APS ST, APS TT, Turbonetic ST, Greddy TT, JWT TT, SFR TT..

which one u guys recommend??

 

I recommend the Vortech TT kit.

 

does TT have more lags than single T

 

I thought Vortech only makes superchargers?

 

wut???? Vortech TT?? lol

 

There is no single "best" for all applications. Otherwise only one would be recommended and in business, or they would all be the same. And they most certainly are not all the same. What is "best for you" is all that matters, and that depends on how you are going to use it. Can you lay out in some detail how you intend to be driving the car so we can give you some informed feedback? Otherwise you are just going to get a lot of random replies.

 

Eagle, is that your ride in SCC? Man what a machine! I did see that a total price of $100K was quoted in the mag. Is that for real?! or just a typo?

 

Definetly look into APS TT

 

Like everyone sals depends on what you are looking for in a kit.

 

That's a new one, lol.

When are Vortech and TN FINALLY going to come out with kits for the revup engine? So many TN ST blown motors - I thought it was supposed to be the most reliable setup? Without building the engine... that's a tough one. Stillen?

 

Yes, that is the car in SCC, and also C16 Autostyle this month. Not a typo.
There is a lot more in the beast than just the motor build and TT, or the typical upgrades that VRT puts into their cars, which is why there is a difference. (You can get their package for around $67,000 "all in").

None of the elements individually is especially high cost, but collectively they add up. Some, but not all, of the other stuff is:
Instrumentation and custom built mounting for it.
Seats and harnesses.
Thermal barrier coatings.
Amsoil BMK-13 Dual bypass oil filtration system.
Fluidamper harmonic balancer for the crankshaft.
ATS triple carbon disc clutch and 10 lb flywheel.
Carbon fiber hood.
Extra sets of wheels and tires.(3)
Trailer for going to the farther away tracks.
Additional suspension mods, like nismo bushings, front and rear strut tower braces, special racing adjustable front upper control arms, etc.
Upgrades to cooling system and hoses, Koyo aluminum radiator, Setrab oil cooler, upgraded power steering cooler (that one pumps so hard you can see the reserve bottle pulsing at idle!).
Iso thermal plenum.
Custom fabricated roll and harness bar.
Short shifter, drilled pedals, J&S ultrasafeguard, datalogger, etc etc etc.

The mission set upon is not for everyone. This was a project to create a car that can be driven to work, and then taken to the track and run HARD, and then driven to work the next day. That is way more challenging than making a high performance street queen. (I like show cars, don't take it the wrong way, but most of them would suffer total break down if put to what this car goes through) It has to hold up and be durable as well as fast. Running flat out with a 200 lb passenger for 25 minute sessions at Cal Speedway the past weekend, the temp never went above 105 degrees C, the brakes never faded, and we hit speeds over 140mph twice per lap and pulled lap times of 1:58 running the GrandAm Cup configuration with the ROVAL. (It would be a lot faster with a good driver behind the wheel!) Passed Ferrari 348 and 355 and Testarossa cars, Porsche Carrera, Evo, BMW M3, Subie etc. Did that several sessions on Saturday, and several more on Sunday. And can drive it in LA freeway traffic in a civil and manageable fashion during rush hour.

Dropped by Chili's in Monrovia on the way home for dinner with a buddy who has a Subie.

 

and you got your information from? like to read up on the why/how they're blowing their engines....overboost? incorrectly installed? looking into the tn s/t at the moment, so i'm very curious.....

edit;;

ok, back to o/p......best turbo? that can only be answered by what your looking to accomplish.........are you into the hp bragging rights? trailer queen? d/driver? track car? etc.........

here's my goal......daily driver, 360-380rwhp, and most importantly, a competent installer/shop and the best possible TUNE for what my car already have(crank pulley, 1/2" md spacer, Z mid-pipe and headers, which i might remove and put back oem due to less chance of cracking under boost)

 

Oh man... and I thought I alone. ... I'll agree with you whole-heartedly.

You won't find this for ANY turbo kit. But there's plenty of idle chatter and the pre-existing 'notion' that certain turbo kits are better than others. I've tried to pick at the Greddy turbo kit crap that seems to be floating around... and while some responses were helpful, I just got a 'find out for yourself' attitude.

I honestly believe no one cares to find out 'WHY', it's just easier for them to blame the kit and rebuild the motor(I guess everyone here has deep pockets and doesn't mind it?). So with that said, I say do the research for yourself... and don't believe everything you read, take all the rumors with a grain of salt. In the end, I think it all boils down to the tuner/installer. If you hire someone less knowledgeable to install the kit... then the probability of something going wrong is higher.

I don't think you can go wrong with any of the pre-built kits out there... but you need to reduce the margin for error by picking a solid installer. I would also go another step and glance over your kit and make sure there are no casting flaws, and keep up with all the parts to make sure the installer didn't try to use any 'shortcuts'.

 

+1.........

ANY f/i engine can and will blow if you've got folks tinkering w/it vs having it installed by people who know what they're doing.......so, at the very least, i'll have boost, oil and a/f guages, don't want to be running blind.....