Yep that's it, unbolt it, use a metal brush to clean up the chassis, the mating part of the 2-hole lug AND THE BOLT THREADS. Apply a very thin coat of electrical anti-oxidation grease to EVERYTHING including the threads to protect that connection in the future then bolt it all back together.

That ground definitely looks like it could be a problem.

 

Well I got it unbolted and now it’s gonna rain for the next half hour. Here what I found so far..

 

Well I got it all cleaned up and bolted back together. Started the car and let it warm up, no CEL. Drove 2 miles down the road and the car was running amazing. Pulled over, shut it off and restarted it and the CEL P0335 came back on.

At this point, even with the CEL on, the car is running good. The RPMs are where they should be, it wasn’t jerking or hesitating while accelerating but the CEL is still on. The one thing is the car is cranking long when starting. Not sure why that’s happening.

So not sure where to go at this point. Should I take it back to Nissan and have them do pinpoint testing on the wiring/wire harness? Or should I look into getting the flex plate/signal plate checked or replaced?

Any advice would be helpful!

 

WOW! That chassis ground was severely oxidized.

Long crank with P0335 is a classic symptom of a bad crank sensor. After re-reading the Nissan diagnostic report and seeing you have a SPLICE in the crank sensor wire I'm betting that's where the issue lies. If it's just a generic crimp butt splice connector that's probably the issue and you can solder/splice it properly to fix the problem (probably).

Find out where this splice is and try to determine WHY it was spliced. My guess is they damaged the wire sometime during installation. If it's in an accessible location then just replace it with a proper solder/splice.

If the harness itself looks like it has ANY damage or corrosion then replace the entire crank sensor harness, you can buy generic ones (for a VQ35DE crank sensor) from either your local auto parts house or vendors on the internet, it will need to be PROPERLY spliced, this includes using solder. This is something you CAN do yourself if you aren't comfortable using a traditional solder/shrink tube then buy a "solder shrink connector" for the size of wire (probably a red connector) and a heat gun (I won't hold it against you for using a trigger lighter, lord knows I've done it sooooo many times myself and I'm a journeyman wireman). They have a little bit of solder already built into the shrink tube and as you heat the tube it melts the solder onto the wires. Just make sure to twist the wires together thoroughly (I divide each wire into two bundles of strands, bend each in 90 degrees and hook the other wire's 90 degree bend then fold each side back on itself so they're HOOKED together then twist together well, then slide the solder shrink connector over until the solder part is right on top of where the two wires meet). Apply heat until the shrink tube is fully shrunk, then let it cool.

Typically I use those in places that are difficult to get a soldering iron

 

Yeah I had it cleaned up nice too, I was really hoping that was the solution

 

Th


This is what I would need for the harness right?

 

That looks like a universal connector for headlights.
Something like this is what you need:
https://conceptzperformance.com/wiri...de_p_21246.php

 

Thank you!

 

Now this morning the car started fine without cranking long and the RPMs were jumping and it jerked/hesitated going up a small hill.

It’s weird how it can drive perfectly and then the next day go back to this..

 

Typical for damaged electrical systems or faulty sensors. Intermittent problems...

That link for the connector was for a cam sensor, here's the website for Wiring Specialties DE engine components, they make good stuff.

https://www.wiringspecialties.com/vq35de.html

 

I just took my car to the store and it had an extended crank back and then ran perfect

Also is this the right harness?

 

Yeah that should be the correct part number.

 

Alright so I got under the car today and was checking out the harness. I took off the plastic spiral protection.. The yellow wired looks to be soldered and has a good connection. The red wire was electrical tapped up so I couldn’t see it’s connection and the ground was ran into the harness.. I couldn’t really see where it was spliced in or where the red wire ran.

I was pretty limited on what I could actually see and do laying under the car. I’m gonna have it get it up ramps or something to have more room to work. Thinking about having my local shop check out the harness and check the ground connection.

 

Also this was the write up from my first mechanic..

 

Personally I wouldn't waste anymore time troubleshooting that circuit, just pull a new ground wire up to M66 (behind the stereo, main ground for the ECM) and delete the factory black wire. Just cap it off down at the crank sensor and splice in the new one. That's all the same circuit for the cam sensor grounds as well, obviously there's problems with that circuit but the cam sensors are still functional so somewhere in the engine control harness the part that's supposed to go to the crank sensor likely is damaged.

Crimp on a new ring terminal and land it right on top of M66. EDIT: Make sure it actually lands on the same ground as the ECM, don't just land it on the chassis somewhere, or the battery, gotta land on the ECM ground M66 behind the stereo.