Basic info: 05 aps twin turbo g35 on a safe tune roughly 370 whp

Last night i was getting on it pretty hard and when i rolled into my driveway, the car just died. The a/f guage i have says its running way into the rich zone. The weird thing is that at idle its solid 14.7 but if i tap the gas it goes up and then right down and stalls. While driving it bogs between each shift. The only thing i have done recently was add 1/3 can of seafoam into gas tank and then filled it up completely. What could be wrong?

p.s. driver side exhaust is smoking way more than passenger side and its more white but I'm not sure if that's because it's cold out or something is wrong with the turbo

 

How is your coolant level? If it is low or the over flow tank is full you could have head gasket issues. I am asking because white exhaust could be an indication of coolant getting into the combustion chamber, the exhaust would also smell sweet.

If it is a turbo issue the smoke is usually blue/black because oil is getting by the seals.

 

It's hard to tell with the aps over flow tank but it doesn't look low to me, I tried smelling the exhaust earlier but I'm sick so I cant smell anything =/. I'll have a friend smell it tomorrow. Head gasket was on the list of my possible problems, because I had a chance to look under the car while it was running and the turbos didn't sound any different than usual. Also I'm starting to think it isn't the head gasket because I'm running rich and that would cause me to run lean, correct?

 

^ any updates on what happened?

 

I never noticed any difference in rich/lean and you likely wont because the cylinder pressure will push the coolant out of the block but then when it cools down (after the car it off) the coolant will be drawn back into the block and possibly into the cyclinders. When i popped my 1st HG on the dyno it pushed the coolant out of the engine block and into the over flow container so it was full right to the top. When the engine cooled it sucked the coolant back in to the block and the only time this happened was when I was driving the car hard after I let it cool and took it off the dyno I did a compression test and pressure tested the cooling system everything seemed fine until I took it out for a hard run then the overflow tank filled again . The second time it happened was an encounter with a couple street bikes, after words I shut the car off and then when I went to start it again the car was hard to start due to coolant in the cylinders and when it did start it smoked white like crazy.

 

No update yet, I forgot to mention I have had an ssqv (not recirculating like the aps bov does)bov on it for about a week but it never changed the a/f ratio but if the shop can't figure it out I'm going to put the aps back on and hope I get lucky =P kinda hoping there a blown headgasket so I have an excuse to build the crap out of it while the engine is apart anyway lol

 

ok let me get this straight. at idle its fine/ a/f stay in the 14.7 range. when you give it gas it pegs rich. i would do a boost leak test. i would check all your hoses and clamps and see if they are still on right and tight. when you give it gas it looses all the air and the computer just dumps fuel into the system making ti drown itself. i have had this happen to me a few times on all my boosted cars (str/evo/sr20/dsm). check that and see if it fixes your issue

 

That sounds like what's happening, hopefully thats what it is because thats a muchhh cheaper fix than shellin out for a new bb turbo

shop didn't get back to me yet so i'm gunna stop by and check for that myself tonight

 

hopefully this is the fix you need

 

sounds like boost leak

 

Went to go check the car out myself because I'm quite impatient and they finally got it into the shop...just in time to close for the weekend so I can't get to it. Heres to hoping its a boost leak

 

The shops says they THINK its a blown turbo seal, I'm going to check for oil in the intercooler piping later today...chime in if you have any other suggestions

 

Ok I saw oil leaking from the exhaust housing side of the turbo...clearly thats bad =/. Replace whole turbo or have it rebuilt?

 

look into the price of a new turbo and getting it rebuilt. if theres not much of a difference then i would just replace it. check your other turbo for shaft play to make sure that one isnt going bad as well

 

I talked to some turbo specialists and they said ball bearing turbos can't be rebuilt, but I've read that I could replace the whole CHRA which I think would be easier than buying a new turbo because APS is impossible to get ahold of and getting replacement parts from them is a nightmare.