So I've had two JWT clutches, the endurance and the 6 puck. The endurance started slipping almost immediately and just slowly died over a year. So I bought the 6 puck because they said that clutch was more meant for drift. I broke the clutch in just as they instructed. However, three months and a couple thousand miles later my clutch started really acting up after I did a U-turn while slipping the clutch. I'm hoping it's just overheated and will fix itself after it cools down. I'm wondering if there's a clutch I can get where I can clutch kick and slip without having to worry about the car as much.

 

There's no such thing as a clutch that you can kick and not worry about, you're cooking it off rapidly but you should delete your clutch line restrictor valve (drill it out if you don't want to just replace the line) because it's only going to make the problem worse by allowing a slight delay in releasing the pressure when you're off the clutch.

The clamping pressure of the pressure plate and the friction coefficient of the clutch material itself aren't going to add life to the clutch, if you're slipping the clutch it's just going to wear QUICKLY regardless of what material is used.

Keep in mind that clutch kicking is SUPER FAST, if you're letting the rpms hang you're doing it wrong and you don't even completely push the clutch, just a quick tap and release.

How much power is your car making atm, are you sure you're buying a clutch that's rated for that power level.

Biggest mistake I see when people are eating clutches rapidly is either driving around with their foot resting on the clutch or letting the rpm's hang.

 

I already have new clutch lines on my car so restriction isn't an issue. Maybe I should stop trying to spin the car around when I'm driving. I just do it in assetto corsa and think it's fun haha. I didn't know you didnt have to put the clutch down all the way to clutch kick, I'll start doing that. The clutch was rated for 600 TQ and I have 300ish so I don't think that was the issue.