80hp-- dang, that's like... a whole Saturn!

G

2003.5 Black w/ Willow G35
Premium / Sport / Aero / Winter / Navi / Tint

 

According to Federal law ( Moss-Magnuson Act ) no aftermarket part can "void" a manufacturer's waranty unless it can be shown that the aftermarket part caused the failure. Clearly, a blown transmission could be blamed on the supercharger, since the engine is making far more power than the trans was designed for. But worn steering parts or a brake line failure would not be "voided" by the S/C. You might get into a argument with a specific dealer, or not. My Paxton-blown 2000 Dodge had an intake manifold gasket fail, and the dealer still replaced it free.

 

the vortech kit and greddy TT kits are ready for sale.

 

OMFG ROFL HAHAHAHA LMAO LOL

"a whole saturn"

Thanks - Joey Avino

 

yeah or two kia sephia. umm.. ok.. i killed it.

hahah

anyways we now have the option for DreamWorks S/C making 400 to the crank with 5pounds of boost. best of all.. 3 years warranty with carb certification

Friends don't let friends drive stock

 

i was pumped about the DW one with the warrenty when i read it was through a 3rd party. the warrenty is not an infiniti warrenty but on through some out side company. Basicaly 5.5 and 400 at the crank is not so good. If it was a warrenty though infiniti i would be like hell yeah but if its not i will stick to the PE kit. cuz the PE is making 400 or somthing to the wheels with 5.6 psi which is a lot more efficent.

 

First of all...this is my first post. I love this site! I'm currently in the market for a G35 coupe and have been getting most of my modification information from the 350Z sites. Glad I stumbled on to this site. Currently driving a '98 Camaro SS (slightly modified). Anyways...on to my post.....

I think the PE kit is using just over 7 psi (0.5gm/cm2) for their 400 rwhp numbers. Also, I think they are rated at 400 rwPS. If I'm not mistaken that is a different unit of measure. I'm guessing 390 rwHP. I'm also guessing that this was not a totally stock naturally aspirated setup before the addition of the turbos. Theoretically, a car putting down 240 rwhp (or so) should only make around 360 rwhp with 7psi and that is with a very efficient setup. I'm sure they increased their naturally aspirated numbers (cams, heads, throttle body, exhaust, etc...) prior to adding the turbos.

The GReddy kit uses around 10 psi (0.7 bar) for it's 417 rwhp numbers. That is closer to the numbers of adding a turbo setup to a stock motor (threoretically).

Then again....I could be wrong. :*)

'Los

 

welsome carlitos

I would never go more than 5.5 psi on our motor without any pistons/rods work done (about 26 hours of labor + parts). 7 psi is pushing it , but it will still last about 120K-150K miles instead of 200K+ miles.

Also, the PE kit makes 400rwHP on a 350z at 7psi boost. know theguys who designed this kit from the ground up. At this boost (above 5.5) the ECU upgrade is a must because they encountered detonation. So they tweaked the ECU for the proper tiings in the upper rpm band to get everyhting to be junky dorry! I
Gurgen

<P ID="edit"><FONT class="small"><EM>Edited by gurgenpb on 11/12/03 01:07 PM.</EM></FONT></P>

 

Thanks for the welcome, gurgenpb!

Are you aware of any other modifications done to the PE motor prior to the turbos? The reason I ask relates to the boost theory I was speaking of earlier....:

As we all know, our engines are basically just air pumps. In naturally aspirated (NA) form they are working at atmospheric pressures (1 atm ~ 14.7psi ~1.0bar). If you were to boost an engine at 7psi (or ~ 0.5bar) over atmospheric pressure, you would have approximately 50% more air moving through the engine. To prevent damage to the engine, the ECU (should) detect this change in airflow and add approx 50% more fuel creating about 50% more power. And this is with 100% efficiency. Likewise, a turbo boosting 15psi should move twice as much air and create twice as much power. So a vehicle making 240rwhp NA (such as most dynos of the 350Z/G35s that I have seen) should make 240rwhp x 1.5 (50% more incoming air) = 360rwhp. Again, that's with 100% efficiency. The GReddy kit seems to be more in line with this theory. They claim 417rwhp with about 10psi/0.7bar of boost. A NA motor making 240rwhp x 1.7 (70% more incoming air) = 408rwhp. Much closer to the numbers I would expect to see from a turbo on a stock VQ35.

Now you can get around the 100% eff by lowering the temperature of the intake charge before it goes into the engine (hence the aftercoolers/intercoolers). But to get those temps down to outdoor temps of <100 deg is pretty tough without icing down the intake manifold or constantly adding ice to an aftercooler/intercooler.

I guess what I'm trying to say is that in order to get to 400rwhp with only 7psi (~0.5bar) the car would have to be making 400 / 1.5 (less the 50% boost in atm pressure) = 267 rwhp in NA form already. That's about 20-25rwhp more than any other stock motor I've seen. That's why I'm asking about other mods done to the motor to get to the approx 265-270rwhp needed to get 400rwhp with only 7psi boost. I'm guessing exhaust, intake, pulleys, intake manifold, throttle body and maybe a lightweight flywheel.

Then again there are always the "dyno tricks": Remove the air filter, use smaller lightweight rear wheels (less rotating mass), adding ice to the intake manifold, etc...nothing I would consider doing on a daily basis.

Sorry for such a long post. I'm just really curious to know how the kits stack up against each other.

'Los

 

Ok,

good reasoning!.

First let me state the facts... They made 400rwhp on a bone stock 350z (cheston's). THe kit comes howeveer with the bigger injectorr necessary to deliver the amount of fuel, a whole new fuel management system, higher capacity oil pan, etc.

Now let me try to explain this. On a normal dyno, the 350z 6mt makes 235rwhp. G35C makes ~228, while the G35S makes 217 (this is all on the machine belonging to DynoSpot Racing, the one used for the SportZ Magazine 350Z shootout). This dyno does no have inflated numbers like others do, in fact, for all I know, these maybe deflated. But those are the numbers for the 3 cars on this very dyno machine. Mine by the way (before the T/C) made 241 on this dyno (Not bad, huh - doing my new dyno friday, so look out for it). Rwhp is chp (crank hp) - drivetrain loss, which is about 17% in stock form. So how come, as you explained it, the dyno seems to have more hp at the wheels then it should. Well, I think that this drivetrain loss of 17% in stock form is not linearly proportional to the chp made, You must have a rather diminishing drivetrain loss ratio with increasing chp. For a 6mt, the weight of the flywheel, for example, is fixed, so the more chp is applied to it, with a fixed amount of mass, it eats up a relatively fixed amount for it's needed rotational intertia. Thus more hp find their way to the wheels. The same applies to every other rotaional mass, wheels, pulleys, rotors, etc. (all are fixed). On the other hand, frictional energy (loss due to friction) is a function of Normal energy (which is in turn tied to amount of applied power). So these components (lets think downstream of the crank) do increase with force and maintain the same % loss value; the most important ones are, friction within the transmission (<1%) and part of the differential (2.5%-6.5%). the reason that the differential is so great is that a 90degree turn in rotation has to be made, an inherently inefficient proposition

For an AT car, throw in a huge factor (to be determined this friday on the dyno) for a frictional loss in the Torque Converter due to the nature of the liquid coupling linkage. As we know, this liquid coupling efficiency is tied to AT fluid viscosity. Our AT fluid sucks at this. Every notice your car pull really nice the very first time you punch the gas on any given outing, only to not respond this well the second and the third tie. I have confirmed this through dynos (HP falls 3-5 hp on the second, third run), somehting you don't see on MT's. that's why I got my T/C done!

So, at the end of the day, the greater chp of the TT kit ina sense overcomes the drivetrain losses in % numbers. This must be the discrepancy.

I know this is more than you wanted to hear, but I though why not go all out.

Gurgen

 

Hey guys-

first off. to keep things fair. on all dynos pulled on my car, it was with stock track Z wheels and pretty much bone stock everything else with the turbo pulls.. we got around 380rwhp with modest tuning of the ECU... and the car was running rich with the PE injectors, fuel pressure riser, and with a very conservative ECU a/f .... i'm thinking with a lil more boost, and some more fine tuning.. i think 400rwhp is easily attainable.. but for daily driving, i would turn the boost down and keep it safe-..

there is no manifold pressure sensor in the car... so the Z ( or G) will not know if there is positive boost and adjust the A/F accordingly.... but instead for safety measures.. the timing is retarded on the topend as not to cause detonation.. which subsequently killed those ATI procharger Zs..

The TT kit is being developed for the Coupe (i'm looking for SoCal candidates.. see the G35Coupe General Section) and it will pretty much be the same components as the Z tt kit...

as far as warranty is concerned... engine would probably not be covered by nissan after you pull in with this installed.. ;P

 

Does anyone know what type of engine managment ir comes with? Is it tuneable?

'03 G35 Coupe 6spd, brilliant silver, graphite leather, premium, aero and nav packages.