Does anyone know about Vortech cog belts killing a valve sensor and how to fix it?? Well It happend to me and its a nightmare, I looks like the belt was riding on the back of the tensioner pulley and the belt was getting chewed up. It Never came off. Just frayed. The threads in the belt whacked the wires coming out of the connector for the valve sensor and the car died while driving 75MPH on the highway. All the dash lights came on an rpms to zero. I would crank but not run. I have it a shop now and the diagnostic computer can't communicate with the car. That is a sign that the computer is dead from what I am told? Also could the CAN system be be the issue. Help- What can Ido. June 20 will be 2 months without my car. 4 tow trucks, 4 hours on the side of the highway and 2 service shops later and my car is still dead without a concrete diagnosis yet WTF. Any help would be great. and please don't tell me to go to a real shop or get a real car. I've heard all that from my "friends"

 

man sorry to hear bud. Must missed your car alot. I had my car in the shop for 2 whole months when I had my snow accident. Although the problems are different... not driving a G for that long of a time carries a tag on your spirit =(.

 

I've had 2 rentals already but I borrow my wife's Fx now it's way better than a rental car. The worst part of it all is that the owner of Speed Distributors/ Velocity Resources said it was no big deal to drive it that way, totally confident . When he drove me home after towing my car away that night. His daughter spilled the beans about her daddy taking it home and to the park. He put 1000 G.D. miles on my baby and probably drove the **** out of it. He used poor judgement and let me take the car. I'm just glad it didn't get me killed on the highway.

 

It doesnt sound like you have taken it to the dealer yet . You may have to break down and take it to them . Feel for ya bud

 

When I had my vortech this happened to me but I got the problem before it chewed through wires.

 

Has any one thought of making a shield , to protect the cam sensor ?

 

Did you get it fixed ? Still looking to make a shield to protect it

 

Hey Meeko
I saw your car at Z tech My friend works there I had to bring my car up there so they could make sure there diagnostice computer was working because your was not reading anything I guess so they tested it on my car. Well i haope it gets fixed soon and btw your car is so sick I love it

 

sorry to hear that, my cog belt snapped on me at lunch when i was leaving work. i have the same kit. i was worried about th belt slipping off as well. what do you suggest?

 

OK, I'm a very serious potential Vortec owner and I have a few questions.

1. Can anyone show a photo with maybe an arrow or two showing the belt being discussed and the location of the item getting thrashed?

2. How many miles are on the belts that are coming apart?

3. Is this belt problem due to the pulleys not being co-planar, is it due to extended use or something else?

4. Booger, how's that shield project coming along?

 

He is the first one that Ive heard of that a belt has come apart . It must have been to loose and flopping around , or a defective belt . The cog belt is made of the same material that timing belts are made of , so they should last 50,000 miles . Im trying to find out if I can remove a couple of bolts on the timing sensor with out messing things up , to bolt down a shield . As soon as I find out that , I'll be able to fabricate a shield up

 

STOP THE PRESSES!!! I just realized that MEEKOPEEKO is from CFL. Who did your install and tuning??? Please share! I want to make sure NOT to go there.

BTW, thanks Booger. Anyone with those photos layin' around?

 

I would post pics up but I don't have my car yet...almost 4 months now. New computer is in and running but the car was put on a dyno afterwards and was @ 307 hp....also it runs rich above 5000 rpm. I guess thats why the HP is low?- but A/F ratio is great below that rpm- What can I do to fix this. the shop says they can't flash the computer. Is this a fact? Does this mean I have to buy a custom chip? There is a disc in the Vortech FMU that you can change that controls the fuel flow- The stock disc is a # 8 and I was told my car has a # 12 disc now - the higher the # the more gas it lets thru the unit. That was done because my dealer pulled a lean code. and that was the 1st shops fix for that. But I don't know if that fixed the lean problem Or is creating the rich problem on the top end. I CAN'T GIVE UP. I THINK SOMEONE HAS THE ANSWERS IN THIS FORUM. ITS JUST A MATTER OF FINDING THAT PERSON. VORTECH GURU NEEDED!!

 

Are you using the Split Second box for fuel and timing management ? If so...it can be tuned very easily. You jujst need to find some one with the R4 program that controls the SS box and has tuned it before . You more than likely didnt need the #12 washer [ or disk ] Just a tune is all you needed . What type of dyno was used to get te 307whp ? If it was a load base dyno...the numbers are normal for a untuned Vortech . Call around your city to fine a shop that has tuned with the R4 program before .

 

If I didn't need the #12 washer, should put back the #8 washer and then get the car tuned? or leave the #12? I am not sure what type of dyno, but I'll find out. Once I find a R4 garage, Is there a ready made program to dump into the spark box for the G? or is it programmed specificly for my car? Can the shop that has my car get R4 software? and do it? I went to split sec web site- I will contact them tomarrow and pass this info onto the shop and see what they can do. I'll see how far this gets me- Thanks for the help- I'll post new news as I get it. I hope it is as easy as you said.