Hi all,

I bought my TB G35 coupe about three months ago. So far I've been enjoying the ride. However, I borrowed a friend's old Gtech and it seems that my car is a little on the slow end. The best 0-60 time that I got was 6.91s, the worst was 7.39s. What's up with that. That's no better than my heavily modded IS300. I was expecting 6.0 to 6.5s, at most.

I've tried the following:

1. I did runs with both VDC on and off
2. Tried both manual mode and auto mode
3. I've done an ECU reset using the gas pedal routine

The best run was with VDC on, auto mode, and before the ECU reset.

I babied it up to 1200 miles and I have about 4600 miles on it now. The only mods I have are a K&N filter, Ztube, and grounding kit.

My car always felt like it was a bit slow. I am very, very concerned that I may have a dud. Should I complain to the dealership? Perhaps I should have somebody drive it to verify. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

-Roland

2004 Twilight Blue G35C / 5AT

 

Have you tried brake torquing?

It's bascially preloading the torque convertor. You hold the brake and give it gas until it reaches the point where it wants to overpower the brakes, should be around 1500-2000 RPMs. Then you let of the brake while mashing the gas. It's as close to a maunal launch as you'll get in an auto car without SMG.

Also, I wouldn't trust the old GTech timers. The new ones are supposed to be good, but the old ones were not so good.

 

The only other thing you could try is to rev it up to 2000 rpms with your foot on the brake and then release the brake and stomp on it. The best 0 to 60 times I saw written in the car magazines was 6.0 for the 5AT plus the old G-Tech Pros aren't most accurate things.

Hope this helps.

 

I have a G Tech Pro Comp and have a few observations.

1) If the road is not level you will get inaccurate readings. Do a run one way, then the other. Note the difference. I use a GPS to find roads that are relative flat. It's not easy.

2) Check the staging setting. Is it set at 0", 6", or 12"? You will get drastically different times depending on what this is set at.

3) Did you calibrate it before each run? You have to do a quick 0-20 ish run, then back up, then reset the run and delete it, then go. This ensures that you're at 0 "g"s before launch.

4) Finally, unless you recorded the ambient temperature, the pressure (in inches of mercury), the humidity, and the altitude, the numbers you read won't mean squat. If you give me your zip code, I can give you the phone number of the closest airport that will provide this information to you real time. You may need help interpreting the AWOS (automated weather observation system) but I will be happy to help. Once you have that info, you can "correct" the numbers.
http://www.smokemup.com can help you correct them.


2004.5 Coupe/5AT/Ivory/Everything but front spoiler/Nismo CAI/Crawford V5

 

I think the old G-Tech Pros where also very sensitive to where you put them on window. Sometimes it seemed it was right on and others it was off big time but I can't remember you having to do so many corrections on the old g-tech pros to get them to give you accurate results. I think it was position it right and one other correction but once again the correction was for the way to position the unit.

 

-fish,

Wouldn't a 1/4 mile time just be easier? [img]/w3timages/icons/tongue.gif[/img] I didn't know that I'd need a degree in meterology just to accurately record my 0-60 times, geesh! [img]/w3timages/icons/wink.gif[/img]

301-bhp!!! ...and growing!

 

A degree in meteorology or your pilot's certificate, either will do . Seriously though a 1/4 mile time can vary quite a bit based on Density Altitude. If you play around with real life weather variables you'll find up to nearly a full second difference. Oh yeah, that reminds me, you really need to know your winds too...and frontal area of the G....for a corrected HP reading from the G tech.

2004.5 Coupe/5AT/Ivory/Everything but front spoiler/Nismo CAI/Crawford V5

 

Oh wellz... but we sure know it is faster than IS300 or any car that is in the 6 seconds range ^_^

That is, if we get slow, they get slower, hoho

 

Assuming all the magazines did their testing on a "standard day". I doubt it. Of course an IS300 is a no brainer in any case .

2004.5 Coupe/5AT/Ivory/Everything but front spoiler/Nismo CAI/Crawford V5

 

Thanks for the replies. I guess I'll try the brake torquing method. I just wanted peace of mind that it wasn't something wrong with my car. Recently, I forgot that I was in MM and I redlined it accidentally. Not sure if this hurt the car at all. If this is normal for 5AT then that's okay. I'll just need to start modding more. In addition I'm using a pretty old Gtech that my friend got for free. My car only feels weak from 0-30 mph, after 30 mph my G feels like it pulls much harder than my old IS ever did.

-Roland

2004 Twilight Blue G35C / 5AT

 

Firefox... that's a bad g-tech. I promise you that. I have got the Pro Competition and it is highly consistent.

I have tested an 03.5 stock g35 loaner and it was consistently in the 6.2-6.3 range. So don;t worry.

Gurgen

 

i think that gtech is just wrong.

 

At 90 degrees in Denver with an 85 degree dewpoint, the G Tech would be being kind.

2004.5 Coupe/5AT/Ivory/Everything but front spoiler/Nismo CAI/Crawford V5

 

Well I'll just need to buy a Gtech pro comp to relieve my paranoia. Or maybe I can find someone around here that has one and save my money for mods. I didn't realize far the Gtech's have come along.

-Roland

2004 Twilight Blue G35C / 5AT

 

For the price of one you can just do 3 dyno sessions for about the same money. You can get one for $250 shipped. After I mod the underside of the car, mine's up for sale. I did a baseline, one after my under the hood mods, and I'll do another under the carriage. In retrospect, I would have just sprung for the dynos. Only thing the dyno won't tell you is what your "weight mods" result in. The G Tech is nice in that respect.

2004.5 Coupe/5AT/Ivory/Everything but front spoiler/Nismo CAI/Crawford V5