yeh, I want a couple more MPG too. it gets what it gets in mileage. you actually believe that **** on the window. you drive slow, save your precious pennies, die at 76.2 never hitting the rev limiter. must me that mid-west mentality. we have fun here on the east coast. anybody here not living in CHI really wanna mod your G for better mileage? You probably hate payin for premium gas too.

 

Z-tube and K&N air filter got me to 390 miles a tank !

 

Nuballer here is just a few suggestion to improve gas mileage.

http://www.infinitihelp.com/Ownershi...20Infiniti.htm

 

Great link! I better start looking for better ways to work.

 

Hey Evo,

Remind everyone what you DO again? Who pays your bills? What do you drive?

 

nuballer, did you read at the bottom, if you lose 100 lbs. you gain 1/10 of 1/100th times pi worth of mileage.

 

the whiner. self confessed right? you confess you're a whiner. you should change that pal. you probably can't even throw a football.

 

your answers Wrah 1.College student 2. Dad 3. 2003 Lancer Evolution, so what. you wanna piece?

 

Can we get a warning/ban for I_Got_EVO? As evidenced by his post history - and this thread in particular - most of what he has to say is trash...

This is why I don't visit this site often anymore. Because the mods are way too forgiving, a simple thread like this one is ruined every few days by someone like I_Got_EVO.

 

****vak- get rid of your G and shooo

 

I_Got_EVO:

I just read this thread and your posts. Consider yourself on probation. Keep your posts civil.

Thanks.

 

Let's stay on topic here gentlemen. There are some good responses here, keep 'em coming.

The basics are
-state of tune/modifications
-driving style
-weight reduction

G.

 

The greatest effect on gas mileage is how much air the motor is sucking in. The amount of gas injected is based on how much air goes into the motor. The amount of air the motor sucks in based on load. If you need 100 lb-ft of torque at the wheels to keep your car moving at a steady rate then the motor has to take in enough air to produce that much torque. Increasing the VE through mods, reduces pumping losses. A slight gas mileage increase may result, but it wil be very minor. The car still requires the same loads to driver the car. The increase in VE will be slight with most bolt ons and may only occur at some RPM's and may actually decrease at others. And there are plenty of other parasitic losses that also bog the motor down, so increasing VE doesn't have a profound effect on gas mileage. Keep in mind the products that generally increase VE are the ones designed to help flow more air thereby allowing more air and thus more fuel to make more power. The tendency of people who use these types of mods are the same ones that like to mash the gas pedal down. chances are these people will never realize a gain in mpg because they are burning more of it during WOT.

I'd probably focus more on increasing thermal efficiency of the combustion process for any real gains in mpg. Ignition advance and compression ratios are the biggest factors here. Unfortunately, we are limited by the gasoline that is available to us. But optimizing these for the gas you use will probably net a more noticable increase on mpg. However, don't expect anything significant. The car still requires the same amount of torque to produce the torque needed to keep the car going.

And of course as others have said, changing you driving habits can help. I for one do not choose this route. I didn't buy this car for it's gas mileage.

 

CKwik,

The impression I had when it was previously suggested to do all the VE mods was not that VE alone is all too helpful, but rather what it does to the F/A ratio.

If the engine was to rack up several VE mods it generally causes it to run lean (~12.5 to 15) and strech the gas supply a bit. Changing the A/F ratio a little more towards 14 will help the milage.

Detonation becomes more of a possibility but cold weather and good gas will help mitigate this.

During hot summer days it's time to bring the F/A back down.

On my car for example I found the OEM air intake box has very low pressure drop. Infact it was almost the same as my Stillen CAI but the difference between the two is that the stillen tweaks the MAF flow calibration very slightly causing a slightly leaner running engine. This is probably how Stillen claims it produces 10HP. It simply runs leaner.

Once I figured this out (last summer) I put my stock box back on. It gets very hot here in SoCal (85'-105' degF) and I just didn't want to subject my engine to lean conditions, heat and the possibility of pinging. But now that the winter weather is so much cooler (40'-75' degF) I have the Stillen CAI back on. I havn't bothered to rigorously measure gas milage but its gained about 1.5 mpg.

I'm with you, paying high gas prices may be a drag but I still have a heavy metal foot.

 

VE changes should have little change on the A/F ratio. Cars with Mass Airflow sensors can adapt to changes in VE better than those that measure Manifold pressure. Particularly at WOT, if Nissan used a similar tuning style as they used to where WOT ignores the O2 sensor and runs on temp and MAF signals for fuel. During closed loop operation of the O2, the ECU will constantly be adjusting the fuel delivery to try and achieve it's A/F ratio goal for the given load/RPM.

And based on what I said above, I would have to question Stillen's claim. I ran a Greddy E-Manage on my Turbo 240sx and it constantly fought with my ECU as the ECU would try to dial out any extra fuel during closed loop operation.