Forced Induction Discussion of turbos , superchargers , and nitrous upgrades on the G35

Is this a good deal? FI Quote NEED YOUR HELP!

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Old Jan 30, 2009 | 12:15 PM
  #16  
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I don't get all the UTEC hate around here.

I have one on my car and it runs like a champ! Start up is perfect, idle is nice (with 750's and cams) Yes a full stand alone is better but at 2.5-3x the cost many can't afford it. It is not a need...

The 18G kit will get you into the mid to high 500whp on pump gas and can hit 700whp on race gas with the right supporting mods. IMO you are better off with the 18G kit and save a couple grand.

Your list is missing things like BOV, EBC, Fuel return, larger injectors (440's will max out a bit above 400whp).

Yes, for 400-450 whp you can go with a less expensive single plate clutch and be ok. But, a twin will last a lot longer at those power levels.

Also, if you are going with a built short block you should consider at least a valve job on your existing heads. That will add another ~$800-1k.

As for the prices... shop around first. I paid a lot less than that for my parts.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2009 | 12:17 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Mr_pharmD
I cant believe how cheap your labor is.
Im sure its because they are making money of some of the parts.. ex. Utec is cheaper than $900.. etc..
 
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Old Jan 30, 2009 | 12:22 PM
  #18  
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That's true, that is cheap labor.

I got a partial sponsorship for my build and still paid close to that for the motor/head build +RR.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2009 | 12:28 PM
  #19  
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Dang, keep us updated Fergie. Can't wait to see your ride when you go through with it.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2009 | 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by ttrank
I don't get all the UTEC hate around here.

I have one on my car and it runs like a champ! Start up is perfect, idle is nice (with 750's and cams) Yes a full stand alone is better but at 2.5-3x the cost many can't afford it. It is not a need....
My UTEC is working nicely too. I don't even know its there...it's all about the tune.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2009 | 12:46 PM
  #21  
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You can shop around for parts but I don't like taking parts to a shop for install. Usually thats where shops make their cash. Also when the parts you bring to them don't work, you are obligated to rectify the situation. The shop might help you, but since you didnt buy it from them, they might not be motivated to do the legwork. My two cents is to check around for prices, and then take those to the shop doing the build. You should be able to haggle a little on final prices if they are doing the total build.

About the utec, i've had mine since my ast st days, and it has worked great with my setups( aps st then greddy tt). at 15psi(which is a sweet spot, imo) i make 550whp, which is more than you wanted to make. i would do the 20g's unless you were going for massive top end power later on. also, i dont think you need an ebc. I spent 500 bucks on the blitz unit. it's rock solid, but i've upped the boost once or twice. in my area, there's no need for anymore power on the street. if you got any questions about my setup, shoot me a pm or click on my sig.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2009 | 07:19 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by bullitproof
You can shop around for parts but I don't like taking parts to a shop for install. Usually thats where shops make their cash. Also when the parts you bring to them don't work, you are obligated to rectify the situation. The shop might help you, but since you didnt buy it from them, they might not be motivated to do the legwork. My two cents is to check around for prices, and then take those to the shop doing the build. You should be able to haggle a little on final prices if they are doing the total build.

About the utec, i've had mine since my ast st days, and it has worked great with my setups( aps st then greddy tt). at 15psi(which is a sweet spot, imo) i make 550whp, which is more than you wanted to make. i would do the 20g's unless you were going for massive top end power later on. also, i dont think you need an ebc. I spent 500 bucks on the blitz unit. it's rock solid, but i've upped the boost once or twice. in my area, there's no need for anymore power on the street. if you got any questions about my setup, shoot me a pm or click on my sig.
Thanks for the info, Im going to go get some other quotes this weekend and i'll let yall kno how it goes...

Do yall think I can hit 500WHP with 13k?
 
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Old Jan 31, 2009 | 08:35 AM
  #23  
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In short no. That is a very tight budget. You want turbo kit, built motor,ems,fuel system,tune, and labor for 13k plus incidentals you always have them. Like a few others have said here get the parts from the shop you are having the work done at. Don't be penny wise and dollar foolish. You may save a few hundred dollars, but if there is a problem with something during or after the install it will all be on you.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2009 | 10:32 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by FI'ed G
If you just want 400-500whp then Utec should be enough. The problem with Utec is the resolution in high boost application, at 10-12psi you can get to you goals and Utec should have enough resolution for that. If you want close to 600whp then Utec isnt going to cut it (Not that you cant make it work) because you'll be around 18-20psi to get there. Having said that, your build should be able to handle 500+whp so you might as well get a better EMS, just my .02
well said.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2009 | 10:35 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by ttrank
I don't get all the UTEC hate around here.

I have one on my car and it runs like a champ! Start up is perfect, idle is nice (with 750's and cams) Yes a full stand alone is better but at 2.5-3x the cost many can't afford it. It is not a need...
I love my utec as well, but spending ton of money on build motor/big turbos, i would spend more money on better ems for future.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2009 | 10:43 AM
  #26  
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From: Mi/Tx/Ny/s.korea
Originally Posted by eckoultd87

Do yall think I can hit 500WHP with 13k?
hummm i don't know about that.

When i was shopping for greddy, price i found was 18g/ turn key 10K~12k on stock motor.

Edit:
Originally Posted by ttrank
The 18G kit will get you into the mid to high 500whp on pump gas and can hit 700whp on race gas with the right supporting mods. IMO you are better off with the 18G kit and save a couple grand.
+1 I do agree with TTrank. Shoot PM to george@GTM, he is selling used greddy tt kit for cheap, also they can install everything for good price.
 

Last edited by Chef-j; Jan 31, 2009 at 10:49 AM.
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Old Jan 31, 2009 | 10:46 AM
  #27  
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What hate Be honest...who in their right mind would buy big turbo's like the 20G and use a Utec A Utec will not be able to handle the full potential of the 20G

Originally Posted by ttrank
I don't get all the UTEC hate around here.

I have one on my car and it runs like a champ! Start up is perfect, idle is nice (with 750's and cams) Yes a full stand alone is better but at 2.5-3x the cost many can't afford it. It is not a need...

The 18G kit will get you into the mid to high 500whp on pump gas and can hit 700whp on race gas with the right supporting mods. IMO you are better off with the 18G kit and save a couple grand.

Your list is missing things like BOV, EBC, Fuel return, larger injectors (440's will max out a bit above 400whp).

Yes, for 400-450 whp you can go with a less expensive single plate clutch and be ok. But, a twin will last a lot longer at those power levels.

Also, if you are going with a built short block you should consider at least a valve job on your existing heads. That will add another ~$800-1k.

As for the prices... shop around first. I paid a lot less than that for my parts.

Originally Posted by djamps
Parts seem a bit pricey but the labor seems like a really good deal..
And thats my point....The prices on the parts is a little off...but the labor is cheap. Thats why I asked what shop....they might not be able to get the good prices as some of the big shops do.

If 2 people are doing the same exact build...both cost 20K....but one person paid $100 for the Utec and the other paid $900...what difference does it make??? The bottom line is still the same.

Unless this guys changes his mind...going with the 20G turbos and anything short of a Standalone is nuts. If he cant afford a good EMS ..he cant affort to go with the 20G turbo's.

Thats my 10cents
 

Last edited by XKR; Jan 31, 2009 at 11:04 AM.
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Old Jan 31, 2009 | 12:00 PM
  #28  
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I told the guy that 19K was out of my budget and he gave me another quote... let me know what yall think about this one....

the greddy tt kit with the 440's and emanage blue installed and retuned with the wastegate relocation kit and 2.5 inch dp's. 7800 for the turbo kit. 1100 for the wastegate relocation and dp's. spec has a good clutch for about 1400 dollars. 1750 for the install 22 hours for labor @ 80 an hour. this setup should be good for about 380-400whp.
all of that for around 13k...

I believe this is still using the 20g turbos
 
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Old Jan 31, 2009 | 12:15 PM
  #29  
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One of the biggest mistakes I see people make as a client, is upsetting the people who are going to be working on things you own.

The same rules that apply with waiters at a restaurant apply at an auto shop. Don't F*** with people who mess with your car. You want quality work done so you need that mechanic to feel bad if something goes wrong. If you are questioning his prices on parts (which he did mark up) then it is going to insult them whether you are trying to or not.

Like every small business he is trying to make money, specially in this economy. Anyways, my point is...just because the client is always right, doesn't mean it is in the clients best interest to **** off the workers.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2009 | 01:45 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by eckoultd87
I told the guy that 19K was out of my budget and he gave me another quote... let me know what yall think about this one....



all of that for around 13k...

I believe this is still using the 20g turbos
What kind of a shop will recommend using an E-Blue and yet will recommend a $1400 clutch? Please slap him upside the head for me The rest is good but get a utec at least for the EMS.
 
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