While waiting to meet up with someone tonight, I looked out my driver's side window and noticed what looked like a little scuff mark on my tint. It was about 1mm thick, 4 inches long, vertical starting about 3" from the top of the glass, about 6" in from the rear edge. I thought that was weird since I just washed them yesterday, so I felt it, and could tell right away it was a scratch... FFFFF I'm thinking. Well, that tint is destroyed IMO, so I roll down the window and when its about 8" from being all the way down I could hear the scratching. I rolled it up, and it was twice as bad! Up and down a few more times, and it's butchered.

I'm going to pull the door apart tomorrow to see what happened (I'm thinking a guide has worn out). Has anyone seen what is inside the door for guides?

 

Well judging by the service manual, it's part #5, "Glass Stabilizer"

 

Just pulled the door apart. The sedan does not have window stabilizers. It relies strictly on the two rails.

When I pulled the door finisher off, a brass screw fell to the ground. It was the top mounting screw to the rear window rail. The rail was flopping around, and because of the curvature of the window, once it was 3/4 of the way down, it rubbed on the glass. Problem fixed, now I just need a new slice of tint

Also the lower mounting screw was lose. That rail was ready to fall off. If I had the window rolled more than 1/2 way down, I heard a clunking when I shut the door. It's gone now. Thing's been lose since the day I got the car... rattle!

 

 

Wow four replies, all of them were yours. lol Anywhos...sorry your tint got messed up. One window should cost no more that $30.

 

dude, that happened to me 3 months ago.. i still havent gotten it fixxed yet.
my scratched tint looks exactly like yours and it makes that clunk sound too =/

you should write a DIY so i can follow your directions =P

 

Its easy. Follow me here:

Use a flat blade screw driver to pop up the window control box. There are two connectors, remove them, place the switches aside.

Behind the inner door handle is a little black tab. Remove that. It exposes one screw that you will remove.

The handle that you pull the door **** with: on the underside closest to the door latch there is a little hole you can place your flat bladed driver into. Pop that off, two more screws exposed.

On the bottom of the door there will be a little slot where you can get your finders in between the door frame and the door trim. Pop the door trim off by sliding your fingers around and upwards. There are a series of "pop-tabs" that will just pop out. Eventually the door will be pretty much "off". You'll need to remove the connector for the light on the bottom of the door and the two cables connected to the door handle. Note which one goes onthe top and bottom (ball on the bottom, "L" shape on top). I think now that door cover can be set aside, if I remember correctly.

So now you'll be staring at a big black cover.

STANDBY, I'm going to go take pictures and do it again, I'll be back!

 

I answer my own questions a lot...

$55 incl removal of old tint. Tint jobs are expensive up here, it was $250 for my whole car

 

maybe you should try a different shop, i did my entire car 5% excluding windshield for 120

 

Yikes!! Well the good thing about tinting the fronts is that they're the easier ones out of the 5. You could take it to almost any shop they should come out good.

 

lifetime warranty?

 

haha, awesome =) now thats what i call a motivated helper

 

It's not going to be until tomorrow, it's starting to get dark and the grille is on... but if you've waited this long, whats another 16 hours?

 

Not on scratching.... but speaking of that.... I put my meter on it... it's reading 5% OVER what I paid for... it should read 3-4 LESS... Maybe I'll try that approach... I think I got f'ed... I dunno....

 

OK. Pop off the cover behind the door handle, and remove the screw



Pop off the door pull cover (the hole for a flat-blade screw driver is on the bottom, closest to the rear). Remove two screws.


Pop off the window switch module, and remove two connectors.

Feel on the bottom of the door, there is a place you can get your fingers into to pull the door finisher off. Just give it a gentle pull, the tabs pop right out. Continue this all aronud until it is just "haning" by the top. Lift up, and you'll be able to look down between the door frame and the door finisher. Remove the connector on the light on the bottom, and the two cables to the door latch. Set aside the door finisher.

The screws that hold on the rails are in RED.



If the screws just need tightening, or you can line up the holes by rolling down the window and reaching inside, that's the easiest way. If the rail is so far away from the holes that it wont work, you need to remove the screws in blue (a couple are not pictured). First start with the 4 on the speaker then remove the speaker wire. Then do the other ones. I dont remember if you'll need to remove the yellow ones or not. That piece will stick to the door frame by some gasket, just a little pull will get it lose, and you should be able to reach in and align everything. Have fun