2003 g35 coupe might pick up tmr good deal?
#1
2003 g35 coupe might pick up tmr good deal?
What's up G owners!
I'm looking into g35s and wondering what you guys think about this
Car and if you think I should move on and find something with a cleaner body!
Or is this rust removal gonna be an easy DIY to sand bondo and repaint?
Or what would a body shop charge for this level of rust to be done over all car is clean minor scratches interior is clean small rip in classic g 35 spot
The steering wheel is pretty worn might just buy a cover or get one at the scrap yard !
2003 G35 Auto Coupe 190k Kilometers ( what do you guys think is 4000$ Too much look at the pics i have about 6 k for a car right now )
on a side note would these 205/50/r17 rims and tires fit on it?
Going to inspect tomorrow with my
mechanic ! Would you pick it up Mags on my accord
looks pretty clean i would tint it some more
rust how would you deal with this
and would sanding this and bondo on this be a dyi or is this a body shop job
I'm looking into g35s and wondering what you guys think about this
Car and if you think I should move on and find something with a cleaner body!
Or is this rust removal gonna be an easy DIY to sand bondo and repaint?
Or what would a body shop charge for this level of rust to be done over all car is clean minor scratches interior is clean small rip in classic g 35 spot
The steering wheel is pretty worn might just buy a cover or get one at the scrap yard !
2003 G35 Auto Coupe 190k Kilometers ( what do you guys think is 4000$ Too much look at the pics i have about 6 k for a car right now )
on a side note would these 205/50/r17 rims and tires fit on it?
Going to inspect tomorrow with my
mechanic ! Would you pick it up Mags on my accord
looks pretty clean i would tint it some more
rust how would you deal with this
and would sanding this and bondo on this be a dyi or is this a body shop job
#2
I've always said that I wouldn't buy the first year model for any new car because they always improve with the following years. But, the g35 started out pretty reliable so wouldnt be too worried about that. I'd walk away from a car with rust like that though. If the quarter panel is rusting who knows how the car looks under. The QP is the most expensive panel on the car to replace and rust repair can be a lot of money. Often times they'll have to cut the pieces of rust out and weld in new metal
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Brandon Lauren (04-04-2018)
#3
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Personally I'd pass, that's pretty high miles (over 100k) so you're going to be replacing a lot of components already just to get it back to the original performance, couple that with body rust and an automatic transmission and that's a deal breaker.
If it had a 6mt MAYBE, if it had brembo's MAYBE. In that condition it looks like it's worth about $3k, and even then I would probably pass.
If it had a 6mt MAYBE, if it had brembo's MAYBE. In that condition it looks like it's worth about $3k, and even then I would probably pass.
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Brandon Lauren (04-04-2018)
#4
#5
190 000 km is = 118 060 miles would that be considered high for this car? im going to get it inspected today and i was thinking if ts good mechanically i can look for parts maybe buy fenders off a salvaged G I've done paint work on other cars that came out nice but never rust being here in Canada all cars have rust its pretty hard to keep it rust free any other advice?
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During the inspection have them pay particular attention to the rear differential bushing that's in the subframe next to the muffler, chances are it's already blown out it's goo long ago so there might not be any noticeable oil markings but if it's cracked AT ALL it needs to be replaced. Same goes for practically every rubber suspension bushing on the rest of the vehicle particularly the front suspension.
Work each window up/down in both manual and automatic mode a few times, if they seem sluggish or the auto up/down doesn't work properly then you can also plan on window motors in the future. Take the splash protector off the bottom so the engine bay can be properly inspected from below, look for any signs of fluid leakage. Spin each tire with the vehicle off the ground and pull/pry to check for wheel bearing damage, ball joint damage, etc.
Check tires for uneven wear. Road test over bumps to check struts.
I would expect it needs at least the rear diff bushing, possibly ball joints, struts, and the window motors will likely fail in the next year or so. If you are able to do all these repairs yourself then it's only like $450 in parts not including struts, if you are going to have to pay a mechanic to do all these repairs then your $4k car is going to very quickly turn into a $6k one.
Body rust usually means that every single fastener under the car will be an absolute BITCH to remove when you tackle these repairs.
If you haven't already, DEMAND to be present for a cold start of the vehicle. Verify this yourself by popping the hood and putting your hand on the exhaust (be careful in case they're lying about not starting the vehicle because it could be really hot), have the owner start the vehicle while you stand at the exhaust tips and look for ANY signs of smoke, listen to the rhythm of the exhaust as it's warming up, does it make an irregular (thud-thudthud---thud----thud thud) sound that indicates a slight miss or does it sound very even.
Typically removing spark plugs isn't part of a pre-purchase inspection but replacing them will likely be the very first thing you want to do, along with a new air filter and cabin filter.
Work each window up/down in both manual and automatic mode a few times, if they seem sluggish or the auto up/down doesn't work properly then you can also plan on window motors in the future. Take the splash protector off the bottom so the engine bay can be properly inspected from below, look for any signs of fluid leakage. Spin each tire with the vehicle off the ground and pull/pry to check for wheel bearing damage, ball joint damage, etc.
Check tires for uneven wear. Road test over bumps to check struts.
I would expect it needs at least the rear diff bushing, possibly ball joints, struts, and the window motors will likely fail in the next year or so. If you are able to do all these repairs yourself then it's only like $450 in parts not including struts, if you are going to have to pay a mechanic to do all these repairs then your $4k car is going to very quickly turn into a $6k one.
Body rust usually means that every single fastener under the car will be an absolute BITCH to remove when you tackle these repairs.
If you haven't already, DEMAND to be present for a cold start of the vehicle. Verify this yourself by popping the hood and putting your hand on the exhaust (be careful in case they're lying about not starting the vehicle because it could be really hot), have the owner start the vehicle while you stand at the exhaust tips and look for ANY signs of smoke, listen to the rhythm of the exhaust as it's warming up, does it make an irregular (thud-thudthud---thud----thud thud) sound that indicates a slight miss or does it sound very even.
Typically removing spark plugs isn't part of a pre-purchase inspection but replacing them will likely be the very first thing you want to do, along with a new air filter and cabin filter.
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