OK, I've searched all over the F/I forum & can't find a clear answer so I'll come to the "Masters"! I'm about to add a nitrous setup ( either NX or ZEX ) to my G & the easiest thing to do would be to send my ECU back to T/S for them to take out that aggressive timing map & flash in a more nitrous-friendly one. However, I don't plan on squeezing at every opportunity & would prefer to keep that more powerful N/A feeling that the current reflash gives me ( kinda looking for a "have my cake & eat it too" scenario ). I've spoken to Gurgen & he suggests the Safeguard but I can't get J&S to return my E-mails or answer their phone. Are there any other electronics out there to give me the ability to either manually or automatically retard the timing while I squeeze? Not that familiar with the e-Manage or some of the HKS stuff so any input will be GREATLY appreciated!! TIA!

Gene

 

JandS is the way to go, there is a switched retard input for either and extra 2 or 4 degrees which works nicely when spraying.

 

Gene...

How are you my friend?

I am not aware of any device out there that would do for you what ideally needs to be done. J&S has a switch that will take out 2 or 4 degrees (selectable) upon activation. The switch was designed with Nitrous users in mind. It is activated by a ~12 v source, so you can connect it to your nitrous solenoid, so when you are spraying, some timing is taken out automatically. In addition to this, it still does have the knock-based retard, that will secure your engine like no other. The package is not that expensive considering what you get. You can go with the HKS Knock Amp (or an Apexi unit that might be out on the market - I just heard this and have not in fact seen it) and for ~$500-600 and you only get an indication that you get knock, that's all.... No adjustment of timing at all, certainly nothing as elaborate as J&S's retard schemes. BTW, you will be all set as far as timing is concerned if you ever decide to go FI.

Gurgen

 

how much will you be spraying? because i don't think your car can handle such a big shot that you have to retard the timing on it, if you are not spraying more than 100hp then you need not to touch your timing at all, the only thing you need is one step colder spark plugs, however if i were you i would not go more than a 75hp shot to keep it on the safe side. on the other hand if you will be shooting more that 100 hp then you need to retard the timing by 2 degrees for every 25hp that you go over 100hp shot ex. 125hp you need to retard 2 degrees 150hp you need to retard 4 degrees and so forth and so on. hope this helps.

let me know if you have any other questions

 

John - Thanks for the input! No, I don't plan on spraying more than 100 hp ( most likely just 75 to stay safe ). It's just that I've spoken with T/S & while they won't divulge exactly how much timing their N/A reflash has ( it's proprietary so I totally understand ), they insist that it's too aggressive for ANY nitrous. Your information reflects that of an engineer at Texas Nitrous Motorsports I spoke with recently. He feels that changing to colder plugs & staying conservative with the spray will be enough. Perhaps trial & error will shed some light on things. Unfortunately, error tends to be expensive, right, Gurgen??!!
G-man - I'm doing just fine. How goes the rebuild? If I was smart ( haven't been accused of THAT too much!! ), I'd just start building up a solid VQ short block right now. Cash flow doesn't allow it right now so perhaps the Safeguard coupled with the plugs & conservative tuning will be my best bet until the stock market picks up steam. Thanks to everyone for the input!!

Gene

 

listen when you are talking about nitrous there is no chance for trial and error so dont even consider trying [censored] out that you dont know or trusting some schmuck with your car. if you really are going with nitrous do your homework as much as you can. things that are A must have when dealing with nitrous are 2 essential things 1. fuel pressure regulator and window switch. these are the only two things that will save you from having to buy a new engine. the fuel pressure regulator will come with the kit if you go with the nitrous express kit (20923) that's what i would recommend. also you need a purge valve and bottle heater these two come separate. i've seen other posts here that people say is not nessesary but it is. purge valve for when you spray you want to purge out that old nitrous that stayed on the line or justa the air, you really do not want fuel + air being injected directly into your intake and the bottle heater because you do not want to be spraying when the bottle pressure is low. you will also need a bottle pressure gauge.

let me know if you need any more help

 

John - Thanks for the offers! What brand of window switch do U recommend ( MSD? ). I've used lots of nitrous on my Corvette so I'm not a newbie to spraying but this is my first import application w/o a fuel return line. Yes, I already have the purge kit & also an electronic nitrous pressure gauge so that I can monitor it from the A-pillar pod ( whenever it's finally available ). I'll also have the AEM wideband O2 sensor in that pod so i can keep an eye on my A/F mixture. Any other thoughts?

 

A bottle warmer is an important feature. It will help maintain consistent pressure in the bottle. A bottle warmer with a pressure-activated switch would be sweet.

You also need to install a blow-off valve on the bottle, and plumb it with a relief tube to vent gas outside the car if too much bottle pressure results. This is a safety system to guard against a faulty warmer switch, or a super-heated trunk.

A remote control bottle opener is convenient. You can open/close the valve on the bottle from the drivers' seat.

Good luck.

'03 G35s 5AT, Garnet Fire/Willow
Staggered 18" SSR GT1/Bridgestone PP S03
Eibach Springs/Sways, Stillen 2-pc BBK
Stillen Intake & SS Cat-Back Dual Exhaust

 

MeanGene- i would recommend getting everything from the same brand ie: nos, nx, venom, ect. my preference is nx because i've always worked with them eventhough they are all the same. also it was mentioned here that you need a blowdown tube and valve for the bottle, u don't need that unless you are putting the bottle inside the car; meaning, that you are not gonna put it in the trunk. putting the bottle inside the car would not be recommende due to drilling holes in the floor and [censored] like that, with the bottle warmer and pressure gauge i told you to get the bottle pressure will never go over 1200psi and will never go under 900-950 psi as long as the heater is on. is all automated just turn it on and that's it, when u are not gonna use it turn it off.

let me know if you got more questions