Engine sits too high...
 

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/g35driv...a58f50c8e3.jpg
Long story short.

I was lowering my car with my jack by the front garage jack point.

The jack slipped. Causing the car to slam down ... Alarm went off.

This morning I noticed it's fine no leaks. I haven't checked the oil pan for bends etc... As the jack definitely hit it when it slipped.

My problem is, the engine sits an inch higher now. When I close the hood it's right on the upper plenum. It does not close properly anymore.


Hmmm... Any ideas

My guess is a bent subframe, what EXACTLY did the jack hit? Jack it back up, put it on jackstands, look for the major scuff marks where it hit.

Take a really good picture of it and post it here.

Could have broken both motor mounts as well since the weight of the chassis would have PULLED the engine off the mounts. You should be able to inspect this as well, just don't go putting your fingers up anywhere because it could shift and drop the motor down on the subframe again.

Were you using a hydraulic jack or the crappy dangerous one that came with the car?

Telcoman

I was using a hydraulic jack.... could of been alot worse!!

anyways... i jacked up the car and checked it out....


seems like it's just the motor mounts! thank god. any recommendations? I saw some aluminum ones on ebay for $100.... rockauto has aftermarket replacements for $50...




also the oil pan is a bit bent... i don't think it will effect anything, no cracks, leaks.


https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/g35driv...a9f63424c4.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/g35driv...791e8bf6d8.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/g35driv...c5fc6639ca.jpg

Yep those mounts are definitely FUBAR, I would tackle this repair with a engine bar like this.


It sits on the hood rails, set it to the uppermost position with those adjusters and then you can let the tension off to lower the engine back down when you have the new mounts on.

You will likely need a torque adapter to get to some of the bolts. They look like this.


Honestly I would DEFINITELY not use a solid engine mount, the NVH is pretty crazy, I have the Z1 Motorsports urethane ones and it's as firm as I would go. If you don't want all the extra NVH then stick with an OEM style rubber mount.

Z1
https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-pro...ts-p-5586.html

OEM-ish looking one

You should also throw on a new lower oil pan, you can pick them up for under $50 usually.

There's also a pretty good chance it F'd the transmission mount but I would wait until the engine is setting back down on new mounts before removing it to inspect. The transmission one is a piece of cake to replace fortunately.

If you haven't already start looking up guides on removing the engine mount, it's a pretty big pain in the ***.

Here's a link to the factory service manuals, EM Engine Mechanical should have links to everything you need for torque values and FSM procedures for replacing that stuff. AT Automatic Transmission or MT Manual Transmission for the tranny mount.

The document starts at FWD Forward if you want to look anything else up.

https://nicoclub.com/archives/infini...e-manuals.html

Good find on those torque adapters.

Thanks cleric670!



I got the next two weeks off work... so I'm not too concerned about time getting it fixed.


Anyway, just weighin out my options. Possibly getting a replacement set from rock auto. $60 a mount

Or i might go over and pull them from a junkyard, $10 each.

I figured the used OEM ones would be better than brand new replacements, but what do i know...

Depends on the condition of the engine mounts. However since they're such a PITA the remove I would definitely just buy replacement ones rather than spending 4-6 hours in a junkyard.

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Solid-Delrin...NWU4t2&vxp=mtr



kinda thinking about these... wonder if they are softer than solid poly or aluminium...

VERY good idea! Also, IF you do this, check the "Oil Strainer(the tube through which oil is drawn into the oil pump)". Having never been in there(and hopefully never needing to in my lifetime), I have no idea just how close the "tube" gets to the "Lower oil pan"... BUT, it could have been bent and/or the opening crushed, restricting oil flow to the oil pump.

I'm glad you weren't injured...be safe under there!

Delrin Teflon durometer is higher than polyurethane. So they'll be stiffer than poly but not quite as bad as a full solid mount.

It's a little stiff imo, but that's a good price on a pair so....

Rockauto.com has some Beck/Arnley's for $31 each so if you want an OEM style rubber mount that would probably be the one to get.

The thing with the aftermarket mounts that the ebay link referred to is ... the bottom screw goes from under neath as opposed to a screw that's already in place compared to oem mounts which use a nut on the bottom.


I feel like the ebay ones I can get away without dropping the subframe, whereas the oem ones I have no choice in that matter.


I was thinking of taking off the plenum which can allow me to lift the motor even higher.