Actually has a more distinct whine as it spools up . Sounds meaner Yesssssss !!!!!

 

Thats something to think about right there. Initially, I thought PSI would be the best way to go, as there may be times when the engine is revving but there is no boost (step on the clutch to shift, for example). Also, pressure will vary from altitude to altitude!

But, thinking about it some more, thats a LOT of responsibility to put on your MAP! If that MAP were to go bad who knows what could happen. I'm sure the MAP is only used by the SS box, too, which doesn't help at all. It would be nice if you could use the MAP to read out a digital boost, so you can make sure the MAP is always calibrated close to actual pressure!

 

hmm, tuning a/f on rpm only doesnt sound very good at all. what if your belt is loose, or if the weather is significantly hotter or colder or humid or dry on the day you tuned? or what if you make a road trip from higher elevation (for example the track here is 3800 ft and the next one a couple hours away is 1800 ft)? way too many variables in the air to trust that its density will be the same as on the day you tuned it...

also ill revise my question, without rebuilding the SC or swapping for a different blower unit itself, and keeping the stock I/C how high can you take it with or without changing engine management?

this guy was in sport compact car:

 

From the sounds of it is looks like 10-11 psi is about all you want to run. Booger, does that sound right?

 

That was in a mag. So take it as what you think its worth . I saw the video of that car with the N02 sprayer on during the dyno pull . He was sucking in all that N02 into the air intake . So I would think it made a real big diff. on the hp numbers.
As far as the engine managment , your right , but what piggyback [ other than the new ones ] can adjust to elevation , temp , and humidity ? I dont know enough about it and enough about tuning , so I just tuned my car as was done by other good tuners that Ive seen maps of .

 

You are right there, there really isn't an 'ideal' way to do it. I was thinking about it and the APS TT uses a dedicated MAP sensor so I'm just as vulnerable as you. Kinda scary, if you think about it. What happens if the MAP sensor gets stuck closed and my Unichip (or your SS box) sees 2psi when you really have 11?

Why the hell do we build these cars up again????

 

Why the hell do we build these cars up again????
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lol

 

Anything can break. When Map sensors break they break showing 5V or over 28psi on a 3bar. It's only when it's intermiten(sp) when it acts weird. You will know this because your wideband will show it going way rich then normal then rich then normal, etc. Man you guys worry alot, lol.
PS-I do too!