IT DOESN'T MATTER! Tune is the KEY.

It could have 200K miles and still pull great to 300K miles. You could say 80% is in the tune and 20% is in the mileage as 100K miles is really not a lot of miles.

Can my car detonate and explode into pieces....SURE! Will it be the mileage or the tune that's at fault? TUNE!.

 

Tune has a great role in how long ur car will last but if its on a stock block there's luck also... Also depends on how u drive ur car. If u beat it everyday to redline all the time, doesnt matter what tune u have it'll blow... Also just cause u have a good tune doesnt mean ur stockblock is bullet proof. It can still blow.... tune is important but by no means mean ur motor is safe.

 

Thus why I said 80% is the tune.

 

Damn Homie as i thought mine was bigger.........dammit.

 

thats true,ive had alot of trouble with the shop that did my install and tune.. but nothing actually wrong with the kit itself..a proper installation and tune is a MUST..im very confident with my new build tune and im still running my same sc kit(2 yrs now)

 

like i said b4 i recommed internals..or really low psi..if u want reliability just stay NA lol

 

just put a jet engine in it, then you can go to the "jet engines" forums and ask them questions.

 

If you really want boost...sell your G35 and go buy an EVO. All the bolt ons and a tune on an EVO will be easily faster and more reliable than a supercharged G35 on a stock block with 100,000 miles. It will prob cost you a lot less in the long run too. My .02.

 

DO NOT FI if it is your ONLY car. I wanted to and after reading all the posts for the last five years, I have given up on that. There are very few FI cars that make big numbers AND are reliable enough to be a DD (daily driver). I can think of about three or four here. FI is a "Fun Toy" not something that you want to rely on unless you are willing to spend upwards of twenty large.

 

+1^^

 

Well, you have had a lot of responses, some good, some not so good. I think Heist hit the nail on the head in post #2...

At 110k mi., your engine internals are wearing. Going forced induction (FI) will only exacerbate the wear. If this is your only car, I would NOT recommend going FI.

If you have the funds to replace the motor when it goes, then fine. But if this is the case, I would recommend at least getting a built short block now that is designed for FI. In the overall scheme of things, getting a built short block now will save you headache in the long run. You can get a built short block from Import Parts Pro for around $2,600 or so. You need to send your original short block back to them to avoid the additional $750 core charge.

I orignially looked at going with a supercharger, but opted to go with a twin turbo (TT) system. It costs more, but also offers more bang for the buck if you have a built short block. There is one huge caveat to this statement, however. For many of us, once we have a TT system, we get greedy and push our motors to the extreme. This brings on more problems. Also, as you increase your hp goal, now you get into a new fuel delivery system, aftermarket EMS, etc., and the costs add up very quickly. Even with all of the right components, things can, and do, go wrong.

 

Don't forget, new clutch, pressure plate and flywheel, Limited Slip Differential, new exhaust, Bigger brakes, bigger tires to handle the grip, new suspension to keep it planted. Gauges, engine management, turbo timer, etc, etc, etc. It's a sickness.

 

That is why I said "etc." FYI, my build is listed in post 18 of the following thread: http://my350z.com/forum/forced-induc...rev-2-0-a.html

There are alot of modifications you can do, depending on how far down the rabbit hole you want to go. Obviously, each person needs to decide how far they want to proceed and consult a knowledgable builder/tuner about their build plans to ensure the rest of the components are up to snuff...

EDIT: To make things more simple, here is my current buld list:

GTM VQ35DE Short Block Stroked to 4.0 L
-ARP Main Studs and Rod Bolts
-Ceramic Coated Piston Tops with Graphite Coated Side Skirts (Wiseco pistons)
-GTM Coating on all bearings
-GTM Billet 4140 Girdle and Main Caps
GTM Stage 3 Twin Turbo System (0.64 A/R)
-Ceramic Coating to be applied by Fuzion to Exhaust Manifolds, Downpipes, Turbo Housings, and Intake Tubes between Intercooler and Plenum
Heads Match Ported/Polished, Ceramic Coating on Combustion Chambers and Intake and Exhaust ports
Ferrea Valves, Stock Diameter, Ceramic Coated
JWT C8 Cams
JWT Springs
HR Headgaskets with JWT Cooling Mod
ARP L19 head studs
HKS 1000 cc Low Impedance Fuel Injectors (Custom machined by Forged Performance)
HKS Twin Power DLI II Ignition System
Cosworth Intake Plenum (Internally Ceramic Coated)
Injected Performance Spacer for Cosworth Plenum
Custom Fuel Return System
Custom Surge/Swirl Tank
Walbro In-Tank Fuel Pump
Essex In-Line Fuel Pump (after surge tank)
54mm Koyo Radiator
Nismo Low Temp Thermostat
Pathfinder Rear Cooling Mod
2 x 12,000 BTU Oil Coolers
Rev-Up Oil Pump
JWT Oil Pan Spacer
Nismo Rear Diff Cover/Cooler
HKS F-Con V Pro
HKS Navigator
HKS A/F Knock Amplifier - Two O2 sensors
HKS EVC Boost Controller
HKS Turbo Timer Type-1
Coolingmist Meth/Water Injection System
-Meth/Water Pump
-1.5 Gal. Trunk Mount Tank
-Smart Injection Controller
-Vari Cool Controller
-2 x Coolingmist Super High Speed Valves (S-HSVs)
-1 On/Off Solenoid
-6 port Meth/Water Manifold
-6 x 250 cc/min. Injectors
-40 micron meth/water filter
PVC Catch Can TBD
Greddy Evo TT Exaust, Ceramic Coated
Driveshaft Shop Level 2 Axles
Carbonetics Carbon Tripple Disk Clutch
Techna SS Clutch Line
Wilwood Brakes
Tein Flex Coilovers
Tein EFDC System
Stillen Sway Bars
SPC Rear Camber Arms
SPC Front Control Arms
GT Spec Braces
-Front Strut Tower Brace
-Rear Tie Brace
-Front Lower Tie Brace
-4 Point Mid Chassis Reinforcement Brace
-Rear Lateral Arm Brace
Stillen Rear Strut Tower Brace
Seibon Carbon Fiber Hood
Kuruma Z Front Bumper
SurfaceModZ CS-Style Rear Bumper
Custom underbody design in process
Greddy Side Skirts
APR GTC-300 Carbon Fiber Wing
Mercury Silver Volk GT-S Wheels 19x9.5F, 19x10.5R (30 offset front and rear)
Toyo R888 Tires 305/30/19 - Rear
Michelin Pilot Sport Cup Tires 265/30/19 - Front
Arizing Racing Sport ST Racing Seats with Factory Willow matched leather
5-Point Racing Harnesses