Hey all,

2004 6MT 67,000 miles

I did some searching but I didn't come up with a thread that had what I was looking for on this:

I know I need to replace my clutch pressure plate, I'm just having problems starting the car and I know it is not the battery, starter or ignition. It is definitely the clutch contact point. Here is the question, what parts do I need to install at the same time as the clutch pressure plate? I'm not having any other clutch related issues. No slipping, no shifting issues. Clutch otherwise seems tight. As far as I can, tell it just the starting issue. I doubt I will DIY, but I want to buy the parts and work with a local mechanic I know for installation.

For example, I am pretty sure that I don't need the flywheel, but I don't know whether I need to get the bearings, sleeve or fork. Any advice here would be much appreciated.

Random Extra Q's:

1. I have done a lot of research on the door actuators on this forum . . . anyone have a problem with me ordering the OEM parts on line for about $100? Am I missing anything here?

2. Any advice on replacement struts? This is almost a vanity repair for me -- I could probably go another 12-15K before needing new struts, but if I am going to need them before I sell the car I might as well enjoy them for a while.

3. Has anyone had to replace the wiper arms? I think I can fix this issue, but wanted to see if anyone has thoughts on this. The wiper fluid won't spray anymore. The diagnosis was get new wiper arms . . . but I think I can just use wire to clean out the nozzles. Anyonw have experience with that? The thought is the pump is still fine, just the arms are bad. I'm not convinced that the arms (or clogged nozzles) are the issue, but it is as good a place as any to start.

4. Its 2004 6MT, I will take any suggestions for other improvements as well.

thanks!

 

See above in red. HTH

 

Blue Dream's explanation for your clutch makes a lot more sense than the pressure plate needing to be replaced. But I wanted to add, in the event that you did crack the tranny open, it only makes since to replace the entire cluth since you're already there...

 

Guys, thanks for very much for this really useful information -- especially the clutch interlock switch. You are right, I obviously want to start there! I search by google and on the forum -- how do you find the part # for that piece?

Thanks re the struts as well.

On the wipers -- I tried out what you suggested, but I'm sure I've isolated the issue. Fluid does come out. Now, is it supposed to jet out -- like shoot out a couple feet? It is projecting out, but only say 2-5 inches. I can definitely hear the pump, obviously. I used a thin wire (maybe too thin to clean the nozzles and I got a very weak return of spray action. I'm still not sure if there is a partial obstruction in the line, a failing pump or if the nozzles are still partially clogged. Thoughts?

 

It took me a while, but I finally found the part. The part may be called:

1) clutch interlock switch
2) clutch pedal ignition lock switch
3) clutch switch interruptor

I found it at AutoZone -- Duralast JA4396 for $15
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...artNumber=true

Note, the 6MT actually has two of these switches, one at the "top" or "resting" position of the clutch and one at the "bottom" or "depressed" end of the clutch. The color of the plastic shoe is the indicator and make a big difference. The brown plastic shoe is for he top position and the white plastic shoe is for the bottom.

I replaced the bottom one since I was having trouble starting the car. Not sure yet if I will need to replace the top. The top one has a relay circuit that cuts off cruise control when you push down on the clutch (like pushig down on the brake). It took a while to over come the confusion because both of these parts come up as compatible with the G35, so you have to know which one you need. And trust me, part numbers are not going to help here - at least far as I was able to find.

I've got the new one installed and so far so good. Its a very difficult spot to work in, but a very easily install once you have contorted your body and worked out the wire harness.

I'm going to repost under a better title for people to find more easily.

Again, Blue Dream and Janitor, thanks for your replies!

 

Before you BUY an switch, try this: Bend the tab that contacts the switch just a bit closer with a crecent wrench. It doesn't take much. Mine is working fine now.

 

Texasscout raises an excellent point -- before I swapped out my switch I confirmed that the clutch pedal was making full solid contact with the switch and pushing the button down all the way. Especially if your issue is intermittent, like mine was, its going to be hard to tell if it just a contact issue or if the switch is going. But Texasscout is right, first start by making sure its a solid contact (and go ahead and move your seat up a hair to make sure you have the clutch going all the way down). The way I checked was getting down there with a flashlight and pushing the clutch down by hand (its stiff) to observe the contact. There are a couple things that could go wrong with a perfectly good switch:

1) there is supposed to be a rubber foot on the back of the clutch pedal that makes contact with the switch. Is it there? Is it damaged? If it is gone, I would improvise something.

2) Like Texasscout says, there is flex and torque in the metal arm holding the switch, that can move, so it torque it up and away from the firewall (counter clockwise with a cresent wrench) to see if that gets you better contact.

3) the swith gets threaded in and has a nut that stops how far it gets threaded in. Has it unthreaded itself half a turn? Does it just needed to get threaded in a little further?

So note all of above, but remember, we are talking about a $15 switch here, so the downside is pretty limited to changing it out.