That's really good advice turbo. I never thought about this, but a car with less than 40K or 50K probably isn't going to have too many mechanical problems, especially when it's from a higher quality maker like Infiniti. And it's the previously wrecked car you want to avoid anyway, seeing as any mechanical problems that do exist would be covered under warranty.

 

wow thanks guys! yiu're all really helpful and have good stories hahah
so in conclusion, dont trust carfax and get it inspected by a quality mechanic.
thanks you guys are great!!

 

When i baught my car, my bro who worked for welsh fargo checked the VIN and told me the car is clean. I was 17 that time so only my uncle drove the car and said its good but he failed to notice that the driver door closes kind of funny and im actually starting to think it has been changed by the previous owner but the carfax for it was clean. Other than that everything else lines pretty well.

Also, whats infiniti's warrenty on the G's? 3yr 50k? 3yr 100k? or is it 5yr?

 

that's weird. As far as I know, anything that has been repaired or repainted from insurance company will be reported to Car Fax. Im not saying that Car Fax is good, CarFax sucks and that's true but once the insurance company spent their money to fix the car, the problem will be reported to Car Fax. It will take around 2-3 months for Car Fax to upgrade the info, but the problem will be in there. And any damages that affect the frame will also be reported to Car Fax. So if the car has a clean title from Car Fax, then you dont have to worry about the frame. All you have to do is to check the paint and engine, and it is all up to you.

 

yeah right, but it doesn't happen that way. the insurance companies do not want to report & up until very recently have not really been forced to report. part of the reason the insurance companies would rather not report is to avoid diminished values claims... if an accident shows up on carfax then the vehicle owner has a right to claim a diminished value in resale & would deserve compensation of that loss in value as a result of the claim & included in that claim... insurance companies are against stuff like carfax for those reasons & will only report when they are forced too... up until recently it was suggested that they report any damages over $2,500 & any damages that affect the structure, but most claims just never get reported to carfax despite this... up until recently the only thing that was 100% mandatory to report was totaled or in excess of 80% value in damages, but even this can be avoided by crafty insurance companies... if this was truly enforced then you'd never be able to buy a wreck with a clean title, but we all know that these do still exist... carfax is a joke

I have done a ton of large repairs & almost none have ever been reported. my fx was a hair away from a total loss when I bought it from the customer who owned it... 100% completely clean carfax....one of my previous caddies was literally cut in half & got a new front clip from another donor that was smashed in the rear, again, 100% squeaky clean if you asked carfax...


& oh yeah, as far as fooling mechanics... that's really not so hard... a mechanic will tell you stuff like brakes are half way... minor leak here or maybe a service needed there, but these are not the things to worry most about when buying a later model used car... unless a prior repair is glaringly obvious the average mechanic can miss it. I fix plenty of cars that get returned to the dealer & they don't even know they were hit... honestly they don't even care that they were hit, all they care about is that it's not obvious & that the carfax is clean... way more cars out there are hit & repaired cars than most people realize... detecting damage can be a great bargaining tool in a used car purchase too, it sucks to pay the price of a virgin & wind up with a pretty little *****... if your saving an apropriate amount of $$ though & the repair wasn't shody then a repaired car is not always the worse thing... just as long as you know & save because of it, rather than paying top dollar & finding out after the fact...

 

Bumper to bumper: 48 months or 60K miles from original in-service date (first date it was titled to a new owner).
Power train: 72 months or 70K miles
CPO: 72 months or 100K bumper to bumper, excluding Audio and Nav systems (these are still 48/60K)
Elite Plan: Length depends on which one you get, it's the same coverage as the CPO but includes Audio and Nav. It is also one-time transferable to a new owner. Elite plans also come with other minor extras.