Hello, longtime G owner here (but,regrettably, sold mine last year). Here is my situation...my buddy has a supercharged G35 coupe that is supercharged on the factory motor(with 100k miles) and he is thinking of rebuilding the motor. He is very price conscious, but wants it done right still. I will likely end up buying it from him in another year or so and wanted to help make recommendations on what setup to go. What are the weak points in the bottom end? There are no plans to push the car past 450rwhp....what route should he go? Thanks in advance, any help is greatly appreciated

 

Piston
Connecting Rods
ARP Main studs
ARP L19 Bolts (You can possibly get away with HR head bolts since it is a SC)
ACL Bearings

that is all there is to the Shortblock

 

Huge thanks! any idea what the stock pistons/rods are good up to?

 

No one has ever tested the limit of the pistons

The limitation is the connecting rods

 

If your taking the time to build the engine you should put Forged pistons and rods it is over kill for your goals but other wise just buy a used stock engine. At the power you are looking for ARP studs are over kill as well .

Some Wisco pistons are about $700

Eagle rods are about $500

ARP L 19 main and head studs are about $550 for the kit.

About $200 for head gaskets

bearing sets are about $300

Dont forget a new rev up oil pump and all the misc gaskets and o-rings machine work ect ect.

Or buy a built short block for about $3500

Or a long block for in the $6000 range if I were in your shoes I think I would buy a GTM basic long block it seem like alot of $$$ at once but I think it would cheaper in the long run,

 

how much whp can the eagle rods hold?

 

I think the said 600.

 

Where you get those numbers from?

I have seen quite a few builds pushing 800whp+ with these rods

According to Eagle's site they rate them for 1500 HP

http://www.eaglerod.com/index.php?op...d=33&Itemid=40

 

ya ppl are pushing them in the 650 range from what i see on my350z.com.

 

The Eagle rods are pretty stout. I think XKR was north of 700 hp on his eagle rods.

I have heard of at least one instance in which an Eagle rod supposidly failed (the person wanted to buy one or two of mine), but he did not give the specifics as to what really happened. Likely he had detonation or pre-ignition, but I don't really know.

I had over 600 whp. I over-reved my motor, burying the tachometer. Although I lost two rod bearings, the Eagle rods came out unscathed - they are in perfect condition.

 

Hey folks, I'm getting in a G35 soon and I'll be looking for about 6-700 rw on a pump/meth mix. I'm new to the VQ but not to boost. I currentlt have a TT Z28 in the work but its only for going straight. I've got connects with Wiseco and Eagle components so I'm covered there. So my questions are related to;

Heads
Cams
Crank

Yes I read the newbie thread, It looks like the mentioned componets can do such, but I was wondering if anyone else what ran forgerd rods/piston with mostly stock componets

 

sorry for the thread jack btw

 

No one has posted in the thread for over a year and half at that point it is not a jack it is necromancing....

What is your question?

What other guys run?

I run Pauter rods Aries XD pistons Jim Wolf C2 cams, stock crank, my heads are worked over pretty good but it is not required as they do flow good. One guy it might have been TTG35forT (from above^^) if I recall right was well over 600whp with stock heads and stock cams. So the heads cams do flow well but for your goals cams and springs would be recommend. I like Jim Wolf stuff others like Brian Crower and a few guys are starting to run Kelfords.

 

Engine packages are customizable to match your goals. Here are two samples of common configurations:

Stage 1 Short Block packages start at $2765 and include CP Pistons, Eagle Rods, ACL Bearings, machining, align hone, balance, blueprint and pro assembly!

Stage 1 Long Block packages start at $3690 and include the Stage1 Short Block, ARP L19 Head Studs, ARP Main Studs, Cometic Head Gaskets, Mill & Clean Heads and assembly.

http://www.importpartspro.com/niin1.html



http://my350z.com/forum/engine/51070...ur-engine.html

http://www.importpartspro.com/shblpa.html


http://my350z.com/forum/engine/47208...eeds-here.html

 

Keep in mind once you decide to go build, that the block itself will need to be worked. You just dont slap new parts onto it and call it a day.

Also you're going to spend money replacing gaskets, seals, timing parts and most of all bearings.. defiantly do your research before taking on a huge project like this.