Hey everyone i am new to this forum and i was wondering if anyone would help me out with some info on the G35 Coupe Auto, before i had an 2003 V6 Honda Accord. It was ok but i loved the G35 even more so i had to beg my parents to get me one. I had my accord for 7 months and only put 3.900 miles on it. I try not to drive so much because i dont like to miles on my car thats just the way i am but since i got the G35 ive been driving it more and the Gas miles suck on it i can see my gas go down the drain. I made another post asking people when does the G35 break in and people told me its 1,200 and i had my car since May 17 and i think i have 780 Miles and i have been babyin my car i didnt let it go past 2.2 RPM becuz i try to be very careful in not messing it up(Its wayyy more expensive then the accord). People have been telling me not to baby my car so today i went for a drive and started ReVin my car but i also see the gas slowly going down every time i REV it up. So what i am asking is i have 780 Miles and i just started to get rough with my car how long do i have to keep REVin it up until it is borken into? How will i know? Also, If i were to buy a intake does it really save gas miles?

 

keep driving it like a bitch till you hit 1200 than get rough with it. And yes Intake does help your gas mileage. Better air flow = more hp/ and better mpg

04 G35 Coupe Coming May 04. 6MT

 

But remember not to stomp on the gas too much..!! After 3k rpm the sound of the intake will be intoxicating!!!

03.5s/Brillant Silver/Premium/Sport/Winter Pkg

 

i thought hp and mpg were on opposite sides of the fence.

04 6mtC, DG - possibly most babied G on the board.

 

...well we all know that intakes only give between 0-5rwhp at WOT, (and only after 5500 rpms), so you will not gain anything but better gas mileage for 99% of the time you're driving. If you're driving at over 5500rpm, gas mileage should be the last thing on your mind. Redline, Redline, Redline SHIFT![img]/w3timages/icons/smile.gif[/img]

<font color=blue>The above statements are only my take on the issue. If you disagree with anything I typed then you are 100% right!</font color=blue>

 

More AIR FLOW requires more fuel to balance the equation!

Modern cars are precisely controlled as to AF ratio because the cats require it to function in a very narow range at least at idle and cruise.

 

<blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr>

More AIR FLOW requires more fuel to balance the equation!

<hr></blockquote>

That's exactly what I was thinking. If you have a tube that allows more air in, won't the ECU compensate with more fuel injection to better balance the mix ?
It seems quite obvious that if anything, your overall MPG should actually drop rather than improve.

Am I wrong here?


My G-enie

 

Also, if more air = better MPG, then you should probably expect a whopping improvement in MPG with a FI, which forces massive amount of air into the engine. ... I don't think so....




My G-enie

 

Yeah, but what if you are leaning out your car? A slight increase in air might not trigger a slight increase in fuel, thus the lean condition that people "think" that they are seeing.

<font color=blue>The above statements are only my take on the issue. If you disagree with anything I typed then you are 100% right!</font color=blue>

 

so does intakes give better miles or not im always hearing two sides of the story does anyone know for a fact?

 

you wont find a consensus more than likey as there is no way to detrmine what is factual without an AF guage

2003.5 DP 5AT Sedan (E-thing but Nav)
14.2 @ 97.18
Z-Tube
K&N Drop In & Airbox Mod
10 Wire Hyper-Ground
Crawford Plenum (V4)
UR Crank Pulley
Polk EX-3500 Tweeters/Shock Sensor/H-Liner

 

you wont find a consensus more than likey as there is no way to detrmine what is factual without an AF guage

2003.5 DP 5AT Sedan (E-thing but Nav)
14.2 @ 97.18
Z-Tube
K&N Drop In & Airbox Mod
10 Wire Hyper-Ground
Crawford Plenum (V4)
UR Crank Pulley
Polk EX-3500 Tweeters/Shock Sensor/H-Liner

 

Does an intake take more gas or not? For people who have intakes please tell me your expierence with it

 

to tell you the truth, i dont see an improvement in gas mileage after the intake was installed. they tell you that before you buy the intake though. so im assuming it helps only a little little tiiiiiiiiiny bit.

 

The purpose of the MAF is to measure the air flow corrected for density and to be ACCURATE within +- 2% or better*.
The MAF output voltage varies from 1.000 volts to 5.000 volts in 0.001 volt resolution steps..........that is 4,000 POSSIBLE increments of air flow from 6 grams per second at idle to around 225 grams per second at WOT redline.

Airflow vs. hp is 1.5 to 1.6 cubic feet per minute for each hp developed. A standard cubic foot of air weighs about 0.0765 pounds on a standard 15C day. 1 HP ~~= 0.868275 grams per second.

Realistically 800 steps each in 1/4 gram steps is enough for ecu, since the resolution of injector open time is really only 2-10 milliseconds in 0.01 millisecond steps.........800 fuel steps.

There is a CORRECT injector opening step for each step of 1/4 gram air flow to create the correct AF ratio.

In acceleration fuel consumption doesn't matter and performance and safety are the main considerations! Therefore a richer mixture than 14.7 [12.5>10:1]is used to cool the cats, pistons, heads, engine in general........plus the extra gasoline ensures that every oxygen molecule has plenty of opportunity to react with gasoline on all sides.......unburned fuel just flows out the exhaust mostly unchanged. Too rich reduces power only slightly compared to too lean which has a greater impact.

To measure air flow all you have to do is use an OBD2 scanner which shows the value in grams per second that the ecu uses in its calculation, also shows the resultant injector opening times [for both banks as they can vary based on feedback from O2 sensors].

* MAF of the 1990's usually had a seperate air intake temp sensor not colocated with the MAF so they were only 3% accurate.

Because of the exponential voltage rise [shape of the voltage curve] the MAF accuracy [resolution] gets best at highest flows and worse at low flows like idle.

There is a reaction delay time so the MAF voltage always lags behind the actual air flow but usually less than half a second so the ecu GUESSES based on preprogramming and TPS and rpm valvues what the INSTANTANEOUS air flow really is.

When you accelerate in a Dynojet dyno test the low load on the wheels [faster acceleration] than real world roads confuses some ecus. Why only Mustang Dynos give accurate [more accurate] readings of power [as they slow the acceleration down to real quatermile times with a water or eddy brake simulating air resistance at speeds.