Has anyone here actually put a turbo on a 5at g35?? Is this even safe? I'm seriously thinking about giving my g35 some more power, but i really don't want to blow it up. If it can be safely done, i'm all in for it!

 

Adding forced induction is always taking a risk with certain things. Safety wise, Id go with a supercharger, its much safer on the motor.

 

Yes it can be done, but as with everything that has to do with FI, there are risks. Keep your boost conservative (around 360 WHP) and the stock tranny should be ok. Anything near or above 400 whp and you'll want to think about a valve body upgrade and maybe a torque converter.

I of course recommend giving VRT a call since you're in SoCal.

https://g35driver.com/forums/forced-induction/91129-jwt-twins-my-5at-vrt.html

 

nice work rone! yea, i was looking for something likes yours near 400hp would be nice if it could be done safely, but what about the price $$ . I've seen kits installed for 5-7k , i saw yours at 14k ... what do you suggest for the cheapest but safest FI ?

is a supercharger cheaper and safer?

 

Without the extras VRT can get you into the kit for around $10k. But if I wanted to save a few bucks I'd probably look at the Stillen if you are willing to change out your hood. You don't see too many problems with a stage 2 Stillen SC, but you don't see all that much HP either. And it's upgradeabilty is still questionable. But as with all SCs you have to worry about belt problems.

 

id have to say the stillen,ive got over 23,000 miles on it and still running great.(knocking on wood at this time) the hood looks good in person but terrible on the site.and the sound of a roots blower is music to the ears.if you want more power go with the vortech.

 

The sound of a roots blower is awful cool, I'll definitely give you that.

 

thanks roneski!

how much gains on the stillen? Im assuming stage 4 would be the best for a 5at? or is that just the newest one.

Superchargedg, if i was to get a supercharger how much do you think i'll be looking in spending.

how are your belts? only drawbacks i can see are belts slipping if it's not done right. but i think they've overcome that at this point right?

 

All SC belts should be checked often and at least tightened every few thousand miles. Youre probably looking at a venture of about 10 unless if you can buy the stuff used in good condition. Im selling my vortech now. Ran into some money issues.

 

the small s/c belt i change about every 8-10,000 miles,the larger belt just when it needs it.every now and again the p/s - alt belt stretches and has to be readjusted but thats it.cost for stage 2 is $5400.00 i beleive,i installed mine myself but labor anywere from 10-12 hours.no tuning is involved its plug and play.sorry i have no way of posting a dyno sheet but on a dynapack (which i hear is a little high) i got 341rwhp and 318rwt.on a dynojet i think they would be a little lower,but thats it for power with this kit there is no more.a vortech on the other hand has the same #,s out of the box and can get you much higher power.i love my kit for the driving i do,you just have to decide what type driving you will be doing with it.good luck

 

Forget safe - think risk management!

The first two questions you need to answer for yourself are, How much WHP and torque do I want? and Will I want an increase in the future?

The answers to these questions will determine what needs to be done to the tranny and the engine, but at the very least, the tranny valve body should be upgraded (~$1K). OEM engine internals start to be at risk at about 400WHP or somewhat less. A quality TT like APS, plus engine upgrade will be in the range of $15K, depending on fringes.

Talk to the experts in these areas, keeping in mind that after-install-tuning (in combination with the octane of the gas you use) is one of the most important issues that will determine how long your engine survives. I recommed that you contact SGP Racing in Houston, GRD Racing in Naperville, IL, Forged Internals in Atlanta and Level 10 in Hamburg, NJ.

http://sgpracing-store.stores.yahoo.net/index.html

http://www.grdperformance.com/showcase_g35.aspx

http://www.forgedinternals.com/main.htm

http://www.levelten.com/bullet_proof.htm

After talking to them, you will have the necessary information base to make decisions that will allow you to reasonably manage the risks.

 

ALL AT transmission are rated by TORQUE CAPACITY in the case of G35 it is 333 lb/ft peak. 333/260= 28%/6.8 [1.0psi equivalent] = ~~4.0 psi [temperature corrected to 60F] max at where ever torque peak rpm occurs [4400].

Normally a 6 psi radial supercharger creates no more than 1.5 -2.5 psi at 4400.........luckily some of the engine torque goes to drive the supercharger [20-25 lb/ft] so this provides additional safety.

Normally one would expect 150,000 miles from a well maintained averagely driven 5AT...........exceeding the torque standard frequently will of course reduce life by a 4 to 16 factor.

Because to always have a [ebay junkyard JDM] spare on hand as from the dealer the unit will run $3,500+

 

exceeding torque standard frequently?? does tha tmean installing a S/C or S/T and T/T?? Or does tha tmean simply driving the car hard??? my G is NA but I drive it hard...

 

I'd also add a tranny cooler. They're cheap, easy to install.

 

AT units are tested to survive 100,000 shifts or 70,000 miles...........how many shifts per mile do you utilize...........why commuter traffic is so hard vs interstate highway where you might not have a shift for 100-300 miles.