Hello guys this is my first post on here yes I'm a noob. I know the search button works but I haven't found anything on what I need help with. I'm buying an 04 G35 coupe automatic. Lady says her son was driving it and it just shut off and wouldn't start back all it would do is turn over no check engine lights no coolant lights anything like that came on. The engine would just sit there and turn over and turn over and never start they got it home put jumper cables or a new battery in it and they said that it would turn over and sputter and die. Whenever it died the first time on the road they said there was a little bit of fluid came out which leads me to believe it was a overheating issue and maybe a toasted ring or blown head gasket. I checked the oil level and it was barely even on the tip of the dipstick. What are some of the common problems with a no start on these cars could the anti-theft fuel pump or the coil be the culprit. Do these cars have a low oil level safety built-in that prevents them from starting with low oil. Any help with Linc to write ups or common problem with the G35 links would be a great help guys sorry if this post has been made a million times but trying to get this thing on the road and don't want to spend 45 minutes searching through post on a forum that I just started and don't know how to navigate really good yet. This is going to be my wife daily so I want to make it as Dependable as I can and no all the quirks and common issues so I can go ahead and fix it. Thanks guys

 

Don't buy it unless you plan on putting a new engine in it. With no oil on the dipstick I would say the engine is toast

 

Yeah I bought it with the knowledge of I'm going to have to put a motor in it worst case scenario and I found a few for a thousand $1,200 I'm only giving 1700 for the car. So is there any known issues with these cars that I should be aware of or any little tricks or tidbits of information that you can point me in the right direction to

 

Bad cam/crank sensors prevent spark/fuel, however it sounds like it overheated and blew something up, drain the oil into a clean container and drag a magnet through it to see what santa delivered this xmas. If it was a catastrophic kaboom you might not find anything though, does it have a STRONG crank or is it -really- sluggish to turn over. sluggish can mean a spun bearing which is common from running them low on oil.

Pull all the spark plugs, inspect for wear, plug in one at a time and hold the ground strap (hook part on the tip) of the plug against the intake plenum or other chassis metal and see if you HAVE spark at the plug, if you have spark and it won't fire then add 1gal of fuel (combination meter fuel gauge failure is common), if it STILL won't fire up then check fuel pressure (no schrader valve unfortunately so cut one in with a kit) should be 45-50psi I think. If it STILL won't fire you have bigger issues.

If you don't have spark it is the ECU not meeting the parameters for spark, needs to see the cams and the crank (phase sensors) as well as the fuel pump.

 

Awesome thanks guys

 

Good luck with buying a fourteen year old piece of s#it.

Telcoman

 

So your saying no matter what shape it' in if it ain' new it ain' good lol

 

No that is not what I am saying!

Although you did not pay very much for a fourteen year old vehicle, I have doubts that you have the necessary funds and resources to afford the expensive repairs to this vehicle.

I spoke to the owner of this 32 Ford Coupe

by ,

He spent $100k on the restoration.

Are you prepared to spend the necessary $$$ or are you just looking for a cheap ride?

Telcoman

 

So your saying no matter what shape it' in if it ain' new it ain' good lol

 

Lol comparing a 32 Ford street to a daily driver g35 is way off .but yes I am looking mabe 3k total for everything

 

I don't want to hijack this thread but curious how others cut in a fuel pressure test valve? I have a long crank problem and all the fsm troubleshooting points to check the fuel pressure but I don't have access to the special tool kit. If there is some common method to diy this, that would be great.

 

Ask away I'm trying to get as much info as possible my self

 

Worst case scenario it costs +$1500 for a used motor (maybe less, depends on what's available in your area) if you do all the work yourself for the swap. Total you would only be $3200 into the vehicle which is fair depending on the condition of the rest of the vehicle.

For testing the fuel pressure you need part j-44321-4 from this schematic https://www.carmd.com/Tsb/Download/10192/52395

Then you install it here on your vehicle between the passenger side fuel damper and the fuel line, it just sandwiches between the two and the kit supplies longer bolts, it is the fuel QD you need to test pressure and can remain installed on the vehicle. Unfortunately you probably have to buy the entire fuel pressure test kit.

You could also buy a generic and cut it into the metal fuel line behind the intake, you will need to remove the intake probably to get your flare tool onto the line, just be aware that there isn't a way to depressurize the line so have rags and a container to catch fuel in.

EDIT: Telcoman that's one pretty looking Ford.