thats part of my next mod list anything wrong i here 50/50 so anybody can clear it up i will appreciate thanks..

 

"clear it up"... won't happen. It has been 50/50 and probably always will be - at least until someone gets to 100-200K miles.

It was on my "maybe" list.... and even though I haven't discounted it altogether, I have put it on the back burner for now.

Not trying to be negative, but bringing up the subject is only going to create more controversy. There are other threads that have detailed discussions about UD pulley. Check 'em out. But don’t expect a definitive answer - you'll have to draw your own conclusion.

 

k thanks

 

Underdrive pulleys have been around longer than most of the G owners have been alive here on this forum and its not rocket science how they work or what they're doing...

I read some of the posts and I can't believe how much BS is out there and how misinformed so many people are about UD pulleys!

Foremost, lets understand what they do and how they work. An undrive pulley system, "under drives" or in plain english slows down your accessories ( alternator, water pump, power steering pulleys) anywhere from 15% to 30%, which are known to "rob" power from your engine. Lets face it, anything else that your engine has to drive, is taking "power" away from your wheels. If you can get the engine to spin more freely, or with less restriction, you can not only build more power, but you can get more to the ground that way as well.

Now some say, this "slowing down" will hurt your cars alternator, water pump, etc, and plainly put - it won't hurt it or them (the engines accessories), but you just won't get the optimum current / flow / or response they were designed to produce. The performance world has always been a give and take business. You take from something to give to another. So if you under drive you engine, and have a crazy sound system, wel then you're cutting your alt/amp short, so in that sense its a not a good idea. If you're in an enviroment where its always hot as hell outside, and you under drive your water pump, well then that right there is not a good idea either, but also take into consideration the under drive ratio or percent. Usually speaking 15-20% isnt enough to really effect much.

For those who may want to run a supercharger (not turbo) you will have to remove the underdrive pulleys, as you wouldnt want to "under drive" a supercharger (slow it down = loss of power)...

Another factor is weight. Being that in most cases these under drive pulleys are designed out of lighter material and or smaller than their OEM counterpart, many believe this will throw off the intternal balance of the engine (specially the crank shaft) and I agree with that statement to a point. Just because its made out of lite weight aluminum doesnt mean its better for your applications. Depending on whether your crank is internally or externally (harmonic damper) balanced plays a HUGE roll on the long term effect under drive pulleys may have on your engine.

For the G, taking into consideration the engines size and weight, power, material (aluminum), crankshaft design, and the manor in which the engine runs the accessories on it, I don't see under drive pulleys effecting much in terms of reliability. They'll do the job, but just keep in mind what you're doing and what you don't want to do...

Now the WARRANTY factor!!!! If something goes wrong with your engine and or its accessories (and lets say its NOT your fault), alternator, water pump, power steering, crank shaft - whatever... The dealer may blame the pulleys, and in fact get away with it. I can see this going sour if the dealer says something like: "Because you "under drove" the alernator (or whatever accessories) it wasnt able to meet the needs of your headlights, your stereo, your whatever, and so the component fried, or burned out, or the water pump didnt have enough cooling flow to tend to your engine so it over heated, thermostat blew...", they can pass the buck to pretty much anywhere on your car that is controled or drive by the engine and its accessories. Sad but true, and the whole "they have to prove their case" well it wont be hard... Theres the under drive pulleys and here's what happen... Something more to consider about this mod... There is substantial "warrnty issues / risks"....

 

Man, I have a UR pulley waiting to be installed but now I'm contemplating whether or not I should get it installed! ARGH choices choices choices..

 

Forgive my lack of information on the G's crank pulley, but is the crank pulley and balancer one piece or is the pulley seperate from the balancer?

 

I knew it would open another can of worms... here it comes. Same story every time the uderdrive pulley question comes up...

 

well then don t answer and ignor it. some guys here are new and they have the right to ask. that s when we come in and help as good peeps man.

 

There's a god damn 2000post thread on this topic. SEARCH FOR IT!

 

the past threads were about pulleys not having dampers damaging the engine.
since wat ductiguy is saying is totally different, could it be irrelevant to those with the pulley?

 

Yes, there is an elastomer ring that is sandwiched inside the pulley. The pulley itself is actually a two piece design held together by the thin elastomer ring.

It is not a balancer though. You can't "balance" engine harmonics. The elastomer ring is actually a damper that quells torsional crank vibrations experienced during piston firing. Nearly every late model care on the market uses this type of sandwiched elastomer ring as a damper. EVERY late model engine is interally balanced and "interally balanced" is ALWAYS being misconstrued as meaning the crank has no harmonics. This couldn't be further from the truth. All cranks have harmonic ranges regardless of how balanced the rotating assembly is. The crank damper brings the torsional vibration into a safe and reliable range. The nose end of the crank (opposite end of the flyweel/torque converter) bears the brunt of the harmonic range.

 

^^^ sounds about right to me...

Having gone out on a limb before and after doing my own research, I've decided to skip out on this whoppin' 2-3 rwhp (if that). Remember, since you dyno in 4th or 5th gear and you do it from 2500+ rpms, you cannot measure the gains of a UD pulley. Therefore you have to trust those with butt dynos.

The worst butt dyno I've seen so far is someone thinking they got 35rwhp with an intake and exhaust on their coupe.

 

Personally....I think it is one of the better mods I have done.

I notice no difference in vibration or AC performance.

I do have to be more careful not to bounce off the rev limiter because it revs so much faster.

 

You misunderstood my point. I realize the guy is new and I'm not flaming him for the question. The fact his he was looking for input and possibly a definitive. As you can see (here and elsewhere) you will get 50/50 feedback. My point to original post is he will not get the answer he was looking for - and based on the posts already coming in, I was right.

 

they should still cut these guys some slack man. it wouldn t bother me if i see the same thread during the winter