Plugs and my second window motor
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,922
Likes: 12
From: Belcamp, MD
Plugs and my second window motor
So I replaced my plugs today with new NGK G-power samples. Funny story, I accidently ordered only 4, its been a while since I had a 6-cylinder so I had to order more obviously.
In short everything went well. I was a little skeptical going into it due to all of the oil leak issues with the valve cover gaskets, but everything was good and dry. I did the plug change at 74-k miles instead of the suggested 100-k. They were def on the burnt side and the car seems to be enjoying the spark, it is definitly smooth and a tad more responsive. Job was easy, but a wire tuck would make quicker work of it next time around...might have to look into that someday.
The other part I replaced was my second driver's side window motor (6-months since the last one). This new one was noticeably more quiet than the other it replaced, hopefully it last a little longer. Just not sure what causes these to go up. Moisture? Heat? Planet alignment? Going second time around, the job was much easier than the first as well. Goodnews is, I bought both units from RockAuto.com, so this second one was free as soon as I return the original.
Sorry for the lack luster pictures:
Next up, new slotted rotors and stop-tech street pads, maybe this sunday.
In short everything went well. I was a little skeptical going into it due to all of the oil leak issues with the valve cover gaskets, but everything was good and dry. I did the plug change at 74-k miles instead of the suggested 100-k. They were def on the burnt side and the car seems to be enjoying the spark, it is definitly smooth and a tad more responsive. Job was easy, but a wire tuck would make quicker work of it next time around...might have to look into that someday.
The other part I replaced was my second driver's side window motor (6-months since the last one). This new one was noticeably more quiet than the other it replaced, hopefully it last a little longer. Just not sure what causes these to go up. Moisture? Heat? Planet alignment? Going second time around, the job was much easier than the first as well. Goodnews is, I bought both units from RockAuto.com, so this second one was free as soon as I return the original.
Sorry for the lack luster pictures:
Next up, new slotted rotors and stop-tech street pads, maybe this sunday.
Last edited by idrive_MD; Mar 27, 2010 at 04:35 AM.
Hey man, I had window problems as well. I repeatedly had to clean it since it would stop working like every two months. I did a different way of cleaning this last time, it's been a good 6 months now without it acting up.
Anyway, this time, instead of just a blow gun and wiping away some of the carbon build-up, I used some non-residue electronic cleaner...that stuff they said to use on the MAF sensor...I sprayed the h3ll out of it. I practically sprayed, let the gunk drip out, spray it again, drip, spray, dip, until it was practically clear drippings. So far so good, the window works great.
Anyway, this time, instead of just a blow gun and wiping away some of the carbon build-up, I used some non-residue electronic cleaner...that stuff they said to use on the MAF sensor...I sprayed the h3ll out of it. I practically sprayed, let the gunk drip out, spray it again, drip, spray, dip, until it was practically clear drippings. So far so good, the window works great.
there's the metal housing cover that you can remove three philips screw. That will expose the motor. Then turn/pull that motor out and that exposes the motor brushes so you can spray in every nook and cranny. You can spray the motor as well.
But yeah, that housing has poor ventilation that carbon builds up so easily inside causing poor contact from the motor brushes to the motor itself, making it seem like a completely dead window motor.
pulled from this thread..
https://g35driver.com/forums/body-in...ml#post3040260
He used a little alcohol and Qtips on the contact points but I used that electronic cleaner from radioshack so i can basically "flush" the whole d@mn thing....after sanding and wiping off the caked on build-up.
But yeah, that housing has poor ventilation that carbon builds up so easily inside causing poor contact from the motor brushes to the motor itself, making it seem like a completely dead window motor.
pulled from this thread..
https://g35driver.com/forums/body-in...ml#post3040260
He used a little alcohol and Qtips on the contact points but I used that electronic cleaner from radioshack so i can basically "flush" the whole d@mn thing....after sanding and wiping off the caked on build-up.
...One thing I have seen and read about around the forum is that sometimes your window motor may not be bad...there is just alot of carbon build-up preventing your window electricity to make contact between the copper...anyways with that being said I have alittle instruction on how to clean that portion.
First off you remove the 3 bolts on the top side of the window motor. by the way this metal top is a magnet.
once the screws are removed you should be able to pull out the internal part of the motor and see this. you can then pull out the whole metal peice. In these 2 pics you see in the first pic the carbon build-up around the copper.
Before cleaning:
this is the inside of the motor itself.
This is after cleaning the motor with rubbing alcohol and que-tips as well as using a toothpick in between the spaces of the copper.
Once cleaned install the metal door frame by bolting back up a view bolts around the metal frame. Ensure that you have bolted the window motor back in place and the window regulators back in place to test. I would advise to do this before putting the whole door back together. If the window functions better than proceed with installing all the parts following the procedures above. Note to yourself that you just saved $200.00. If the motor did not repair itself go back up to the instructions that you skipped over to get to the cleaning part and proceed with removing the (BAD Window MOTOR) and installing the new one you pick up.
Hope this helps
UPDATE: 3/15/2010
Additonal Video for those that like to watch a video. (courtesy of bythabay)
http://infinitihelp.com/diy/gcoupe/p..._procedure.htm
First off you remove the 3 bolts on the top side of the window motor. by the way this metal top is a magnet.
once the screws are removed you should be able to pull out the internal part of the motor and see this. you can then pull out the whole metal peice. In these 2 pics you see in the first pic the carbon build-up around the copper.
Before cleaning:
this is the inside of the motor itself.
This is after cleaning the motor with rubbing alcohol and que-tips as well as using a toothpick in between the spaces of the copper.
Once cleaned install the metal door frame by bolting back up a view bolts around the metal frame. Ensure that you have bolted the window motor back in place and the window regulators back in place to test. I would advise to do this before putting the whole door back together. If the window functions better than proceed with installing all the parts following the procedures above. Note to yourself that you just saved $200.00. If the motor did not repair itself go back up to the instructions that you skipped over to get to the cleaning part and proceed with removing the (BAD Window MOTOR) and installing the new one you pick up.
Hope this helps
UPDATE: 3/15/2010
Additonal Video for those that like to watch a video. (courtesy of bythabay)
http://infinitihelp.com/diy/gcoupe/p..._procedure.htm
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,922
Likes: 12
From: Belcamp, MD
thanks for the tip, I will definitely give that a shot next time. Even though I'm getting my replacement for free, its still a hassel to wait for the replacement and the refund.
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