Hey this is my first thread I've started but I've been creeping on the forum for a lil over a year now trying to answer my own questions or ask for advice when needed. But I have a 2005 G coupe auto (ya ya I know autos for girls watever lol) but I'm really looking to go FI with this car and everything's been pointing to rebuilding the engine since the stock externals can't handle much boost if any. As far as mods go I have a K&N 69 seires typhoon cold air intake, kinetix velocity intake manifold, berk HFC's, CX racing dual cat back exhaust. I'm about to get NWP's throttle body spacer kit. I'm looking to have my engine rebuilt, tuned and dyno'd in SoCal since that's where I'll be leaving my car while I'm deployed with family. I found a blog online with someone giving a detailed explanation on his 350z rebuild and since both cars have the same VQ motor I don't see a difference. I just want any feed back good or bad from anyone that's personally rebuilt an engine or has a friend that went through the process so I can find out about any pros or cons.

This is the blog I was talking about....
http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/350...o-install.html


So any feed back would be helpful as far as recomended shops around SoCal, brands for enteral parts ect. Oh im looking to go with the momentume single turbo kit for my G if that has anything to do with enternal parts that'll work better or worse with it.

 

Well, if you're going to go turbo , you want lower compression pistons. And if you go lower, you wanna put the turbo on right away or your car will be slower without it with the lower compression. So you want to do it all at once. Plenty of people have run superchargers on stock internals with no problems. A good tune has A LOT to do with it. The rods are forged from factory and strong, which most people don't know. The high compression is the weak point. Also with the 5AT, a grounding kit and valve body upgrade is highly recommended when going f/i

 

Mkay that makes sense and it was something I was worried about. See I've always loved turbo over SC simply because of the power gains of being able to reach 500whp and I don't like the wine of SC's. As far as upgrading the ground kit an valve body how much would that run

 

Grounding kit is only like $100. Valve body is $700 http://intensepower.com/stautrvaboup.html

 

Mkay thanks bro, now I keep getting different answers on this for a price on a full rebuild and turbo kit intallation how much would it normally cost for a G? Because I get different answers that are extremely far apart

 

just to clarify, this is wrong. the oem rods are the weakest point of the VQ.

Also I hope you have a realistic budget in mind for your build. with a good turbo kit such as momentum and a full build with supporting mods and a tune youll probably be looking around $9-10k

 

Ehhh... a full rebuild with new pistons rods bearings, may as well do cams while the engine is apart. With kit and install, I'd ballpark like $15-20k. Probably closer to 20. It's not cheap

 

The VQ35DE is built in Iwaki and Decherd, TN. It was on the Ward's 10 Best Engines list from 2002 through to 2007. It features forged steel connecting rods, a microfinished one-piece forged crankshaft, and Nissan's nylon intake manifold technology. It has low-friction molybdenum-coated pistons and the intake is a high-flow tuned induction system. Since its inception Nissan has improved upon the VQ35DE with changes keeping it an efficient class leading V6 engine.

Forged steel will handle over 100whp per rod.

 

See you qoute 9-10k and he just said 15-20k that's the price difference I'm talking about. And yes my budget is reasonable I'm gonna be deploying an I should come back with enough to do this whole build n turbo it's just I'm having issues getting a correct estimate from people

 

$10k will get you rods, pistons, bearings, head gaskets, turbo kit. You'll still want cams, valve springs, guages, oil cooler, clutch, flywheel, and labor will be ~$100/hr

 

I know you got this from wikipedia and can tell you its wrong. The VQ35DE rods are known as the weakest point besides a head gasket of course. and this is most likely referring to the VQ35HR which has the nylon intake manifold which also has a lot stronger rods(pretty sure theyre still not forged). Ive owned multiple F/I kits (JWT and procharger) as well as had nitrous and the proper supporting mods. Ive also done all the F/I and mod installs myself(besides tune). I only say 9-10k because it will get you the turbo kit, a decent build and a tune. He probably doesn't need cams/headwork unless aiming for 600HP and because he's auto I wouldnt recommend it unless doing a 6mt swap since the auto starts slipping around 450 unless you build it, and even then it will slip over 550-600 (built) just due to clutchpack size.

 

Mkay that sounds fine like I said I just want to do this right without any shortcuts. Have u ever seen that blog that I posted in the original thread post? It talks about building from a new short block and has some good points.

 

It was referring to the DE. And I guarantee they are forged. Nissan is known for forged rods/strong bottom ends. All SR engines (turbo and n/a) had forged aluminum rods.(and they could handle 450+whp, on 4 aluminum rods) I'm not just a Z/G guy. I'm a total Nissan enthusiast, so I know a lot about their engines in general

 

No I'm not aiming for 600hp that's to high for me I'm fine with 450-500hp. Not to fast but fast enough. And no don't plan on doing the auto to manual switch

 

If you're "only" aiming for 450-500. I'd highly recommend a JWT twin turbo kit with dual gt2871r .64ar turbos. You will hit 450whp with moderate boost and minimum turbo lag and a very usable streetable power curve. I would do entry level rods, 9.5:1 ish pistons, gaskets and bearings. And of course the valve body upgrade. Oil cooler is also highly recommended with f/i. Don't bother with the head. Oil pressure and temp guages to keep an eye on things. A boost guage of course. And a good uprev dyno tune