Upper oil pan
#1
09-10-2017, 11:14 PM
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#2
09-11-2017, 03:30 PM
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There were a number if revisions in the newer pan, mostly just casting marks and the baffle on the top side. The only thing you will need is a new valve oil pressure regulator (ball check valve) for inside where the oil filter goes but the pan is compatible.
You'll see the valve oil pressure regulator when you compare the two pans, it looks like a little ball bearing inside the oil filter passage and the newer pan just has a hole where it needs to be put.
You'll see the valve oil pressure regulator when you compare the two pans, it looks like a little ball bearing inside the oil filter passage and the newer pan just has a hole where it needs to be put.
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09-21-2017, 10:34 PM
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There were a number if revisions in the newer pan, mostly just casting marks and the baffle on the top side. The only thing you will need is a new valve oil pressure regulator (ball check valve) for inside where the oil filter goes but the pan is compatible.
You'll see the valve oil pressure regulator when you compare the two pans, it looks like a little ball bearing inside the oil filter passage and the newer pan just has a hole where it needs to be put.
You'll see the valve oil pressure regulator when you compare the two pans, it looks like a little ball bearing inside the oil filter passage and the newer pan just has a hole where it needs to be put.
#4
09-22-2017, 11:27 PM
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EDIT: DO NOT GET UNDER THE MOTOR IF ITS ONLY SUPPORTED BY HYDRAULIC MEANS SUCH AS A CHERRY PICKER!
It can be done, you need a top rail mounted engine support bar, they look like this:
Support the motor, then you can remove the front cross member, pull off peripherials from the pan like the starter, filter, etc, now you have access to the upper pan.
It's got a huge gasket surface to clean so be warned it's probably not EASY to do from under the vehicle. If your vehicle is AWD it's probably going to be a total BITCH because of front differential and stuff.
It can be done, you need a top rail mounted engine support bar, they look like this:
Support the motor, then you can remove the front cross member, pull off peripherials from the pan like the starter, filter, etc, now you have access to the upper pan.
It's got a huge gasket surface to clean so be warned it's probably not EASY to do from under the vehicle. If your vehicle is AWD it's probably going to be a total BITCH because of front differential and stuff.
#5
10-27-2017, 08:09 PM
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EDIT: DO NOT GET UNDER THE MOTOR IF ITS ONLY SUPPORTED BY HYDRAULIC MEANS SUCH AS A CHERRY PICKER!
It can be done, you need a top rail mounted engine support bar, they look like this:
https://www.amazon.com/go2buy-Engine...ne+support+bar
Support the motor, then you can remove the front cross member, pull off peripherials from the pan like the starter, filter, etc, now you have access to the upper pan.
It's got a huge gasket surface to clean so be warned it's probably not EASY to do from under the vehicle. If your vehicle is AWD it's probably going to be a total BITCH because of front differential and stuff.
It can be done, you need a top rail mounted engine support bar, they look like this:
https://www.amazon.com/go2buy-Engine...ne+support+bar
Support the motor, then you can remove the front cross member, pull off peripherials from the pan like the starter, filter, etc, now you have access to the upper pan.
It's got a huge gasket surface to clean so be warned it's probably not EASY to do from under the vehicle. If your vehicle is AWD it's probably going to be a total BITCH because of front differential and stuff.
#6
10-28-2017, 06:24 PM
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There aren't factory specified lift points because it's designed to come out the bottom at the dealership but slinging from the two big bolts in the front of the timing chain works great. They're unused bolts that were originally part of the mechanical cooling fan on the '03 engines. Torque spec is 55 ft'lbs for those bolts. This thread has good pictures of what I'm talking about.
https://my350z.com/forum/engine-driv...y-removal.html
https://my350z.com/forum/engine-driv...y-removal.html
#7
10-28-2017, 06:51 PM
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There aren't factory specified lift points because it's designed to come out the bottom at the dealership but slinging from the two big bolts in the front of the timing chain works great. They're unused bolts that were originally part of the mechanical cooling fan on the '03 engines. Torque spec is 55 ft'lbs for those bolts. This thread has good pictures of what I'm talking about.
https://my350z.com/forum/engine-driv...y-removal.html
https://my350z.com/forum/engine-driv...y-removal.html
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#8
10-28-2017, 07:27 PM
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Make sure to check out the factory service manual (or at minimum a haynes/chilton) before you start.
Page 26 starts the oil pan section
http://www.nicoclub.com/service-manu.../Coupe/2003/em
Page 26 starts the oil pan section
http://www.nicoclub.com/service-manu.../Coupe/2003/em
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