Good call. I did my first oil change on my Coupe at 1000 mi. I put in Amsoil 0-30 W Sever Service Oil. You are correct, Amsoil is 100% engineered synthetic, poly-alpha-olefin. Other "synthetic" oils are hydro cracked, mineral based oil. Although still good oil, they simply can not perform to the level of Amsoil. The greatest advantage to going with Amsoil is the protection it affords your engine, not necessarily the longer oil change interval (my opinion). I use Amsoil in my other 2 cars, it is cheap insurance for your investment.

G35 Coupe/ Red/ 6-Spd/ Premium/ 20"Wheels

"When the only tool you own is a hammer, every problem begins to resemble a nail."
- Abraham Maslow (1908-1970)

 

I use Quaker State Synthetic. Anyone ever hear anything about Quaker State? Is it bad oil or anything or am I fine with it if I change it every 4000miles or so?

Thanks - Joey Avino

 

chinee, in your case, you may be better served by installing bypass filters and running Amsoil (or even the other, better synthetics) and running 15k-25k drain intervals. I wouldn't do it without the bypass filter, though.

2003.5 G35 Sedan Desert Platinum/Graphite Premium/Sport/Aero/Nav/Winter

 

ryoken... I like things simple, no bypass filters for me. 7500 miles, although an "extended" interval, is pretty conservative, but does afford me the little extra convenience I'm looking for. Although it's been shown that Amsoil can go the 25K route, it's not for me....7.5K with Mobil1 suits me just fine (I may even investigate a 10K ODI interval).

Having peace of mind is a big part of my decision-making process.....

<font color=red>chinee</font color=red>
2003.5 G35s

 

I wouldnt suggest using 0w-30 I would suggest using 5w-30 the red label oil. Its much better and its a bit thicker oil then the 0w. I'm not sure where you are, but if you have somewhat warm/hot temperatures i would feel safer with 5w oil.

0w-30 is very good for gas milage other then that its a questionable as far as 0w goes since you do want the oil somewhat thicker.

I would personally not go above 7,500 miles on the oil. ALthough many test have shown that under normal driving conditions....that includes NOT pushing the car ... just regular highway driving You can safely go 10,000 miles on the oil. But 5,000 - 7,500 is a perfect interval.

I would invest into good filters such as FRAM 2 or Mobil 1 or Amsoil they are really well made filters and should not be overlooked. Oil is only good as the filter you use.

2003 G35C

 

so I have the "cheap" mobil 1 from walmart... but I am interesetd in Amsoil... just wondering where to get this fabled wonder oil and how long between changes with it?

G35C - 6MT - DG/G - Premium

 

Get Amsoil here...... http://www.amsoil.com/

 

what is everyone's opinion on a good oil for my G which will see limited duty....maybe 3000 miles a year..and that is pushing it.

KevinG35
2003 Diamond Graphite G35 Sport Coupe, 5AT, Premium Pkg, Performance Pkg.

 

Just switched to amsoil yesterday, I was running mobil1 in it before. I am lucky enough that I can buy Amsoil in a store on rt.59. Not sure what town it is but its between suffern and tallman in rockland ny.

 

Synthetic works. I have always used mobil one in my better cars. On a 1981 Crysler Cordoba that was running hot, the Mobil 1 protected the engine. I didn't run it extensively but long enough that would have caused damage to other cars with regular oil. As stated, you can send your oil to a lab for
analysis but scientific studies have already proven that syntheitcs work. The cost factor is not the main concern but the protection it offers your engine. Countless engines taken apart after several thousand miles of synthetic use has shown litlle or no wear. So the few extra dollars saves thousands of dollars. Good fortune with your choice.

 

I emailed Amsoil what they recommend. Here's the response:

"We recommend the use of our AMSOIL Series 2000 0W30 Severe Service Motor oil (product code TSO). This premium motor oil protects better in high temperatures than do the higher viscosity conventional and synthetic oils. Series 2000 retains excellent fluidity in extremely low temperatures, so it flows quickly and reliably to allow easy starting and immediate lubrication protection. This product may be used year round and is not affected by high ambient temperatures.

"The G35 manual transmission fluid spec does not appear in the lube guide for whatever reason. We will need to know the spec from your owner’s guide in order to cross reference the correct product.

"Our XL7500 series products are our entry level short service oils. They have a service life of 7500 miles or six months, whichever comes first.

"Thank you,"

Jim Van
AMSOIL Technical Services

 

Got a question, if I change syth oil every 6000 miles, do I change the filter every 3000 or every 6000?

2003 G35 Coupe 6mt Diamond Graphite
AIM= bkchang79

 

Change the filter with the oil... it is not necessary to change the filter more often than that.

<font color=red>chinee</font color=red>
2003.5 G35s

 

Man, after 3 years on the ClubLexus site I hoped I'd seen the last of the syn vs conventional oil threads! As an engineer with Shell ( who DOESN'T make a synthetic oil - shame on us! ) & is responsible for the maintenance of rotating equipment running 24/7/365, here's my real world & lab experiences. Syns work - PERIOD! They break down at higher temps ( thus lessening carbon deposits; ie, "coking" ) & flow at lower temps ( as in the first morning startup where 80-85% of an engine's wear occurs because the oil's still down in the pan ). I had an 1987 'Vette with digital gauges & during break-in, it took 3-5 seconds before the oil presssure gauge registered pressure with the factory fill non-syn Mobil oil; aka as "Mr. Goodwrench". After a 5k break-in period, I switched to Mobil One 5W-30 & with ambient temps within a degree or 2 of the aforementioned starts, my Corvette showed oil pressure as quickly as 1-2 seconds after I began cranking the car. At work, we switched from Texaco synthetic oils in our compressors & generators ( which run non-stop ) to a conventional Texaco oil & soon began to have lubrication related failures of bearings. Once we changed the bearings we refilled the crankcases with Syn-Texaco oils & they're still running fine! I've seen independent dyno tests which show that, as stated before, Royal Purple & Amsoil register the most power gains with Red Line & Mobil One right behind. Beware of blends as the SAE hasn't decided exactly how much of a blend is accurate. Some blends have only 5% syn while others give you a more balanced ratio. Lastly, I have a friend who works for Mobil & races on weekends ( mostly autocross ) & here's his suggestion to blunt the expense of using syns. Change your oil AND filter & go 5k miles; change JUST the filter & go another 5k then begin the process again at step #1. Most synthetics are good for up to 25k miles as long as they're kept clean; hence the more frequent filter changes. Also, your driving habits dictate the frequency as well. If U do lots of highway driving ( where the oil gets hot enough to evaporate the condensation that builds up in the crankcase & oil pan ) then this schedule should be just fine. If U do mostly stop-n-go driving then perhaps more frequent changes should suffice. Because a synthetic is man-made, the molecules are of equal size & shape so it's biggest advantage is protection. Finally ( about time, huh! ), it was once true that if U switched to syns then U couldn't go back. It wasn't because of the oil but rather the engine's seal material makeup. The older seals would swell somewhat with conventional oil but not with syns & this caused the perception that "syns cause leaks". With better materials in the automotive arena today, it's no longer a concern.
Bottom line seems to be for each of us to determine the "cost versus protection" issue for ourselves & apply it. Good luck with your decisions!

 

Phew.......I need a ciggy after reading all that!
Thanks for the info!