Well, going to start a thread documenting my Vortech install on my 2004 G35 Sedan.

All parts are in except the Vortech kit, so i'll be planning on my build next weekend. JTune Performance in Wilmington, DE will be doing the tune the following Monday.

Right now, here is what is going in:

Vortech V-3 SCi-Trim Supercharger (Tuner Kit)
Vortech 3.12" Pulley (mod to SC kit)
Dayco Poly Cog 93" Belt (mod to SC kit)
DW 600 Injectors
Walbro lph255 Fuel Pump
Spark Plugs (2-steps)
Osiris Pro-Tune by JTune Performance in Wilmington, DE

Already have:
Stillen Catback Exhaust
5/16" Plenum Spacer

Been going crazy as far as gauges go at the moment. No easy solution for mounting new gauges on a Sedan, but decided to try the Greddy Infometer since it looks pretty cool, although i think it does have a bit of lag. So i bought the Infometer as well as the additional boost sensor package.

I've also been thinking about the Samco Red hose kit for the car. The guy selling them said a guaranteed increased of 10hp at the wheels with these things, just because of the red color . . . hmmmm.

Anyways, my goal with this is to hit at least 325 rwhp with this set-up. Keeping my fingers crossed. Eventual goal will be to get in the 400 rwhp club, but thats farther down the line and will involve more add-ons.

Well, i'll be posting more pics as i go along.

 

2 step colder will foul out. get 1 step colder

 

I already have 1 step colder plugs in the my car. The technician at vortech, as well as my tuner (JTune Technologies) all said 2-step colder is the recommended spark plug configuration for this set-up.

 

Just some install photos. One pre-install with my son Michael, and one almost completed. Poured most of the weekend. Had to set up a tent over the car!

Overall, the install was fairly easy although the Vortech instructions were probably some of the worst i've seen - and probably more time was spent trying to interpret them than anything else.

Also, called Vortech support and asked about how much torque needed to be applied for various fasteners, and he just replied, make them as tight as you can with a socket wrench. Good knowledgeable support.

Anyways, so i just used torque ratings from the factory manual and for other bolts just used the appropriate SAE handbook ratings and also used loctite as appropriate.

 

Sounds like a nice set up once you get it all done. I wonder how much it would cost to have someone do this kind of install for me since I only like to do minor work. Anyway I bet you'll hit 325 rwhp, good luck.

 

Just got the car back from the tuner and the ride is SWEET! First, kudos to the guys, especially Hok Cheng, down at JTune Performance in Wilmington, DE for the final install and tune. These guys were very friendly and knowledgeable. Highly recommended!

My goal was to hit about 325 rwhp and the dyna indicated a peak of about 340rwhp, so i'm pretty happy. Hok also said when he ran the dyno when the SC was relatively cold, the pulls were over 400 rwhp but settled down once the SC heated up.

Also, it is important to note that the car was tuned very conservatively for reliability vs. maxing out performance.

See attached.

Peak boost captured during the dyna pulls was 8psi, but on my ride home i was easily hitting 10-11psi at full rpms.

All in all, what a lot of fun to drive. Even raced a grandmom driving an '84 white Buick Century at a traffic light and beat her! Try that with a stock G35!

 

If this car is a daily driver or sees a lot of street use you should go with 1 setp colder plugs. That's what I have always run on my car, even at 650whp.

 

Wait... they made a full throttle dyno run on a cold motor that had not been properly warmed up! I would never, never, never take my car anywhere near that place!

That's a recipe for problems. Until your oil has properly warmed up the oil pressure is sky high. My car idles at almost 90psi when I first start it up and comes down to 40psi once warm.

 

hey do you have any pics of how the stuff mounted in the car? and also, are you auto or manual?

 

Actually, what i meant was when the SC itself was relatively cold. The engine and SC were of course run until they both reached they're steady state operating condition. I was meaning after the SC really heated up after several pulls, thats when powered started leveling off. I guess initially, the air exiting the SC was relatively cold until it heated up.

Yeah, i'll post some soon. I have a 6MT.

 

Why is that?
Thanks

 

They can have fouling issues. And you are not making anywhere near enough power to make the kind of heat that needs two step colder plugs.


Gotcha. That had me scared.

 

Your dyno chart is showing flywheel horsepower, not wheel horsepower... Dynapack numbers I assume?

The curve is also pretty jumpy... does the power delivery seem smooth at WOT? I guess the butt dyno is what matters...

Enjoy your boost!

 

No, those are wheel HP numbers. I've yet to see a shop put in the conversion they have for flywheel but the printout always says that. For some reason Dynapack has always said that and a number of shops I talk to have all asked them to update their software to change that but they say no.

 

did they give you the reading for the a/f ratio? are you running a reflash or piggy back?