Anyone else build their G35s?
G35 not running Backfire intake
I recently pulled my motor again and did some work and put it back in and i cant get it to run. I have checked almost everything. On the variable intake and exhaust timing does it matter which side they go one? Like inside the timing chain cover.
Worlds wierdest g35???
I've been having trouble with getting my motor to run after I pulled the motor for the 3rd time. I unplug the crank position sensor and it runs then I plug it in and it seems as though only a few cylinders fire and very little throttle response. Already tried another crank sensor. Any ideas?
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Is cylinder 1, 3 and the vvt connected to the main harness with the stupid clip that is not necessary lol I made that mistake and it sounded like a honda crossed with a subi (4cyl) sounded pretty demon-ish lmao
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Problem solved
Awesome! When I did the headgaskets on my car, I followed the FSM procedure and removed the oil pans. I see you you used a different technique. lol I'm just wondering if it's hard to do like that and will you be assembling with the oil pans on too.
If the cylinder was pushing that bad into the cooling system and you didn't see and clear indication upon dissassembly of a failed HG, I think it's safe to say you do indeed have a crack in the cylinder head. I'm not sure how common cracked heads are on these engines but it seems like almost every week we get a new thread in the forums of someone trying to diagnose an overheating issue and usually have symptoms of cylinder pressure entering the cooling system. I think it's safe to say that there not all headgasket failures.
Is that a revup engine and what are your HP estimates?
If the cylinder was pushing that bad into the cooling system and you didn't see and clear indication upon dissassembly of a failed HG, I think it's safe to say you do indeed have a crack in the cylinder head. I'm not sure how common cracked heads are on these engines but it seems like almost every week we get a new thread in the forums of someone trying to diagnose an overheating issue and usually have symptoms of cylinder pressure entering the cooling system. I think it's safe to say that there not all headgasket failures.
Is that a revup engine and what are your HP estimates?
Solved
I've been having trouble with getting my motor to run after I pulled the motor for the 3rd time. I unplug the crank position sensor and it runs then I plug it in and it seems as though only a few cylinders fire and very little throttle response. Already tried another crank sensor. Any ideas?
I searched for 'sub 5-second g35' or something I think. I was searching a bunch of keywords tho, so it may have had another variation of words.
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Joined: May 2015
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ok...so i have to rebuild or replace my 2004 sedan motor. I drive hard. I don't know what people mean when they say the car is not good for drifting, mine drifted great, till I blew the bottom end.( I understand that could be what they meant--lol) But seriously, what did it cost to rebuild an NA motor mile this??
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Could you give me an idea what you have done and are planning to do? I am scared to buy a replacement oem motor because I might kill it too, but want to drive hard. I am wondering how much it will cost to rebuild mine with parts that can handle hard driving...
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Joined: Sep 2015
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From: Florida, Orlando/Melbourne
Awesome! When I did the headgaskets on my car, I followed the FSM procedure and removed the oil pans. I see you you used a different technique. lol I'm just wondering if it's hard to do like that and will you be assembling with the oil pans on too.
If the cylinder was pushing that bad into the cooling system and you didn't see and clear indication upon dissassembly of a failed HG, I think it's safe to say you do indeed have a crack in the cylinder head. I'm not sure how common cracked heads are on these engines but it seems like almost every week we get a new thread in the forums of someone trying to diagnose an overheating issue and usually have symptoms of cylinder pressure entering the cooling system. I think it's safe to say that there not all headgasket failures.
Is that a revup engine and what are your HP estimates?
If the cylinder was pushing that bad into the cooling system and you didn't see and clear indication upon dissassembly of a failed HG, I think it's safe to say you do indeed have a crack in the cylinder head. I'm not sure how common cracked heads are on these engines but it seems like almost every week we get a new thread in the forums of someone trying to diagnose an overheating issue and usually have symptoms of cylinder pressure entering the cooling system. I think it's safe to say that there not all headgasket failures.
Is that a revup engine and what are your HP estimates?
Also, where is this FSM procedure?
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Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Nutley, NJ
The only way you can install the rear cover without removing the oil pans is to slide it on the mating surface of the two. Obviously, there is little to clearance between the oil pan and timing cover so there is no room for the sealant when installing it that way.
Yes, it can be done but you won't find Infiniti recommending that install method because it is likely it will leak sometime in the future. I'm sure you can get it work with a bit of effort and some good sealant. I would be interested in hearing from someone who has done it.
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Joined: Sep 2015
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From: Florida, Orlando/Melbourne
The oil pan mates up with the frond and rear engine cover. According to the service manual, you can remove the front cover but you have to bang in the the dowel pins located on the rear. Reducing the length of the dowel pins will allow you to install the front cover bottom first on an angle.
The only way you can install the rear cover without removing the oil pans is to slide it on the mating surface of the two. Obviously, there is little to clearance between the oil pan and timing cover so there is no room for the sealant when installing it that way.
Yes, it can be done but you won't find Infiniti recommending that install method because it is likely it will leak sometime in the future. I'm sure you can get it work with a bit of effort and some good sealant. I would be interested in hearing from someone who has done it.
The only way you can install the rear cover without removing the oil pans is to slide it on the mating surface of the two. Obviously, there is little to clearance between the oil pan and timing cover so there is no room for the sealant when installing it that way.
Yes, it can be done but you won't find Infiniti recommending that install method because it is likely it will leak sometime in the future. I'm sure you can get it work with a bit of effort and some good sealant. I would be interested in hearing from someone who has done it.
I had the lower steel sump off to access the 3 bolts underneath.
The rear timing cover came off with ease just by sliding it forward. I see what you mean about ensuring a good seal. Lot's of sealant in the right place and it should be alright.
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