MREV mod fiasco:I stripped 4-5 of the threads of my manifold collector!!
For such small TQ specs, the bar/lever/pendulum (whatever you want to call it) type of TQ wrench is great. As you turn the wrench, a long metal pointer points to a reading on a graduated scale (metal tab). They usually read inch-pounds and Newton Meters, which is great for these Japanese cars.
Always hated the click-wreches!
Always hated the click-wreches!
Originally Posted by codeflux
OMFG... that's why i don't want to do this myself. i'd rather pay someone (zcargarage? 
) $100 to do it.
) $100 to do it.
if you work on cars long enough, your goign to break a few bolts and strip threads - fact of life. it's not really that big of deal, just do what everyone is recomending ... at least u didn't 'loose' a bolt in the engine
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I used a 1/4 inch palm rachet when I installed my mrev. Not as accurate as an inch pound torque wrench, but it is a much more common tool. As long as you turn with just your wrist and forearm you should not have a problem. (unless your name is Barry Bonds or Jason Giambalco)
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From: Los Angeles California
Originally Posted by RedondoG
Not to hijack this thread but I'm putting my OEM Plenum back on tomorrow. Can someone give me the torque recommendation for the bolts?
Its basically 100 inch pounds all around. Are you removing the Kinetix? How come?
A little advice on using a new tool. Check to see how it works before you use it.
I was expecting a louder click on my in-lb torque wrench. I realized that it is a slight click, and the handle actually moves when the torque is reached.
I used it for my mrev, but i returned it because I wanted more of a "click" type TW.
I was expecting a louder click on my in-lb torque wrench. I realized that it is a slight click, and the handle actually moves when the torque is reached.
I used it for my mrev, but i returned it because I wanted more of a "click" type TW.
I practiced with nuts on my garage door before working on the car - it helped alot. The thing about the torque wrenches is that some are hard to read and if you go below the min of 5 ft-lbs, then it seems to not click when it's supposed to. So to test I tightened a bolt to 10 ft-lbs and I know now that if I can loosen it, then something is wrong with the setting.
I still broke a bolt at around 90 inch lbs. Tony set me up with a replacement fast though. I only went to 80 next time around. No leaks so left it alone.
Just test it - simple enough...
I still broke a bolt at around 90 inch lbs. Tony set me up with a replacement fast though. I only went to 80 next time around. No leaks so left it alone.
Just test it - simple enough...
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I really liked Tony's suggestion of using a nut driver only with the final torque setting achieved using a glove. It was interesting that even after I tightened the bolts with my bare hands until it hurt, the glove gave me about another 1/8 turn to get up to the final spec. No stripping. No leaking. Why would you do it any way else?
Curt
Curt
Did nobody here read the instructions included w/ the MD Mrev??? It says that if you don't have a torque wrench or do not know how to use one, to use a nut driver which basically limits your ability to turn the bolts beyond 90 in lbs.
I, unfortunately, had neither handy last night. Instead, I used my speed wrench which also limits your ability to turn the bolts, but you still have to be very careful. I also have the added advantage of working in a calibration lab and "knowing" what 100 in lb feels like - I've calibrated 1000s of torque wrenches.
I didn't have a single stripped bolt. 
I, unfortunately, had neither handy last night. Instead, I used my speed wrench which also limits your ability to turn the bolts, but you still have to be very careful. I also have the added advantage of working in a calibration lab and "knowing" what 100 in lb feels like - I've calibrated 1000s of torque wrenches.
I didn't have a single stripped bolt.
Really sorry to hear of your problems...
Just wanted to mention that MD and Infiniti instructions tell you to repeat the tightening sequence, progressively increasing the torque. Hate to say this after the fact but you should have been able to learn how your torque wrench worked had you done that my friend.
Heli-coil, as stated above, is best solution in my opinion. Hope that by now you got this fixed and didn't involve the dealer.
Just wanted to mention that MD and Infiniti instructions tell you to repeat the tightening sequence, progressively increasing the torque. Hate to say this after the fact but you should have been able to learn how your torque wrench worked had you done that my friend.
Heli-coil, as stated above, is best solution in my opinion. Hope that by now you got this fixed and didn't involve the dealer.
I actually read the instructions very carefully, and specifically went out and bought an inch/lbs torque wrench for this job. I've used my ft/lbs torque wrench thousands of times int he past and know what the click is like, but managed to snap one of the long bolts during my spacer install.
Fortunately, there doesn't seem to be a leak, and the car runs fine, but I'd like to get it fixed.
It seems like a helicoil is the way to go for retapping, but how do I get the snapped part of the bolt out? Is this something I should just take to a garage and get them to remove and retap, and then I can re-install the spacer myself (i was very careful with the rest of the bolts, and feel much more comfortable now)?
Thoughts?
Fortunately, there doesn't seem to be a leak, and the car runs fine, but I'd like to get it fixed.
It seems like a helicoil is the way to go for retapping, but how do I get the snapped part of the bolt out? Is this something I should just take to a garage and get them to remove and retap, and then I can re-install the spacer myself (i was very careful with the rest of the bolts, and feel much more comfortable now)?
Thoughts?