help! tuned and dyno'd today.. sad numbers
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help! tuned and dyno'd today.. sad numbers
okay guys check this out, let me start off with the mods that i have before i tuned.
Injen CAI - Stillen Full Catback Exhaust System - Stillen Straight Pipes - DC Ceramic Headers 3-1 - UR 3 Piece Pulley Kit - Blox 5/16 Spacer - Unichip
Before the tune i dyno'd at 232 WHP and 224 TQ... After the Tune i got 249WHP and 232TQ
I thought i was going to get near near 275+whp..
I also have a set of Tenzo GF-7 19inch rims with high profile tires.. dunno if that does anything.. any feed back would be great!
Injen CAI - Stillen Full Catback Exhaust System - Stillen Straight Pipes - DC Ceramic Headers 3-1 - UR 3 Piece Pulley Kit - Blox 5/16 Spacer - Unichip
Before the tune i dyno'd at 232 WHP and 224 TQ... After the Tune i got 249WHP and 232TQ
I thought i was going to get near near 275+whp..
I also have a set of Tenzo GF-7 19inch rims with high profile tires.. dunno if that does anything.. any feed back would be great!
#7
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That does not sound too far off to me. You have an 04 so that is the 280 horse motor. If you assume 17% drivetrain loss, that's about 232 at the wheels. The exhaust, intake and pulley should add around 10-15 wheel hp tops, the spacer mostly adds midrange (I think it actually lowers top end) and I have no idea about the unichip. So it seems your dyno run returned slightly lower numbers than expected, but not by all that much. There is no way those mods would return 275 wheel hp as that would equate to about 331 hp at the crank. That's 51 more than stock and you are not going to get that without some really serious mods or FI. The wheel and tire size, as you mentioned, may be the culprit. If they are larger in diameter than the originals then you effective raised the final drive ratio which will lower hp reading. If they are heavy too, that will rob a couple hp too. Any other differences could easily be attributed to errors in the test process.
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it was on a dynojet, he said if i was in utah id prolly have like 10hp more.. lol?
ya ive seen stock get similar numbers... its a real buster man i dont know what to do now. before the tune this was me against my friends S2k
he has some custom 1grand intake and straight pipes.
still beat him but not by much.
ya ive seen stock get similar numbers... its a real buster man i dont know what to do now. before the tune this was me against my friends S2k
he has some custom 1grand intake and straight pipes.
still beat him but not by much.
#12
Originally Posted by Aimen
okay guys check this out, let me start off with the mods that i have before i tuned.
Injen CAI - Stillen Full Catback Exhaust System - Stillen Straight Pipes - DC Ceramic Headers 3-1 - UR 3 Piece Pulley Kit - Blox 5/16 Spacer - Unichip
Before the tune i dyno'd at 232 WHP and 224 TQ... After the Tune i got 249WHP and 232TQ
I thought i was going to get near near 275+whp..
I also have a set of Tenzo GF-7 19inch rims with high profile tires.. dunno if that does anything.. any feed back would be great!
Injen CAI - Stillen Full Catback Exhaust System - Stillen Straight Pipes - DC Ceramic Headers 3-1 - UR 3 Piece Pulley Kit - Blox 5/16 Spacer - Unichip
Before the tune i dyno'd at 232 WHP and 224 TQ... After the Tune i got 249WHP and 232TQ
I thought i was going to get near near 275+whp..
I also have a set of Tenzo GF-7 19inch rims with high profile tires.. dunno if that does anything.. any feed back would be great!
The numbers sound decent for the mods u have. It's hard to determine bc u didnt get numbers while u were stock. U have to remember that u can't just do ricer math and say intake makes 5whp + exhaust 10whp = 15whp.
I had the similar setup as u with intake, exhaust, spacers, headers, cats, ur pulleys, unichip and I only made 245whp on a DD dyno (5at) so dont feel bad... get FI
#14
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Ok, the actual numbers themselves mean nothing. ALL dynos read different, and changes in temperature, altitude, etc factor in greatly. It's just the delta (change in hp/tq) that matters.
Furthermore, you've got to realize that simple bolt-ons don't do much for the G... if you want a real power increase, then it's gotta be F/I. A 17whp increase sounds about right... if you want more top-end, why don't you ask them to raise the rev-limiter to 7100 or so?
Furthermore, you've got to realize that simple bolt-ons don't do much for the G... if you want a real power increase, then it's gotta be F/I. A 17whp increase sounds about right... if you want more top-end, why don't you ask them to raise the rev-limiter to 7100 or so?