just tried exactly what you said and it’s still not working, can’t figure this one out.

 

Have someone else work the brake pedal and see if there is any movement at the slave cylinder, push it back in with your hands and see if it moves at all.

If it DOES move you may have improperly installed the carrier bearing housing.

 

I don’t see any movement when the brake is pressed but I can move the slave with my hand, and it also moves when the clutch is pressed.

 

Oops I didn't mean brake pedal, I meant clutch pedal.

If you can push the slave in (pushing on the clutch fork) with your hand and someone else presses the clutch pedal while you're pushing on that clutch fork to TRY to keep it pushed in and they can still move your hand back about 1 inch then it's working and the issue is probably inside the bellhousing. 1 inch of movement is about what you get from the slave cylinder rod.

Is there any GAP between the clutch fork and the little rod sticking out of the slave cylinder?

 

Also, with the vehicle in gear, when you start the engine is it trying to pull the car forward / tires spinning? If so do they still spin when the clutch pedal is pushed to the floor?

Obviously be careful doing this, I wouldn't recommend it at all if you have just the front of the vehicle on jackstands because it could drive the car forward off them with the rear wheels touching the ground.

 

i do not see a gap between the fork and slave. When I have the slave pushed in and the clutch is depressed it pushes back on my hand, but the clutch pedal still needs to be pulled back up by hand. When the car is started in gear the tires do spin but when the clutch is pushed in they continue to spin.

 

Ok this summer I goofed taking clutch measurements on on my G and got the throwout bearing housing RETURN SPRING on backwards, let me dig up a thread that has a bunch of picture.

If you remove the slave cylinder (leave the hydraulic line attached) then you can pull off the clutch fork rubber boot from outside the transmission and use a flashlight to look up inside the bellhousing to make sure your spring is installed correctly. I had the exactly same issue with that car too, clutch pedal would only return about halfway up off the floor.

If the pedal won't return AT ALL from the floor then it's possible you put the clutch friction disc in backwards, are you 100% sure you put the side that says TOWARDS ENGINE actually towards the engine? One side of your clutch friction disc will be marked as to which side it points towards, engine or transmission.

https://g35driver.com/forums/drivetr...ew-clutch.html

There's the thread I made just to let others know it's actually possible to get that spring on backwards/upside down.

If the clutch friction disc is backwards it will probably bog the engine down when you hold on the brakes because it's got quite a bit of friction against the pressure plate, with the TO bearing housing spring backwards it does not.

Either way just know that using the brakes to stop wheel spin with the engine running IS SLIPPING THE CLUTCH so don't do it excessively.

 

I actually never disconnected the trans from the engine so it should all be installed correctly. The engine went straight out of the other car into this one, and as far as I know, it was working perfectly fine in the other car. I know that the clutch pressure was perfectly fine before I removed it from the other car.

 

I honestly think there is just a ton of air in the lines still that I haven't been able to get out.

 

Might have to get a Motive bleeder, the universal adapter works on the clutch reservoir but like I was saying earlier you need to put a small piece of wood or something under the reservoir because of the way the chain has to wrap around under it. Don't pump it up more than 5psi on the universal cap and put a LOT of towels under it (like seriously try to get an entire bath towel under it) because it's going to leak a little and it's an absolute pain to clean that part of the car.

 

I went ahead and ordered one earlier, I’ll let you know what happens

 

I’ve been using the motive bleeder for the past hour trying to bleed it, feels like the bubbles never really stop. The pedal still does not come back up from the floor and is extremely stiff at about the half way point. It doesn’t go completely to the floor when pressed as it does when the bleeder is open, drops to the half way point when pressed and stays there.

 

It might be an odd coincidence but if the pedal is having issues depressing then it sounds like a problem with the clutch slave cylinder piston failing.

Physically look at the clutch pedal assembly and make sure there's not something obviously damaged. You can see the whole thing easily.

 

Ohh NVM I misunderstood, keep going until the air is gone.

 

I haven’t had much time to work on this lately but by any chance do you know how to disconnect the ebrake from the car where it splits into two? Under the car above the driveshaft.