FYI: 6MT clutch pedal ignition lock switch (will your car not start?)
FYI: 6MT clutch pedal ignition lock switch (will your car not start?)
Hey all,
Blue Dream helped me diagnos a problem I was having with my 2004 6MT not starting -- I knew it was something with the clutch pedal, but he helped me figure out that its a small little swith at the bottom of the clutch pedal up against the firewall.
Thing is though - finding the part was not easy, so this thread has some information on that. It took me a while, but I finally found the part. The part may be called:
1) clutch interlock switch
2) clutch pedal ignition lock switch (this is how I found it)
3) clutch switch interruptor
I found it at AutoZone -- Duralast JA4396 for $15
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...artNumber=true
Note, the 6MT actually has two of these switches, one at the "top" or "resting" position of the clutch and one at the "bottom" or "depressed" end of the clutch. The color of the plastic shoe is the indicator and make a big difference. The brown plastic shoe is for he top position and the white plastic shoe is for the bottom.
I replaced the bottom one (white plastic) since I was having trouble starting the car. Not sure yet if I will need to replace the top. The top one has a relay circuit that cuts off cruise control when you push down on the clutch (like pushig down on the brake). It took a while to over come the confusion because both of these parts come up as compatible with the G35, so you have to know which one you need. And trust me, part numbers are not going to help here - at least far as I was able to find.
I've got the new one installed and so far so good. Its a very difficult spot to work in, but a very easily install once you have contorted your body and worked out the wire harness.
Blue Dream helped me diagnos a problem I was having with my 2004 6MT not starting -- I knew it was something with the clutch pedal, but he helped me figure out that its a small little swith at the bottom of the clutch pedal up against the firewall.
Thing is though - finding the part was not easy, so this thread has some information on that. It took me a while, but I finally found the part. The part may be called:
1) clutch interlock switch
2) clutch pedal ignition lock switch (this is how I found it)
3) clutch switch interruptor
I found it at AutoZone -- Duralast JA4396 for $15
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...artNumber=true
Note, the 6MT actually has two of these switches, one at the "top" or "resting" position of the clutch and one at the "bottom" or "depressed" end of the clutch. The color of the plastic shoe is the indicator and make a big difference. The brown plastic shoe is for he top position and the white plastic shoe is for the bottom.
I replaced the bottom one (white plastic) since I was having trouble starting the car. Not sure yet if I will need to replace the top. The top one has a relay circuit that cuts off cruise control when you push down on the clutch (like pushig down on the brake). It took a while to over come the confusion because both of these parts come up as compatible with the G35, so you have to know which one you need. And trust me, part numbers are not going to help here - at least far as I was able to find.
I've got the new one installed and so far so good. Its a very difficult spot to work in, but a very easily install once you have contorted your body and worked out the wire harness.
Texasscout raises an excellent point -- before I swapped out my switch I confirmed that the clutch pedal was making full solid contact with the switch and pushing the button down all the way. Especially if your issue is intermittent, like mine was, its going to be hard to tell if it just a contact issue or if the switch is going. But Texasscout is right, first start by making sure its a solid contact (and go ahead and move your seat up a hair to make sure you have the clutch going all the way down). The way I checked was getting down there with a flashlight and pushing the clutch down by hand (its stiff) to observe the contact. There are a couple things that could go wrong with a perfectly good switch:
1) there is supposed to be a rubber foot on the back of the clutch pedal that makes contact with the switch. Is it there? Is it damaged? If it is gone, I would improvise something.
2) Like Texasscout says, there is flex and torque in the metal arm holding the switch, that can move, so it torque it up and away from the firewall (counter clockwise with a cresent wrench) to see if that gets you better contact.
3) the swith gets threaded in and has a nut that stops how far it gets threaded in. Has it unthreaded itself half a turn? Does it just needed to get threaded in a little further?
So note all of the above, but remember, we are talking about a $15 switch here, so the downside is pretty limited to changing it out.
1) there is supposed to be a rubber foot on the back of the clutch pedal that makes contact with the switch. Is it there? Is it damaged? If it is gone, I would improvise something.
2) Like Texasscout says, there is flex and torque in the metal arm holding the switch, that can move, so it torque it up and away from the firewall (counter clockwise with a cresent wrench) to see if that gets you better contact.
3) the swith gets threaded in and has a nut that stops how far it gets threaded in. Has it unthreaded itself half a turn? Does it just needed to get threaded in a little further?
So note all of the above, but remember, we are talking about a $15 switch here, so the downside is pretty limited to changing it out.
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Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 25
Likes: 2
From: Redondo Beach CA
Texasscout raises an excellent point -- before I swapped out my switch I confirmed that the clutch pedal was making full solid contact with the switch and pushing the button down all the way. Especially if your issue is intermittent, like mine was, its going to be hard to tell if it just a contact issue or if the switch is going. But Texasscout is right, first start by making sure its a solid contact (and go ahead and move your seat up a hair to make sure you have the clutch going all the way down). The way I checked was getting down there with a flashlight and pushing the clutch down by hand (its stiff) to observe the contact. There are a couple things that could go wrong with a perfectly good switch:
1) there is supposed to be a rubber foot on the back of the clutch pedal that makes contact with the switch. Is it there? Is it damaged? If it is gone, I would improvise something.
2) Like Texasscout says, there is flex and torque in the metal arm holding the switch, that can move, so it torque it up and away from the firewall (counter clockwise with a cresent wrench) to see if that gets you better contact.
3) the swith gets threaded in and has a nut that stops how far it gets threaded in. Has it unthreaded itself half a turn? Does it just needed to get threaded in a little further?
So note all of the above, but remember, we are talking about a $15 switch here, so the downside is pretty limited to changing it out.
1) there is supposed to be a rubber foot on the back of the clutch pedal that makes contact with the switch. Is it there? Is it damaged? If it is gone, I would improvise something.
2) Like Texasscout says, there is flex and torque in the metal arm holding the switch, that can move, so it torque it up and away from the firewall (counter clockwise with a cresent wrench) to see if that gets you better contact.
3) the swith gets threaded in and has a nut that stops how far it gets threaded in. Has it unthreaded itself half a turn? Does it just needed to get threaded in a little further?
So note all of the above, but remember, we are talking about a $15 switch here, so the downside is pretty limited to changing it out.
grrr this is frustrating!!
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