G35 Coupe V35 2003 - 07 Discussion about the 1st Generation V35 G35 Coupe

Car will not start (sometimes)

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Old 07-30-2012, 12:03 PM
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Car will not start (sometimes)

So it seems I have another problem with the G (2005 g35 coupe 6MT). I keep thinking I've fixed the issue but then it comes back so I feel like I haven't actually fixed anything.

When I turn the key to On (without starting the car) and I know it's going to start, this is what the dash looks like:



I can also hear the gas moving ready to be ignited as well as a buzzing sound. I also hear two knocks initially.

When I turn the key to On (without starting the car) and I know it's not going to start, this is what the dash looks like:



In this scenario, I don't hear the gas moving or the buzzing sound. I also don't hear the knocks.

When I do actually turn the key fully to actually start the car I just hear a single click and a single click when I release the key from the fully turned position. It doesn't really sound like the starter is clicking though.

So far I've replaced the clutch safety switch (first I bypassed it then I just replaced it altogether).

I've replaced the clamp for the negative battery terminal since it was a little loose.

I've taken out the starter and gotten it tested and I tested it myself (only connected it to a battery to see if it worked). I also cleaned the connections to the starter itself.

The battery itself was supplying 12.5V when the car was off for about 2 days. Everything also works in the car regardless of whether it's going to turn on or not (windows/lights/headlights/stereo/etc).

I checked most of the grounding connections and I noticed one of them was not connected on one end (this is not my car):



In this picture the cable that was disconnected was the end on the top right (blue cable).

After reconnecting the cable I thought that was the problem but the car didn't start again this morning.



I guess the weirdest part of all of this is if I leave the car for a little while (seems like the time is random) it will eventually start. I can literally just go to work and come back and the car will start without me having done anything to make it start. Usually once the car starts working it keeps working for a while. Once it stops working, it usually doesn't turn on unless i just let it sit for a little bit.

This is my second car so I'm still a noob. Any help would be appreciated since this problem is driving me nuts.
 
  #2  
Old 07-30-2012, 12:49 PM
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My Mercedes did something similar, and it came down to the cam position sensor. The other thing I would recommend would be to take off the grounding kit.
 
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Old 07-30-2012, 07:41 PM
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hmm cam position senser is a good answer here.
 
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Old 07-31-2012, 10:59 AM
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Hmm... is there a way I can diagnose the cam position sensor being the issue?

Also I forgot to add, but when the car does start it works perfectly fine and it usually starts right away (I don't need to sit there while hearing the starter crank for a while before starting).

When it doesn't start it sounds almost like as if I hadn't pushed the clutch down (there is no starter cranking).

Thanks for the replies.
 
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Old 07-31-2012, 11:17 AM
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Bad cam or crank position sensors usually trigger hard starts and stalling on Nissans, not a tempermental car that will only start once in a while.. The easiest way to check if a cam sensor is going out is (if you're a DIY-er) to go to AutoZone, buy a front and rear bank cam sensor (should run about $40 each), and install them one at a time. If it fixes your issue, you know that cam sensor was faulty or bad. If not, clean both of the AutoZone sensors up and take them back.

Seeing the VDC Off and ABS lights on could indicate a few different malfunctions. Have you run a scanner on your car to make sure that there aren't any pending codes stored in the ECU?
 
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Old 08-02-2012, 05:25 PM
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So sounds like your battery is fine, your starter is tested, terminals are okay, new neutral safety switch is also not a problem. Your symptoms don't necessarily point to bad cam sensors.

I would check if the solenoid is getting power, all the wiring including the ground (ground can be tested for continuity).

1) Does anyone have a schematic for our cars? It would make diagnosing electrical for the user easier.

Originally Posted by speedracerg35 View Post
The other thing I would recommend would be to take off the grounding kit.
2) Are the grounding kits for our cars known to have issues?
 
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Old 08-02-2012, 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr. Brett View Post
Bad cam or crank position sensors usually trigger hard starts and stalling on Nissans, not a tempermental car that will only start once in a while.. The easiest way to check if a cam sensor is going out is (if you're a DIY-er) to go to AutoZone, buy a front and rear bank cam sensor (should run about $40 each), and install them one at a time. If it fixes your issue, you know that cam sensor was faulty or bad. If not, clean both of the AutoZone sensors up and take them back.

Seeing the VDC Off and ABS lights on could indicate a few different malfunctions. Have you run a scanner on your car to make sure that there aren't any pending codes stored in the ECU?
When the cam positioning sensors went out on my car last year(05 6mt) the car would crank like it was trying to start but would either refuse to finally turn over or I would give up turn it all the way off and try again. OP has the car stalled randomly while driving. No studder or anything just powered off?
 
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Old 08-13-2012, 01:26 AM
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Originally Posted by cb6speed View Post
When the cam positioning sensors went out on my car last year(05 6mt) the car would crank like it was trying to start but would either refuse to finally turn over or I would give up turn it all the way off and try again. OP has the car stalled randomly while driving. No studder or anything just powered off?
Sorry for the late reply. I work full time and I'm taking some courses so I haven't had a lot of time recently.

No, the car hasn't stalled randomly while driving.

One thing I want to point out is that when the car doesn't start I never hear the fuel pump prime the fuel for ignition. This combined with the lights that pop up on the dash allow me to know that the car will not start before I actually attempt to start it.

The other thing with this is that the starter never actually clicks when I attempt to start the car either (assuming it's not going to start). I feel like that if it were the fuel pump or something, the starter would still at least click.
 
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Old 08-22-2012, 10:15 PM
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I have now replaced the battery and the issue is still present
 
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Old 08-23-2012, 12:15 AM
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It sort of sounds like an ECU issue...

The fact that you don't hear the fuel pump relay engage, or the starter click is odd...
 
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Old 08-24-2012, 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr. Brett View Post
It sort of sounds like an ECU issue...

The fact that you don't hear the fuel pump relay engage, or the starter click is odd...
Another issue just occurred yesterday. I was driving on the highway during rush hour with the AC on and the car initially popped up the ABS light. Then the remaining lights (the SES and VDC off light within 3 seconds, the same lights as I posted in my initial post) came on as well. I tried to pop it into second and possibly get the car started since it was still rolling but that just caused the car to slow down and eventually come to a stop. I tried starting the car but it didn't start. Eventually had to get it towed since I was in the middle lane. This is the first time that the car has stopped while driving.

Also, when the car was shut off, when I tried to turn it on again, I had the same issue as I normally do. The car did not crank or anything.
 

Last edited by theredphoenix; 08-24-2012 at 02:30 PM. Reason: added info
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Old 08-29-2012, 09:01 PM
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Have you found a solution to this issue. I'm having very similar issues.
 
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Old 08-30-2012, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by deasons22 View Post
Have you found a solution to this issue. I'm having very similar issues.
nope, nothing yet. I'm going to take my car to the dealership next tuesday since that's when the foreman is supposed to be in. I went in yesterday but they said they wouldn't be able to diagnose the issue unless the car didn't start and recently it's been starting almost all of the time.
 
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Old 08-30-2012, 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by theredphoenix View Post
nope, nothing yet. I'm going to take my car to the dealership next tuesday since that's when the foreman is supposed to be in. I went in yesterday but they said they wouldn't be able to diagnose the issue unless the car didn't start and recently it's been starting almost all of the time.
Got ya, well that's good kinda at least its starting. It really seems like something little is stooping this from starting. i'm probably going to take mine to the shop here in the next couple days if i can't figure it out. thanks for the reply
 
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Old 09-20-2012, 11:12 PM
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Just thought I'd update this topic. Ended up taking it to the dealership again a few days after the first time and they determined it was the IPDM. They quoted me at like 855 for the part and 105 (the price of 1 hour of labour) for installation.


EDIT: In my previous post I said I was going to go in the following tuesday. That tuesday I did end up going and they called me back and gave me some stupid answers as to why they thought the car was having these issues (they really thought it was because the positive battery terminal cable connection was a little loose, which is funny because I had changed the battery like 3 times already and knew it definitely was not the battery or those connections).

They told me to come back if the car didn't start and the next day it didn't start. I ended up being stranded at a friends house and had to sleep over and luckily the car started in the morning. Took it back to the dealership and this time they said it was the IPDM. I haven't gone back to them, but I did end up taking out the IPDM myself and it looked like it was in pretty bad shape.
 

Last edited by theredphoenix; 09-20-2012 at 11:41 PM.

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