My 19" PIAA Super Rozza's are killing me in a bad way.

With some slicks (or drag radials) and some smaller diameter/lighter rims I could get my times down by quite a bit.

Also, once the weather drops, my times should also drop by ~0.3 sec. This hot/humid FL weather sucks for drag racing. Plus our only local track is 20+ years old and it has dips/bumps etc... all over the place.

For the record: I have a hard time believing that anyone in a 3500 pound car could get 60" times ~1.6. Not saying it's impossible, but I can say that I've never seen it.

 

Neff even with those 19's you should hit low 13 if not high 12. I think Randy is low 13's on a Vortech. Your 0-60 should be better without all the torque of a TT to spin the tires when you launch. Dammit son, what's your major malfunction, I expect better next time. LOL.

 

So the gears alone put you into mid to low 13's? I need them in a bad way. Not a bad cost to performance ratio I must say.

 

No - the gears were actually the last mod I ahve done to the car...just did it a few weeks ago. I was low-mid 13's before them.

 

Oh yeah...where did you get them and did you DIY or have them installed?

EDIT: I guess from your last response they netted about +/- half a second from stock?

 

All the information you ever wanted to know is here:

https://g35driver.com/forums/reviews/54259-5at-3-5-final-drive-differential-swap.html

 

My mods in general gave me more than 1 sec - the gears gave me the rest.

 

IMSOL....

Reading your post is making me want to go out and get a nice set of drags. 13.8 is such a blah number for how much is done to my car. Cams/heads (next performance mod as FI is a lil outta my budget now that I just bought a house) will hopefully bring me down to the high 12s as well. 10k for FI (tuned) vs about 5k for cams/heads installed. Its such a dilemna.

 

The heads and cams didn't cost me that much - I did much of the work myself. It does cost about $1,000 for the head work, $1,400 for cams and about $800 for the R&R....but worth is when you can get the same FI times on motor only... ;-)

 

HOLY 3.9 GEARS BATMAN! 350evo.com is all of 15 minutes from my house LOL! Not only will I get gears but hell have them install it onsite!

 

how do those ps2's compare to the original tires? what size do you use up front? i want to keep the 19" rims but get differrent tires. thanx.

ps. have you ever dragged the car on the street tires?

 

Didn't Randy run that ~13.2 on his stock 18's with cooler temps? Also, since I have headers and the smaller dia. pulley, my car SHOULD be running a little faster than it is, that's for sure.

I seem to remember Randy using black powdercoat on either OEM 18's or 350z OEM 17's, but I'm not sure. Either way, I probably won't be drag racing the G much more in the future. After the JWT HD Clutch and light weight flywheel, what will be the point? I'm already having a hard time launching and getting a light weight flywheel will only make things harder.

 

ISMSOLUTIONS, can you give your impression of the stall converter alone? I've got a 5AT coupe with the LSD and really cannot justify $10k for FI. I would be happy with a 13 sec NA car.

I really would like to have something a little more fun to drive off the line though. Even with the VDC off and 12k miles on my PS2, I cannot get the car to peel out at all.

Any words of wisdom on going just with the TC? I am particularly interested in hearing about any downsides (because I have never read about any).

(All I have right now MOD-performance-wise is a K&N and 3/8" spacer with thermal kit). Many recommend the Crawford Cats - so I was thinking those with the TC would be my next best choices (for the best bang for the next $1000).

 

Well - the TQ converter will help to launch the car as it will stall out until about 3600 RPM instead of about 2800. You should get less traction off the line as well. I did mine when I did my gears, so I can't gauge that mod alone.

If you can't afford to put the gears in, then at least put the TQ converter in to help launch and get out of the G's trouble spot.

To get the best bang for the buck, IMO, go gears, tq converter, exhaust, crank pulley, 1/2" spacer, and Stillen CAI. You'll get all the bottom end power and conversion your likely looking for, better top end to match up as well.

Other than the above - cams and heads work wonders too.

 

Great info - thanks!

Can you specify TC specs besides the stall speed? I looked at the link you provided in one of your other posts for the TC and I didn't see a product in the catalog specifically for the G35/350Z - perhaps I missed it. Specs would be great so I know what to shop for...

I figure an additional tranny cooler is required. Anything else? (Just for the TC mod).