Its pretty simple
1- all F/I will wear out your motor sooner
2- all F/I will blow the motor if not tuned right
3- some F/I kits need more than what comes with the kit to keep it from blowing the motor
4- TT kits have a better chance of blowing the motor ....tuned or not tuned...because of the extra trq. put on the motor lower in the rpm band

 

Everyones giving me complete opposite opinions and stories on F/I mods.......Sounds more like i need to research into depth on all this by myself...Once i actually do my research and i know what i want i'll do my best to post everything i know on a new thread later so anyone curious about TT, single Turbo, or SC's can have some sort of solid foundation on the understandings of all this. Might take a while but i'll definitely keep my word on this. Once again thanks for everyones help but i think it might be better to find things out on my own from actual facts straight out of books, not to say anyone on this forum is wrong but if im going to spend 10-20 G's on a part, i want to know in depth exactly what im getting myself into.

 

By that definition ST kits should be even worse since their torque curve is even more steep.




Now that is dead on.

As I said above my Stillen kit had way more detonation issues than my TT kit. That IS what will blow your motor, not low end torque.

 

Completely agree with you booger.

 

or just get a lambo or ferrari.....

 

I don't think he told you right about the torque, that's funny. No form of FI is safe on the stock motor, but a SC would be "safer" in general terms. It really depends on the tune and how you drive it.

 

yeah sorry about the whole ATI procharger fail...I said I didnt recall, I'll go fix, it much be ati vs vortech...im a loser today my bad.

 

I won't go as far as to say that I've seen as many blown SC engines as I have with TTs and STs. I've been FI for two years and all the data I've seen state otherwise. At any rate, the best tune in the world can't combat fatigue in internal components that were not designed for boost. With that said, these motors is NA form are designed to go well over 100k miles. Don't expect any FI application to match the reliability of a stock engine. Yes, I have 96k on my Vortech, but the engine isn't going to last as long as if I were stock. Lastly, do not FI your car without money for a build. Remmber, your powertrain warranty goes bye-bye with most FI applications.

 

OEM rarely choose superchargers because their life is frequently shorter than the worst power train warranty 3 year/36k period.

The ones that do use Eaton type Axials which might last 60-70k even 100k.

Nissan had lots of experiences with 280-300zxtt and they know how bad most owners are in preventative mainteance limiting life.

A good education is to examine the 300zx/J30 engine vs the changes Nissan made to twin turbo it. But that was only to 300 HP. There are few models of long term supercharger reliability to emulate in oem.

 

your situation with the Stillen SC was probably a rare one . Your tune didnt pull enough timing or didnt supply enough fuel or both . This caused your detonation and in most cases [ like mine ] breaks a piece or pieces of the cylinder off . ATI's SC didnt come with ANY timing control and did the same thing on alot of motors .


With a ST kit , the trq curve comes on later in the rpm range , so it has less of a chance of bending or breaking the rods .

The TT brings on the trq so low in the rpm range the rods bend or break . The safest TT kit on a stock motor would be to run low boost to keep the trq lower .

 

I agree.

The turbo kits got a bad name with the base Greddy and Turbonetics because they came with crappy engine management solutions. Since most people now get a UTEC or better the amount of issues is much lower.

 

only varying degrees of risk.

Do the searches before you spend money [on something you may not be able to afford]. Here's what you will find. (This was true when the G35 first came out and it is true now.)

If you install FI on a stock engine, it is likely that it will fail. Did you get that word - LIKELY?

A few guys get lucky and go a while before the engine blows and some blow right away. But for most, it is just a matter of time.

How many posts about blown OEM engines do we need before we get the message? OEM rods can't handle FI.

And when your engine blows, where will you be? Stop and think about it. You'll be in debt with a car you can't drive and can't afford to fix! I know that because if you can't afford a built engine now, you definitely won't have the money to replace your engine after you get the bill for the FI install.

I want FI on my car as much as anyone, but I'm realistic. A properly done FI project (turbo of course) is AT LEAST a $20,000 proposition and, if it's done right the first time, it will be pushing $30,000. There are realities that won't go away just because you don't want to think about them - engine management, gauges, cooling, exhaust, suspension, wheels, tires, tranny, etc., etc.

Recently, I saw a billboard that struck me as ludicrous. Some casino was boasting about a 97% return. There it is, reality right in your face. And it's presented as something positive! I'm thinkin' what idiot would invest their money in a portfolio that guaranteed a return of 97%???

If you install FI on a stock engine, your percentages will be a lot lower than that!

There's a reason the GTR has a $75,000 window sticker - the factory did it right the first time. And they are not like us who have to throw away a lot of expensive stuff that came with the car when we bought it only to rebuild it the way we need it to be.

Sure, FI is a rush. But before you jump into it, make sure you have the necessary resources in hand, not just in that imagination that fools us all.

 

wow with so much info now I don't even need to chim in......O.P are you still confused?

 

I'd say I need to save up some more money!!very helpful thanks for the info bro.

 

Your main limiting factor is going to be your 5AT, which doesn't handle extra heat and power very well without some upgrades.