I couldn't find a G35 RAS assembly, so I purchased one from an M35/M45 vehicle. Has a completely different part number: 55705-AQ500. It bolted right up and my problems went away. It cost me about 150 bucks to fix and 30 minutes of my time; I also fixed an exhaust leak with some FIberWrap. I didn't want to spend another 200 dollars for a muffler shop to weld something that didn't last to begin with. Let's see how long this wrap holds up; I saw pretty decent reviews about it.

I only needed the motor to fix my RAS otherwise you have to drop everything, do some neutral position setting, and probably get an alignment. There are some steps in the FSM to check everything. But, I used my Autel Diaglink to read the live data on the RAS ECU and it showed only the motor with 0V. It states in the FSM not to use 12V from the battery to see if the motor operates. I didn't feel like digging around for my multimeter, so I hooked an incandescent test light to battery + and one RAS terminal to battery -. The light lit up on the replacement motor, but didn't on the original motor. I'm assuming my original motor had an internal open.

There was a TON of sand, grit, and grime that cam out of the motor when I took it off. So, that could have something do with it. It also had a decent amount of grease in good condition, so I put a dab on the motor shaft.

Shop also told me I had a bad rear wheel bearing, so I figured I'd replace both of those, since my car has 166K miles. I ordered a 12 ton press for 100 bucks and that should be here tomorrow.

 

I've always wanted to buy a press as I have paid a guy twice to press out bushings for me. But like any other big tool - it takes up too much space for my apartment style living .

Good work so far. Good luck with the rest. Wish I had the RAS option on mine.

 

Yea, I had the same thought process about keeping something in my garage that I will hardly use. Harbor Freight does sell a smaller 6 ton press that might not take up too much space. But, I'm not sure if it's enough force to put bushings/wheel bearings in.

I think one of my diff side seals is leaking as well, so I'll probably replace that when I do the wheel bearing.

 

It probably takes 2 minutes to pull the bolts on a press and break it back down to just the individual components, it's a super handy tool and when it's broken down it stores very easily. You could even make a compact wooden case with wheels to make rolling it around easier. Total weight on mine is like 60 lbs but if you carried the actual hydralic jack separately that cuts about 15 lbs off the weight.