the weekend the car at cold starts makes a horrific spinning grinding/clanking noise, like a chunk of metal rolling around in a metal tube type of sound.
It only does it for 1 or 2 seconds and goes right away. Only does it on cold starts. car runs and idles fine.
Last week my CEl came on P0021 p0300 and was driving funny when throttle was over 50% and AF spiked to under 10 , so we changed the cam and crankshaft sensors and instantly the CEL's went off and car runs perfectly.
My clutch is very warn out and slips all the time so maybe its the starter not fully engaging because of the bad clutch and friction plate, maybe once the new clutch and friction plate are installed it will fix that?
I run 10w-40 Mobil 1, after researching i have found that it could be something small as needing thinner oil because the thicker oil takes a while to put tension on the timing chain tensioner, or that the VTC solenoids could be bad/clogged and are making that noise (dont know how such a loud horrible noise could come from them) or that people with the same sound have ended up having spun bearings or messed up cams.
I have only had the car for three weeks, i spent over 2,000$ getting the split second ecu removed as well as the JWT FMU removed, and having OSIRIS and a fuel return system installed. So now im petrified that this could be something bad.
I thought/hope that it cant be something bad with the engine because id imagine if it was it wouldnt go away right away,and that it would happen on warm starts as well if it was something bad in the engine.
http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/pl...f74fb.mp4.html
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kWqxy...ature=youtu.be

VIDEO AT BOTTOM
so heres the deal
My car has a stage 1 long block/cylinder build and 700bb JWT kit installed and built by vinnytenracing.com.
starting Over the weekend the car at cold starts makes a horrific spinning grinding/clanking noise, like a chunk of metal rolling around in a metal tube type of sound.
It only does it for 1 or 2 seconds and goes right away. Only does it on cold starts. car runs and idles fine.
Last week my CEl came on P0021 p0300 and was driving funny when throttle was over 50% and AF spiked to under 10 , so we changed the cam and crankshaft sensors and instantly the CEL's went off and car runs perfectly.
My clutch is very warn out and slips all the time so maybe its the starter not fully engaging because of the bad clutch and friction plate, maybe once the new clutch and friction plate are installed it will fix that?
I run 10w-40 Mobil 1, after researching i have found that it could be something small as needing thinner oil because the thicker oil takes a while to put tension on the timing chain tensioner, or that the VTC solenoids could be bad/clogged and are making that noise (dont know how such a loud horrible noise could come from them) or that people with the same sound have ended up having spun bearings or messed up cams.
I have only had the car for three weeks, i spent over 2,000$ getting the split second ecu removed as well as the JWT FMU removed, and having OSIRIS and a fuel return system installed. So now im petrified that this could be something bad.
I thought/hope that it cant be something bad with the engine because id imagine if it was it wouldnt go away right away,and that it would happen on warm starts as well if it was something bad in the engine.
http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/pl...f74fb.mp4.html
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kWqxy...ature=youtu.be
Last edited by TTBUILTG; Jul 1, 2013 at 11:28 PM.
update (good news in blue, worse news in red lol)
So i Took my car to get oil changed thank the car gods i dont have any metal shavings in my engine.oil pan so no spun bearings or engine damage WHAT A RELIEF (i used mobil 1 10w40 High mileage full synthetic((was told to use high mileage on built motor)) Anyways, Mechanic said its the infamous MAIN TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER
Said it makes that noise at cold startup because the oil pressure takes a second or two to make the oil ran chain tensioner tighten up so its the chain clanking around, said it wont cause any damage but that it is good to get it fixed.
Was told you can take off the front cover of the timing chain cover (**the one that only has 3 bolts) and easily replace it that way. OR to replace the other 2 tensioners as well as the three chains,chain guides,and sprokets, that you have to take off the front bumper,front cross member, radiator and fans,to take the entire front cover off, which also has two bolts that you have to remove the oil pan to get to. Yes a 4-6hour job it could be, really really sucks if you have to go that route. Luckily mine was just the main tensioner and the guides and chains and teeth are all fine.
The part only costs like 70$, or if you do/have to do the entire tare down you can get a complete kit with 2 chains 3 tensioners, 3 guides, for like 250$.
So i Took my car to get oil changed thank the car gods i dont have any metal shavings in my engine.oil pan so no spun bearings or engine damage WHAT A RELIEF (i used mobil 1 10w40 High mileage full synthetic((was told to use high mileage on built motor)) Anyways, Mechanic said its the infamous MAIN TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER
Said it makes that noise at cold startup because the oil pressure takes a second or two to make the oil ran chain tensioner tighten up so its the chain clanking around, said it wont cause any damage but that it is good to get it fixed.
Was told you can take off the front cover of the timing chain cover (**the one that only has 3 bolts) and easily replace it that way. OR to replace the other 2 tensioners as well as the three chains,chain guides,and sprokets, that you have to take off the front bumper,front cross member, radiator and fans,to take the entire front cover off, which also has two bolts that you have to remove the oil pan to get to. Yes a 4-6hour job it could be, really really sucks if you have to go that route. Luckily mine was just the main tensioner and the guides and chains and teeth are all fine.
The part only costs like 70$, or if you do/have to do the entire tare down you can get a complete kit with 2 chains 3 tensioners, 3 guides, for like 250$.
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