ok im at 3000 on my second g35 coupe.

i never used synthetic on my old one but this one is a 6mt.

i went to my local shop and i got a oem filter plus they put 5w30 SHELL FORMULA synthetic oil.

is htis a good choice and what is the benefit of going synthetic

so your at 3,000,000 miles? now THATS impressive.

im sure you meant 3k, or 3,000. not three thousand thousand

i dont know anything about oil though, sorry.

anyway, I think that 10w30 is the standard for our cars.

The 5w or 10w describes the viscosity of the oil at cold. The number that comes on after that describes the viscosity at normal temperatures, so i think that you should be ok with 5w30 but i think in hotter climates 10w30 is the more appropriate. I am pretty sure thats correct, but i am not 100%

German Castrol 0W30. The stuff is awesome.

Great UOA results over on BITOG and ever since I've been running it in my car, much to my surprise and initial doubts, the motor actually runs smoother at higher RPM's than it did with Mobil 1(thicker oil probably).

only man who is right is partyman.

0w or 5w is best, i dont care if you live on top of the equator, it cant be too thin on startup.

German Castrol 0w-30 is one great oil, the VQ's love it.

Atleast you used synthetic, good choice, shell...meh, its fine for 3-5 thousand depending on where you live/how you drive, but i would stick with Mobil One, Amsoil, or as perviously mentioned that special castrol.

Also, your fine dont worry but just as a heads up, these Vq's seem to like to wait until about 20k before getting synthetic...just FYI

I use either Mobile One or Royal Purple. Been using Mobile One for the last 5 years and recently switched to Royal Purple. Use what is recommended, 5w-30. No reason to give Nissan the chance to say you used the wrong viscosity, especially if you need some warranty work done on the engine....just a thought. Red Line oil is great, its $7.00 a quart. I extended my oil changes out to 5k intervals.

I recently switched to Motul - - it's some of the best (at least that's what my Performance Shop swears by)! ...ain't cheap, though.

I take that back, try $8.50 a quart!

mobil one

Royal Pruple, is acceptable as well
Redline, Great great oil, but i believe its not API certified, so not a good choice if your under warranty
Motul...mmmm delicious but hard to get my paws on

Well, if you're in the Baltimore area, no prob - - I can put you in contact with my supplier. Even if you're not in the Baltimore area, still may be able to connect you. Shoot me a PM and we'll plot a strategy!

Nowhere near baltimore, currently im running GC and M1, other than that i have to look because i think i found a semi local motul and elf dealer.

ok so whats the best oil for me..

i live in new york hot summers cold winters..

5w30 10w30 or 0w30 .i noticed the shift and knocking on my coupe is a lot better since i went syntho

Motor oil type or grade won't affect your shifting at all unless the new oil you put in is soo unbelievably viscous that it adds significant resistance to the motors natural motion.. causing your RPM's to drop quicker when the clutch is disengaged or the gearbox is in neutral. The transmission and motor are 2 seperate entities, and there is no fluid flow or exchange between the 2.

Based on the way our cars are geared, if you were to notice any change in the cars shifting temperment when switching from dino to synthetic oil, it would probably be that the car jerks more between gears because the synthetic oil is allowing the motor to spin in a slightly less impeded fashion, thus keeping your RPM's a tad higher between shifts. In all likelyhood, you'd never notice the difference though because it would be soo minimal.

Motor oil numerical viscocity ratings are broken down into 2 parts, for example in a 5W30 oil, Part 1 is the 5W and part 2 is the 30. The first 5W part indicates the oils viscocity when the oil is cold(the W stands for Winter, thus equates to cold... technically it refers to the oils viscocity at 0 degrees F). The second number indicates the oils viscocity when the oil has reached operating temperature. The higher the number, the more viscous the oil is... so the 30 rating is a lot thicker than the 0 rating, and the 0 rating will flow better. The reason for having 2 viscocity ratings, are that the 5W30 oil in our example, will start off flowing easily when you start the vehicle up on a cold morning... but as the temperature of the oil increases, the viscocity will also increase to the rating of 30.

I personally go with the German Castrol because it covers all the bases and has been proven time and time again based on tons of Used Oil Analysis results. You can only get this oil in the US in a 0W30. It's also generally wise to drive the car somewhat lightly until it warms up a bit in cold weather(generally only takes a minute or 2 to warm up a tad), so that the oil can reach operating viscocity and offer full protection.

0w-30, its the best for any application that requires a 30 weight....(unless its someting real strange that uses like a SAE 30)