I took off the SCer and Im runnig the Haltech . I was wondering [ besides plugging back in the MAF sensor ] can I just unplug the EMS and plug back in the stock ECU ? And it will run correctly ?

Also...I have 850 injectors with a return fuel system .

Can the stock ECU be FLASHED and TUNED with 850's and a return fuel system ?

I had heard they were able to do 750's ,but not sure on 850's and a return fuel system .

Thanks in advance !!!!!

 

Booger, with an Osiris reflash, I believe you will have no problem. Osiris has been used for everything from stock up to 500+ whp cars.

 

I would think that they would have not trouble doing that.

 

I was think of sending my ECU to Technosquare . I have had flashes from them before and I think they charge less for additional flashes .

Can I JUST unplug the Haltech .......leave it in place....and plug back in the stock ECU with out doing anything else ?

 

I don't think it will start or idle, unless you have the flash. If you get the TS reflash for the injector scaling, you should be fine. The nice thing about Osiris is that you don't have to mail your ECU back and forth for fine adjustments. Can be done via e-mail. If you have a problem, you transmit logs back, they fix tune, send e-mail back with new tune.

 

I was going to send the ECU out to get flashed [ if possible ] then unplug the Haltech . I'll give Technosquare a call . Orisis sounds good but my tuner cant get the tune right with Haltech [ or doesnt want to ] so having him tune the Orisis wouldnt work either

Thanks !

 

I would pull the haltech out, then have uprev scale the injectors with a reflash then you should be good to go

 

You have to get it tuned too . I had my ECU flashed to scale for the 550's but not tuned . It ran way to rich with out the SS box [ I had it at the time ]

I dont want to take the Haltech out completely , because I hope to turbo the car sooner or later

 

Oh ok, I see you hidden plan.

 

I have worked with the tuning software for the Haltech and Osiris. The Haltech GUI is MUCH EASIER to work with so DEFINITELY DO NOT have your tuner try Osiris if he's having trouble with the Haltech. The Haltech software is considered one of the nicest, tuner friendly pieces on the market. If you're tuner can't understand it, I'd be worried! You know Hal at Injected is VERY NICE and will answer questions and help your tuner out on the Haltech if he needs it. Heck, he helps end users too. I've played quite a bit with the Haltech. What kind of problem is your tuner having? Hal can probably send you a map that is near spot on for a NA car.

 

Im not sure if he is trying to milk cash from me or doesnt know how . Last time I asked him to tune it N/A and get the idle right . He got it to idle OK , but the A/F is all over the place while Im driving . Between 11 to 1 and 14 to 1 . Idles between 11 to 1 and 13 to 1 .

 

That's nuts. You can fix the AFR by yourself. Just have a buddy (or wife) drive around while you make small percentage changes in the relevant cells. Save a copy of your current map, go to the base fuel map, press the spacebar when the AFR is off (which will select the relevant cell - try to have your partner hold the throttle steady for a few seconds while you tap the spacebar so you get exactly the correct cell where the AFR is out of whack), press "P" and enter percentage changes, like 5 or -5 until your AFRs are rock solid. 30 minutes of driving around town and you should be set.

What kind of wideband input do you have going into the Haltech? (Default is stock widebands, which work fine if you get the calibration curve correct, but getting that calibration curve correct can be tricky unless you have some other reference point, like an aftermarket wideband)

My car idles between 14.6 - 14.8 to 1. Driving around town with no load is about the same. Rock solid.

Or if you don't feel comfortable with that, take it to another tuner. At least call Injected and relay your story to Hal and get a 2nd opinion.

 

I have 2 innovates with one gauge that I can switch from side to side .

I played with my old SS box and was able to tune and felt comfortable doing it . But there is alot more to the Haltech and I get scared of fcking something up .

What size injectors do you have ?

 

I have 1000cc HKS injectors. If you make percentage changes, you should see the immediate result in small increments. You shouldn't screw it up. And you can always go back to your old map. Plus, it's not like you have to worry about boost. Don't mess around with timing and I think you'll be fine. You should be comfortable though. I don't want to be the cause of you doing something bad! Playing with just the base fuel table, under vacuum, I don't see how you could hurt your car... I guess you could put in a value that locks the injectors wide open and flood it, hydrolock it, etc. But if you turn the color shading on, you would notice a very discrepant cell value right away (versus it's neighbors). The other useful shortcut key is "L" to linearize across the selected range. So if one cell is screwy just highlight from the cell before, the cell itself, and the cell after, and press "L". That will average it out.

Can you clarify what O2 sensor the Haltech is reading? You might be able to see the innovate but what does the Haltech see? By default the cable is wired in to read the stock widebands. Perhaps that's why your tuner is having a hard time. What year is your car again? Stock widebands or narrow bands - do you know?

 

Its an 03 G35

I think I will get out there and play around with it . See if I can get used to it .
See if I can smooth out the idle A/F first .

Thanks for the tips !