Ok i am going to make this short and sweet...

I took my 2005 g35 to the track last year for the first time with just intake and ran best of 14.2@98 with a 2.1 60ft

1 year later i have since added a kenetix ssv intake and 2009 maxima throttle body and had my timing advanced .2 degrees with osirus cable (via friend). I have not gotten tuned as of yet but i took it to the track last weekend and could only manage a few 15 second passes...WTH The car feels pretty strong on the street and it doesnt FEEL like a 15 second car. At a lose here....

 

14.2 is extremely good for a 2005 G35. What was your 60'? Tires make more of an impact than intake. The different was probably just driver/tires.

Also SSV actually looses power on a NA car. So your mods made no difference, if anything they probably hurt you.

 

All things are the same as before. Only changes are the mods that were listed. But I dont think i would loose over a second even with bad driving. On my last pass just to make all things even i just left it in "D" and it went 15.3...smh When i did the 14.2 i did manual shift it but with the car in "D" i was also about to muster a 14.6...This was the pass a year ago. My best 60 ft this weekend was a 2.3 i believe. The car just felt like blah at the track but when i got out on the street it felt pretty good

Going to try and post my slips for comparison soon..

 

A year later, lots changes. Track conditions, temps, humidity are different. Tires are more worn.

Again, being NA, you lose power with SSV (should have got the Mrev2). The 75mm TB gains are marginal, ~5hp and only above 5.5-6k rpm. 2 degree timing advance is pretty negligible too, maybe 2-3 hp. Basically the mods you chose did not add any power to your car, if anything you probably lost a bit of low end power. Your 60' is probably worse than your 14.3 pass and it would explain why your times are worse.

Checking your post history, you claimed a 60' of 2.1s with you previous pass and just said best last weekend was 2.3s. That is why your lost 0.7 seconds in 1/4 mile. You lost low end with ssv and tb.

 

The Kenetix hurt you, they're intended for FI! Heat's another factor, what CAI are you running? Metal will kill your WHP due to heat soak, our VQ engines hate sucking up hot air...and they let you know! What other mods have you completed, exhaust/cats/trans kit?
Gary

 

ok well this car was bought originally for a daily since i have a 11 sec mazdaspeed6 at home.. The mods that i have on the car are pretty much only on there because either it was a good deal or i needed it. The Air intake is metal and that was my first mod since i already had the pipe at home so it was a free mod.. The Kenetix i got that for about 200 since the guy that i got it from was selling his altima and he didnt want it anymore. The maxima throttle i got that from him as well since my factory TB failed.

I understand that the intake may have caused me to loose a little in power but 1 sec This type of powerloss should be felt in everyday driving and for some reason it doesn't feel like 15s on the streets. I have done 2.3 60s and still did 14 sec passes i lost a **** load of mph.

I have a question, could my cats be the problem? reason why i ask this is when i start my car up i get this rattling from under the car. but once the car is warmed up and i start it no more rattling. Also SOMETIMES when i get into the throttle SOMETIMES my acceleration is sluggish at best and sometimes it pulls nicely and consistenly. IF my cats are clogged i think this can cause a 1 sec drop in times and about 10mph in the qtrmile... What do you guys think?

 

It is felt in everyday driving, but mods also have a placebo effect. No matter what, everyone that installs parts thinks it makes their car faster. Everyones butt dyno says that after they install an intake or exhaust, they can feel the extra power (though in some cases they actually loose power).

There is no problem with your car. You cats are not clogged. The reason it acts sluggish is because it is a heavy car, with an average amount of power.

 

I understand the placebo effect of each little 5-10 gain or loss mods that you put on your car. But i have had these mods on my car for a good period of time and i think one can tell that their car is 1 sec down on time resulting in a great number of powerloss... I appreciate your comments as well so i dont want you to think i am going in on you. This just seem kinda odd to me.

Dont know how the weight comment plays any effect in this conversation either. IF i had never taken the car to the track and i ASSUMED it would do some thing that it had never done before and i ran this time then your argument would be perfectly valid...

 

I am just saying you installed 2 mods that cause you to lose low end power. You ran a slower 60'. Your car is now slightly slower than before, even if it doesnt "feel" like it. There is nothing at all wrong with your car.

 

Just wanted to let you know i appreciate your comments to my issue just trying to look for a fix. Should i remove the mods or is tuning my fix? or should be choosing other mods to replace the current mods?

 

Reiterating what buddiee said: The SSV is meant for FI. Introducing it on a N/A car only hurts it. I would say this is where a good portion of power is being lost. On a N/A engine it is merely a show piece. There is also other minor factors when driving such as temp, humidity, and simple wear and tear.

Another you thing you mentioned is that you left it in 'D'. Depending on your ECU this can hurt you further. When I leave it in D, my car tends to shift at 6200 give or take 100 RPM. When this happens I noticed it not getting the times i'm used too. Atleast with manual you can take it up a notch by waiting for an extra 4-600 RPM.
To add on to the ECU boat, it'll be a good idea to reset the ECU and rip it around a few times to get your mapping to lean on performance a bit more (Better response)

Since you have an auto, your best bet is to go back to the stock plenum, throw in a 5/16 or 1/2 spacer from MD. This will give you some actual legitimate gainz, and it's not too expensive either

 

Thanks for your reply, To address the "D" part i only had 3 passes with the car that day and the other two where with me manual shifting. So i left it in "D" not for time but sorta consistent pass with very little issues on the run other than reaction time( i was bracket racing first round on my third pass) and my 60 ft. If i had won that round i would just have reset my dial in based upon me leaving it in "D" and i would have just searched for a faster time on a later date.

As far as the temps and tires and other things that were mentioned and location. I understand them to be factors and i am not taking away from that. but if you have the same track and same elevation and the temps were not that far off from the previous time you may gain or loose a couple of tenths MAYBE .5 but i just dont see 1 sec. Not saying that it is not possible though..just a little hard to believe. Again i appreciate the comments that have been made and i will be furthering my testing to find out exactly what is the problem.

About the SSV the guy that i got it from had it on his 2002 altima with all the supporting mod less a turbo/supercharger or NOS and he was able to muster a 13.02 out of the car full interior. just trying to understand....

 

Best fix would be to undo everything you did. You lost low end power with your mods.

1. Sell the SSV, get a Mrev2, 5/16 spacer.
2. Ditch the autozone intake and go back to ztube with either the stock box with K&N drop in or stillen box intake.
3. Get some ART pipes.
4. Ditch the timing advance and get a proper Uprev Osiris tune when all previous mods are installed.


That is the best NA bang/buck setup and you will easily gain ~30hp.

 

I really appreciate everyones comments and assistance in this matter. Got a lot of things i need to work out.

 

@OP: If you have an automatic (aka non revup engine, which it clearly seems) the mrev2 is not a necessity. Unless you can find a good justifiable reason to spend an extra $500 to get an extra 5HP. It's not worth it on an auto and you can put that $500 towards something like an HR y pipe and coupe middy for better sound