Engine Dying
Engine Dying
I live in So Cal and I have a 04 AT coupe with MD spacer, K&N, and Z-tube mods. Lately, I have been experiencing the engine to quit on me immediately after engine start-up. It would crank up fine and then a second or two later it quits running. I have to start the car a second time. Any one know the root cause for this problem that I've been experiencing? Related to my mods? I've had my mods for a good year now and it didn't do that to me before. I don't want to take in my car to the dealer just yet. I want to see if my mods has anything to do with it. If it does I will have to remove at the very min. the MD spacer so my warranty does not void.
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 30,341
Likes: 9
From: Cambridge, Ont. Canada
Originally Posted by GEE PASTA
Drink plenty of fluids, Get more rest, Clean your MAF sensor with alcohol. And let all the doctors here on driver, know if you still have the symptom's.
hahahaha, good one Dennis......and he might run some fuel injector cleaner thru too.........
C.
I have a question about this, if this problem is due to oil from the K&N filter getting on the MAF with his Z-Tube, then would it be safe to say that the CAI like the Injen would be less likely to experience this because the filter is so far from the MAF sensor?
It is a random occurance. Doesn't matter hot or cold? It happens sometimes and I have not notice a pattern.
When it happens it starts and then there is an immediate drop in rpm and then it engine quits. The second start usually is fine, then the idle seems to be normal.
I did recently clean my filter and oil it. So it sounds like it could be oil on the MAF. Doc......I will try cleaning it and see if it persists and I will call you in the morning to let you know.
Thank you for the advice.
When it happens it starts and then there is an immediate drop in rpm and then it engine quits. The second start usually is fine, then the idle seems to be normal.
I did recently clean my filter and oil it. So it sounds like it could be oil on the MAF. Doc......I will try cleaning it and see if it persists and I will call you in the morning to let you know.
Thank you for the advice.
Trending Topics
i had same problem with injen cai
anyway my MAF sensor had some problem so i went to deler and fixed
oh yeah dont go cerritos dealer they gonna charge u at least $600 or more(cause they gonna say its not gonna cover by warranty) anyway i fixed my car at tustin and they fixed my car for free
anyway my MAF sensor had some problem so i went to deler and fixed
oh yeah dont go cerritos dealer they gonna charge u at least $600 or more(cause they gonna say its not gonna cover by warranty) anyway i fixed my car at tustin and they fixed my car for free
Okay I clean the MAF with alcohol and the problem seems to persist. I have noticed that the engine dying or almost dying (rpm drops to a low and then the computer compensate with either air or fuel to keep the engine from quitting) when the engine is warm. Do I just have a MAF problem or could it be something else. What else could it be?
If I were to take my car into the dealer should I remove the MD spacer and my K&N filter before taking the car in so that they will not blame the aftermarket add-ons and void any warranty?
If I were to take my car into the dealer should I remove the MD spacer and my K&N filter before taking the car in so that they will not blame the aftermarket add-ons and void any warranty?
I had your problem either in the morning or after work, especially after the car was parked for a certain period of time. This problem happened after I swaped my stillen intake for the factory one because my original problem was that when I started the engine on the first try in the morning, my car wouldn't start, (no cranking sound, just 100% dead silence without movement) I would have to wait for a mint, then the car would start good. If we are having the same problem then I would say that your car will start but once you start the car, your rpm will drop to min of 6000 or 7000 but a second later your rpm will just drop to 0.
However, after I read the owner's Manual, I found out that the 2004 G35 is equip with a vehicle immobilizer and it is recommended that the keyfob is not placed for an extended period of time in an area where the temperature exceeds 140F (60C). I live in an apt where I get free heat in the winter. I try to place my key near the window and that seems to work better with my engine and idel trouble. I also took it to the dealer and told them the problem without mentioning the temp of keyfob, and after they checked it they said that my car was in good condition there wasn't anything wrong. So I think if that worked for me then you should try it. Now I installed back my Stillen intake and everything works well, just like new. In the meantime I placed my keyfob far way from any heat source. If you have any other questions then email me at bobshuai@hotmail.com.
However, after I read the owner's Manual, I found out that the 2004 G35 is equip with a vehicle immobilizer and it is recommended that the keyfob is not placed for an extended period of time in an area where the temperature exceeds 140F (60C). I live in an apt where I get free heat in the winter. I try to place my key near the window and that seems to work better with my engine and idel trouble. I also took it to the dealer and told them the problem without mentioning the temp of keyfob, and after they checked it they said that my car was in good condition there wasn't anything wrong. So I think if that worked for me then you should try it. Now I installed back my Stillen intake and everything works well, just like new. In the meantime I placed my keyfob far way from any heat source. If you have any other questions then email me at bobshuai@hotmail.com.
i had the same problem. what i noticed was that i would turn on the car and drive till i got to my first stoplight and the car would not rev and then just die. after that i would turn the car off and restart fine. the dealer said that i was the z tube that i put on and i must have had the car retimed. BS. the ecu would reset to stock if i retimed the car. they finally said that there are problems with the MAF unit and that they replaced it under warrenty. i hope that helps.
Thank you all for the input each of you has submitted to help me with my problem.
Although all of our symptoms are different it seems to me like the common problem is the MAF.
If anyone have the same exact problem that I am facing I would like to hear about it and your solution.
I will definitely share my fix when I know what that is.
Thanks again!
Although all of our symptoms are different it seems to me like the common problem is the MAF.
If anyone have the same exact problem that I am facing I would like to hear about it and your solution.
I will definitely share my fix when I know what that is.
Thanks again!
has any one experienced trouble start the engine? At random times when I insert the key and start ( while the clutch is compressed ) nothing happens, sometimes it will take me up to 3 4 times to start the engine.
Does anybody know what is going on with my car?
Does anybody know what is going on with my car?
Hmmm. I have the 1/2" MD, Z-Tube, and K/N and never had this one happen. Have you checked for small vacuum leaks that may have developed? Loose clamps/connectors? I think if it was the MAF being bad/fouled, it would always be bad/fouled. Not just during startup.
Spray some starting fluid around the MD spacer, the 6 upper plenum bolts, and all of the connectors on the intake (including the one under the Z-Tube) while the engine is running. If it increases in RPM at all, you have a leak.
If not, then try the MAF. I would just go down and get one from the dealer and change it yourself. Its only 2 torx screws. That way, you dont have to involve the dealer in your mods. If it still doesnt fix it, then you might have to go back to stock for a while until they can figure it out.
Spray some starting fluid around the MD spacer, the 6 upper plenum bolts, and all of the connectors on the intake (including the one under the Z-Tube) while the engine is running. If it increases in RPM at all, you have a leak.
If not, then try the MAF. I would just go down and get one from the dealer and change it yourself. Its only 2 torx screws. That way, you dont have to involve the dealer in your mods. If it still doesnt fix it, then you might have to go back to stock for a while until they can figure it out.



