Best plenum spacer??
All you need for your 5AT '06 is MotorDynes 5/16" Spacer ISO, make sure you get the copper gasket since you live in a warm climate. It does a better job of separating the lower plenum from the heat of the engine block, well worth the extra $40....
800-913-3130 ask for Tony @ Riverside Infiniti
Gary
800-913-3130 ask for Tony @ Riverside InfinitiGary
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All you need for your 5AT '06 is MotorDynes 5/16" Spacer ISO, make sure you get the copper gasket since you live in a warm climate. It does a better job of separating the lower plenum from the heat of the engine block, well worth the extra $40....
800-913-3130 ask for Tony @ Riverside Infiniti
Gary
800-913-3130 ask for Tony @ Riverside InfinitiGary
What you want is the ISO Thermal package, which has the spacer, the Aramid gasket, and a Coolant Control Valve (CCV) that allows you to shut off all heat going to the throttle body and upper plenum. It's designed for climates where temps stay above 45 or 50 degrees. You can always turn the flow back on if it ever gets colder than that, but in Tampa you're maybe talking about a few days a year at most.
Basic: Spacer only.
ISO Thermal: Spacer, Aramid gasket, and CCV. (my recommendation)
Copper ISO Thermal: Spacer, Aramid gasket, and Copper TB unit.
The best setup isn't actually available, and is a combination of the last 2. You have to order the CCV separately to get it. With that setup, the Copper TB unit keeps your throttle body warm in the winter while isolating the upper plenum, allowing it to stay cool. Adding the CCV allows you to run everything unheated during warm weather. You get the best of both options. I'm in the process of going this route with my setup.
^ That's kinda pointless... although copper has a high thermal conductivity**, it doesn't hold much heat, nor does it hold heat for too long. On hot days, the warm coolant shouldn't heat up the copper plating and throttle body more than the ambient temps already do. Copper and preferably silver is used in cooling systems for computers for those reasons... in case you missed it, they have high thermal conductivity, but they don't retain the heat.
** (don't mix that up with thermal conductance - the temps of the surface)
** (don't mix that up with thermal conductance - the temps of the surface)
Last edited by dofu; Apr 20, 2010 at 03:12 AM.
What's kinda pointless? I'm aware that copper has a fairly low thermal mass and high thermal conductivity, but that heat's gotta go somewhere, and where it goes is the throttle body. I'd say at best, your TB temp will be the same as ambient, but only when the ambient is already pretty high (which you agree with). At worst, your TB temp will be much higher than ambient, and that's not an optimal setup. There's pretty much no scenario with ambient temps above 50 where you're better off having a heated TB. In fact, with ambients between 50 and 85 or so, you're worse off having a heated TB, so why not put in a CCV? The only time a heated TB is better is when it's below 45-50 or above maybe 120, but then it's actually cooling the TB, and at 120, you've got bigger problems than what your intake temps are.
You may think it's pointless, but the combination I described is a better setup than either of the upgrade options they offer. Besides, we're talking about a CCV that costs maybe $7-$8 in parts to build yourself.
You may think it's pointless, but the combination I described is a better setup than either of the upgrade options they offer. Besides, we're talking about a CCV that costs maybe $7-$8 in parts to build yourself.
The best setup isn't actually available, and is a combination of the last 2. You have to order the CCV separately to get it. With that setup, the Copper TB unit keeps your throttle body warm in the winter while isolating the upper plenum, allowing it to stay cool. Adding the CCV allows you to run everything unheated during warm weather. You get the best of both options. I'm in the process of going this route with my setup.

Gary







