Toe Bolts on RAS G35
Hey all,
I have an 06 G coupe with RAS (Rear Active Steering).
I've been trying to install toe bolts that came with the SPC kit but all the DIY and videos I've seen are for cars without RAS. (even from Stillen, turbokinetics...etc).
My spring bucket is not aluminum, at least it does not look like it (see pic below).
Has anybody grinded/Dremel through a toe bolt slot to enlarge it on a G35 with RAS?
If yes, is it safe?
Hellllp, I've been sitting on these bolts for 2 weeks now!
Here's my car's spring bucket and rear toe bolt

And here what a non-RAS G35 looks like...

You can see that they're totally different and the non-RAS seems so easy to grind compared to mine
I have an 06 G coupe with RAS (Rear Active Steering).
I've been trying to install toe bolts that came with the SPC kit but all the DIY and videos I've seen are for cars without RAS. (even from Stillen, turbokinetics...etc).
My spring bucket is not aluminum, at least it does not look like it (see pic below).
Has anybody grinded/Dremel through a toe bolt slot to enlarge it on a G35 with RAS?
If yes, is it safe?
Hellllp, I've been sitting on these bolts for 2 weeks now!
Here's my car's spring bucket and rear toe bolt

And here what a non-RAS G35 looks like...

You can see that they're totally different and the non-RAS seems so easy to grind compared to mine
I don't think that would be safe..I got RAS too..How are you managing with mods on it? We're very limited to parts sadly..Maybe someone else can shed some light on this..I'd like to know as well.
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There's some longer toe bolts available from SPC for cars with RAS. I've ran those on my RAS coupe for the past year, no problems at all.
Thank you
so I talked to Doug @ spc and he told me that since the spring bucket on a RAS car directly attaches to a steering component, you cannot drill through it to elongate the slots because:
1 - it's not aluminum
2- the steering adjusts the toe while driving so you have to keep the stock bolts and max them out to a setting that allows for the most positive camber.
Now, I'm kind of stuck with having only some positive camber and I will have to continue to run more negative than specs because of this issue.
Alex
1 - it's not aluminum
2- the steering adjusts the toe while driving so you have to keep the stock bolts and max them out to a setting that allows for the most positive camber.
Now, I'm kind of stuck with having only some positive camber and I will have to continue to run more negative than specs because of this issue.
Alex
so I talked to Doug @ spc and he told me that since the spring bucket on a RAS car directly attaches to a steering component, you cannot drill through it to elongate the slots because:
1 - it's not aluminum
2- the steering adjusts the toe while driving so you have to keep the stock bolts and max them out to a setting that allows for the most positive camber.
Now, I'm kind of stuck with having only some positive camber and I will have to continue to run more negative than specs because of this issue.
Alex
1 - it's not aluminum
2- the steering adjusts the toe while driving so you have to keep the stock bolts and max them out to a setting that allows for the most positive camber.
Now, I'm kind of stuck with having only some positive camber and I will have to continue to run more negative than specs because of this issue.
Alex
I have RAS, I got the longer toe bolts directly from SPC. I did the arm install and hole elongation myself and took it to Infiniti for the alingment. I am totally in spec.
Go to their website, click on application/parts, then application, then choose your vehicle. infiniti g35 coupe w/rear active steer is an option and after you select you will see the parts available. The toe bolts for ras cars is part number 72265. The non-ras bolts are a different part number, 72055
Last edited by PTownG; Nov 7, 2009 at 02:49 PM.
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I've been wondering this myself.
I have RAS and getting my FI exhaust to fit (even for it to clear my ras) was a pain because I have aftermarket suspension components all over the car where as the FI exhaust is made to factory specs without modification.
Good luck and keep us posted.
I have RAS and getting my FI exhaust to fit (even for it to clear my ras) was a pain because I have aftermarket suspension components all over the car where as the FI exhaust is made to factory specs without modification.
Good luck and keep us posted.
**UPDATE
So I went to the guys at Paladin Advanced Automotive (probably the only great Nissan shop in Vegas shop...) and after using and trashing 10 metal dremel-like drill bits they managed to make new holes for the toe bolts. It took them almost 2 hours for two holes, that's if you had a plasma cutter it would be way better :P lol
Therefore:
1- if you have RAS it's really really really hard to drill through the steel components, hard DIY, better bring it to a shop and pay like 100$-150$, saves you hours of work.
2- the DIY is definitively doable for non-RAS cars because they don't need extensive drilling, a dremel bit will do.
So now that i have my toebolts installed, the toe is not out of whack anymore and tires are not suffering (as bad) even with the drop.
So I went to the guys at Paladin Advanced Automotive (probably the only great Nissan shop in Vegas shop...) and after using and trashing 10 metal dremel-like drill bits they managed to make new holes for the toe bolts. It took them almost 2 hours for two holes, that's if you had a plasma cutter it would be way better :P lol
Therefore:
1- if you have RAS it's really really really hard to drill through the steel components, hard DIY, better bring it to a shop and pay like 100$-150$, saves you hours of work.
2- the DIY is definitively doable for non-RAS cars because they don't need extensive drilling, a dremel bit will do.
So now that i have my toebolts installed, the toe is not out of whack anymore and tires are not suffering (as bad) even with the drop.


