Heres a graph from my latest dyno. The car was on the dyno for some researching, and I was surprised by the numbers the car put down.

Because the dyno was for research and not for numbers we stopped the pulls at 6000rpm. The car should make power to 7000 with the custom ground JWT cams.

Boost comes on gradually due to the lack of a boost controller. With the boost controller the curve is completely different.

The car is also tuned on the rich side. You can't tell from this dyno, as the A/F sensor was in my tailpipe, but my in-car A/F was reading about .5:1 lower then what is on the graph, so about 11.2:1 at the end of the pull.

As soon as I get new spark plugs installed I'm going back for hopefully the last round of research. I'll have the boost controller hooked up and may make a 10psi run. That should put me over the 500whp mark, which is my goal. The car broke up on a few runs and I'm hoping it was blowing the spark out. My a/f and timing looked great, just a slight hesitation.

 

great numbers. what are you researching?

 

The effects of changes in the Variable Valve Timing on a highly modified VQ35.

Basically, trying to see if I can squeeze out a substantial amount of midrange torque by adjusting the VVT.

 

For more info on the car, check out http://kptechnologies.com/images/car/

 

Goodluck.

M

 

You're only making ~400/400 on a built motor TT?

Also a boost controller is not going to help the boost come on any faster, it will just let you have more. The curve will continue upward instead of stopping where your current spring is stopping you.

 

Right now my wastegates are tied directly to my manifold which causes the wastegates to slowly open as I make boost, causing boost to build slower.

With the boost controller I can keep the wastegates completely closed until X amount of boost, then the solenoid will modulelate to control boost pressure. In fact, the boost controller won't actually allow me to make more boost, it will just allow me to control it better. Right now I either have 'manifold' pressure which makes about 7.5 psi or I have no pressure which will make ~18psi. With the boost controller I can pick anything in between.

Boost does build quicker with the boost controller, I've seen it do it.

I actually thought 410whp was pretty good on an 8.6:1 motor. The motor at this boost level is pretty much bulletproof, and I can daily drive the hell out of without worrying about damaging anything. As I slowly increase the boost the HP numbers will get my closer to my target of 500whp.

However, my plan is to drive the car with a custom boost controller that will allow me to run 'manifold' pressure on the street. The reason behind this is to drive the car using the torque curve above, as the engine will last longer. If I need more power I'll flip a switch and go in to high boost mode and have an extra ~100whp availible.

 

Oh I see. I thought you were just using the existing wastegate spring. That makes since. The way mine is set up if I turn the ebc off it builds boost at the exact same rate but stops at 5.5psi instead of 8psi.

 

Gotcha. I was kind of wondering where you were coming from on that one, but that makes sense.

I'm using a UTEC, and up until about 3 weeks ago the onboard boost controller didn't work. It does now, so I've got some tuning to do!