Well I guess depends on the conditions too. My car is pretty much stock around town but on the high way....that's a different story. So I guess it depends no the situation.

Touche, touche.

 

yeah i was talking like straight runs.. from dig/rolls

 

Probably a stillen SC if I had to guess. I'd be really surprised if it was anything else, maybe a basic Vortech without any upgrades. But 99% of the time we're talking about 330 whp and up, gonna be really hard for a car that weighs 200 lbs more to beat that. Until they perfect those TT kits for the G37! I've seen one up close and personal. They were only running it at 5 psi though, some fears about the plenum exploding.

 

Are there two threads on this?

 

lol there testing the tt right now it stands at 6xx hp and i forget how much torque!!!

 

g37 owners look at g35 owners like yea, Im in something newer. But stand your ground lil tiger, JUST Gun ITT =]

I had 1 of them chasing my tail on the highway, Literally Up my butt, i couldnt see his headlights. i said **** it somebody gotta school him, and I got on it, Had him chasin me for a goooood long time about 3 -4 cars behinds, probably didnt end the way he was plannin ( with him infront of me) lol

 

I think you probably mean 312 estimated HP at the crank. Wheel horsepower means that's how much flat power was detected by your dyno at the rollers without doing any math to try to figure out how much the drivetrain loss has taken away from the engines original output. You would had to have built the VQ35HR up completely.. meaning cams, higher compression pistons, and possibly bored, with lightweight pulleys, and with all the breathing mods(intake and exhaust) plus a solid tune to get that much power at the wheels on an automatic tranny G35 Sedan(or Coupe for that matter).

Most people with the VQ35HR and and exhaust work will put down around 245-250 HP to the wheels on an auto tranny. Even if you tested it on a Dynapack, that's still way too much HP for wheels without having every mod in the book on the car.

Dynapack dynos tend to read a little higher in final HP/TQ numbers because they measure the power at the hubs with the wheels off the car(wheel weight tends to skew the numbers and make them lower, particularly if you have big heavy wheels like your 20" wheels).

 

Solution for tailgaters...lift off the throttle. Works every time. It doesn't look intentional like a brake check.

 

Don't forget how much those kits and supporting mods cost though, there won't be one on every main street for a while. I'm really curious what the "safe/stable" setup will produce, the equivalent of the 400 whp rule for G35s. I have a feeling the transmission is the bottleneck, ironically, even though the motor is ten times stronger, if the tranny explodes at 420 ft-lbs (wheels) there might not be much difference between FI G35s and G37s performance-wise. What we're seeing right now are the monsters that shops are building, what actually ends on the street as the practical, safe kits will probably be a lot less intense.

 

An aggressive downshift is even better... that is, if you actually want a new bumper

 

Or if your car is already dirty .... use your windshield wipers and spray water onto their car.

My friends do that to me all the time....pisses me off.

 

Never thought of that......HRMMMMM....NEW body kit and paint? lol. I have been messed with by this guy in a mustang cobra, I know he can smoke me but I get in front and kok-block him, then a big smile when he gets next to me

 

"It's called a swoop, and squat - and it's costing you money."

 

You should have gave him a break check.

 

Haha. I hate it when people do this. I might try this trick next time.