The final bill we be fair on both ends.There is alot of labor involved in removing and reinstalling an entire motor and Twin turbo kit on a car. I can tell you this, it will be a learning lesson on his part on the importance of quality work and maintainance of a F/I car. I believe you asking him what he is paying is a bit out of line in repsect for our customer relationship and his own personal finances.

 

What's UDP?
You guys talking about the UR pulleys?

 

for the 11th billion time, the stock pulley has no damper in it whatsoever - the small rubber isolator is there ONLY to quiet the noise of the accessory belts. You can choose to believe it or not, but it does not change the facts. You can hang whatever you like off either end of the external portions of the crank - so long as that item is balanced to the tightest possible tolerances, everything will stay together.

Perhaps the culprit here was tuning (or lack thereof), or the mere fact that forced induction on these cars, while fun and enjoyable, is a risk, just as it is on every other car where you go from NA to FI.....

ding ding ding - therein lies the culprit. Unless the rod saw copious amounts of daylight, the source of the issue likely rests here.

As MRC stated, this just proves, once again, that FI on these cars is not an inexpensive proprosition. These are the same exact issues that EVERYONE goes through when they try to introduce forced induction where it was not present from the factory. Some people get lucky, yes, lucky, and will enjoy years of trouble free running. Most however, will experience some level of difficulty - whether it's a leaking return line from a cheap fitting, a cracked manifold from running too lean, a rod that decides its had enough of the dark and dreary world of the block and wants to "see what's out there". This scenario exemplifies why it is is CRUCIAL to pick your tuner/installer, and use what they trust, rather than spending countless hours figuring out what turbo is the better choice, or who's kit makes more peak HP at 6216 rpm. A good shop will take all precautions into consideration when prepping a car for forced induction, and insist on not cutting corners - and even then, there is a distinct possibility that the motor can still let go - it is something a good shop will drill into the head of the customer. This sceanrio also exemplifies while routing maintenance schedules are crucial - more so when you are looking to double the output of a motor without touching it's internals.

Good luck MRC - hopefully you guys can get this guy back on the road quickly, and this time, with a nice motor to suit. MRC is a good shop and knows this motor very well, so I have no doubt the customer will be taken care of

 

I have to disagree. If he doesn't want to share, that's fine. That's his business. But there are a *lot* of people curious about FI, and the fact it, it's gard to get an idea on the *real* cost of going FI. If para did decide to share the information, it could only be fore the good of those of us considering FI.

 

the real cost of FI? Simply put, the real cost of FI, in most scenarios, is having about 2 x the amount your initial bill is in reserve for when something lets go. In other words, if the quote you get for your intial forced induction choice with install is, let's say $10k - I would recommend having another
$10k sitting in reserve in the event of something catastrophic.

 

i for one have never seen a car burn as much oil as this did on me.. i wasnt expecting what i got.. but **** now i know. as soon as its back up in running some where in the 500hp + range.. im sure ill forget all about this downtime..

 

I would say, to share the cost of his bill would be unrealistic to those who wish to go FI,it is not a good guidline to go by, as when you do the whole build up at once,rather than fixing a blown motor,you save money. The costs can not really be compaired. when you ask Jimmy in the end what his overall cost were,they will obviously be much higher than if he had done it all in one shot the first time. This of course would be taken out of context for those who wish to see it that way, and obviously would look as if OUR prices were high,which they are not...Not to mention that this whole topic is OFF topic as to the original thread..

 

The connecting rod utilizes the same old style "BOLT" as I have seen in the past 6 2003 motors we took apart. As far as i know, Jimmy had an 05 6mt G35, which I assume was supposed to have this high rev feature. So what Im saying is, unless someone has their info wrong or Infinity failed to put the correct motor in his car, there are no visible differences in the internals on his car. His car has the variable timing on both cams, therefore I was under the impression it was the high rev 300hp motor.

 

it better be rev up motor or im suing infiniti.. lol plus my rpm dosnt redline till 7000+ and dont say "had an 05 6mt g35" shes not completely gone just getting a boobjob

 

I like *****

 

For the 11th trillion time, the fact that the rotating assembly is balanced (as most any late motor is) has nothing to do with the harmonics and torsional load placed on the crank as the combustion chambers are fired. I challange you to prove to me that the stock pulley is not a damper. I've got a whole load of information I can post up showing you that the crank pulley is in fact a damper. Every late model (1990+) engine I've ever seen has a elastomer ring sandwiched inside two seperate pulleys to form one unit and these pulleys are referred to as dampers. You'll also notice 4 to 5 dimples on the back side of the pulley. Those dimples balance the pulley to the weight of the crank.

I beg the question, if that elastomer ring was really there to quell belt noise (which makes sense), then why is the crank pulley the ONLY one with this design. All the other pulleys are solid one piece units. Does that really make sense?

A flywheel/torque converter act as a damper on drive end of the crank. So how are the harmonics and torsional load going to be negated on the other end of the crank? ....with a crank damper pulley.

 

I find it rather convenient for an anti crank pulley'er to pull out the emminent doom argument when there's a FI car involved that was 3 quarts low. Causation mean anything to you.

 

Did the car have a real oil pressure gauge? I mean when I went ***** out on my wrx the car got a egt, oil pressure and a more accurate boost gauge. I would think a oil pressure gauge would've been letting you know something was up...BUT still where did all that oil go? Was there a faulty return line and it ran down the side of the block or turbo? I mean thats alot of oil to loose and I would assume that it happened rapidly. I mean the thing I would be more concerned with is where all that went?

But with that being said I will be talking to you guys about getting my second car outfitted with a utec.

 

We just got our car back from Turbo XS and are running a prototype UTEC right now.We went to the track on Sunday but broke an axle at the line We will be going back on Wed night to see whats up..
We feel this engine was not maintained as properly as an F/I car needs to be..We also checked the rod bolts,they are still bolts but they are a bit bigger than the 03's..

 

please check this thread in regards to the piston/heads issue..
http://www.my350z.com/forum/showthre...6&page=2&pp=20